Where is the fuse for the under hood lights - Hotpoint RVM1635 Microwave Oven

Something has a dead short to earth. The only way to find is to disassemble and look for chaffed wires, and test the fan itself with a multimeter.

I did not know Magic Chef made the Ford Fairlane!! Please post on the automotive area. It has fuses under the dash and under the hood.

I believe this information can help you. It was got from Internet:
Most fuse boxes are located under the steering wheel of a vehicle but on some cars it can be in the glove box or under the glovebox but they may have hid it under the seat. On the 1996 Grand Caravan ES there are two fusebox locations.One is under the dash on the drivers side, you will need to remove the sound deadening panely by rotating two black plastic screws counter-clockwise. After removing the panel the fuse box is in plain sight. The other fuse box is under the hood, between the battery and the left fender. You will need to press the release at the rear of the cover and lift the hinged cover forward. This fuse box contains many relays as well as fuses. Be sure to replace the cover and ensure that it snaps down securely to prevent dirt and moisture from entering the fuse block.

I would say you replaced a good hood thermostat (or "TCO" / thermal cutout) with a new thermostat of the wrong type.
The oven cavity TCO and the magnetron TCO will read zero ohms continuity when tested.
They are "normally closed" devices.
But the hood vent exhaust fan's TCO is a "normally open" TCO or thermostat, so it should read open or "infinity" on a continuity check.
If the temperature under the microwave gets too high, the hood TCO opens, which turns on the vent fan until it cools back down.
I would bet that only your fuse was blown.

see the next steps: God bless your use the common sense, NOT feared.
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.
see the block

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or stuck in "night light" mode. Sometimes this will similarly affect the fan operation or inside light, too.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

All Microwave ovens have a main fuse that is not accessible while the unit is mounted under a cabinet. Drop MW oven and replace the main fuse.

In addition to the fuse, the safety devices which will render the oven dead during a fault condition are the bottom TCO and the cavity TCO.

The TCOs (thermal cutouts) have thick black wires connected to them, and they should both read "closed" or zero ohms when you do a continuity check on them.

Do not confuse the hood TCO, which has thinner red and blue wires connected to it and which are supposed to normally read "open" or infinity. If the hood TCO were bad, the hood vent exhaust fan would run all the time.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The hood fan thermal cutout is probably not bad. It should read normally open, unlike the others, which would read normally closed.

What probably blew the fuse was a blown high voltage rectifier diode.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

You can order the diode from Encompass here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Yes, is probably the fuse. I have fixed several microwaves with this problem and the fuse is almost always located just inside where the power cord enters the unit. Just remove the skin (usually screws on the back and BOTTOM also) test the fuse with a micro meter. If no contenuity, replace with same size, type and rated fuse. Most microwaves are 20amp fuse.