Dishwashers Logo

Related Topics:

Posted on Jul 16, 2017

Why does the unresetable bi-metal heat sensor in the dishwasher circuit board continue to pop out midway through the washing cycle even after I replaced it with a new one?

Dishwasher has worked great since last year when I replaced the entire circuit board. Recently the unresetable bi-metal heat sensor popped out so I replaced it, but the new one did the same thing after only a cycle or two. I was able to reset the switch by drilling a small hole in the back and inserting a paper clip to pop the strip back the other way again, but it only worked for two cycles and then popped out again.

  • alphafox Feb 06, 2015

    When the original unresetable bi-metal heat sensor popped I replaced it. That worked for a cycle or two, but then the new one popped out. What would cause it to do that? did I just get a bad replacement, or is something else overheating and causing it to pop?

×

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 148 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2007

SOURCE: Can't cancel cycle without it starting

you have a few choices if the factory says that this is normal. try shutting off the breaker or unplugging the dishwasher. we use plugs when we install them to make removal easier. with the power down for a few moments, it may reset itself if its a solid state board. otherwise, let it run and then start it over again to do what you intended. its not a big problem if that is what you are stuck with for functionality. it is not a common need to reset, i would expect. check the manual too, you may need to hold the reset button for a few seconds or more.
good luck
mark

Ad

Anonymous

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2008

SOURCE: whirlpool dishwasher

fuse on control board.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Pops open during cycle

The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.

With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.

Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.

Anonymous

  • 43501 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2010

SOURCE: Dishwasher pops the circuit breaker

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you ti find out why the circuitbreaker is tripping.

Circuit Breaker Keeps Tripping
heatman101

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 04, 2010

SOURCE: snap on fitting no longer stays on faucett

go to www.searspartsdirect.com and you can search by your model number for the dishwasher or any other kenmore part. The schematics magnify as you mouse over them and then you can scroll down to see the matching part number. The part 3378117 is the whole hose assembly including the faucet coupler and the full length of the hoses. Notice that the part number 3378117 has been substituted with W10217197. When I Googled for "W10217197 dishwasher" there were a number of vendors selling that part including ApplianceZone.com selling it for $20 less than Sears and other vendors. Unfortunately the way the faucet coupler is crimped onto the hoses you have to replace the full length of hose [not just the coupler] but I have a problem that requires the whole hose. I've opened the cabinet up - which required a star headed driver - and from there it's just a matter of removing basic connectors inside the box.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
2answers

Wdf530. Why doesn't it heat water?

There is always the possibility that the replacement heating element is defective.
0helpful
1answer

What might cause a flashing PF code midway through a cycle? Circuit breaker is fine. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Stop trying to restart it! There is obviously a fault so check your manual. If not in there contact Manufacturer or service agent.
0helpful
1answer

Soap remains in dispenser after completed cycle and dishes are not clean

Hello laura.... there are three possible causes of the dispenser not opening:

1.Timer
On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary. 2. Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards. The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it. On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly. Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door. 3. Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly That said, one way around this is to simply add the soap or the soap tab into the dishwasher proper, not into the cup. Joe Thanks for choosing Fixya!
0helpful
1answer

Dispenser does not work

Hello there:
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary. Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards. The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it. On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly. Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door. Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly
0helpful
2answers

The soap dispenser on our BOSCH dishwasher, SHE4AM, won't open during washing cycles. Please help

Hi
Dishwashers use Bi-Metal strip to allow the dispenser to open/close. This strip when heat up causes the soap door spring to open up the dispenser. If this strip is not heated doesn't allow the door to open. The strip may not be getting 120V or maybe disconnected. Newer (plastic liner) Maytag dishwashers use a wax motor to open the soap dispenser. The plunger inside the wax motor slowly moves and pushes the plunger and door open. And, if this wax motor doesn't receive 120 volts, then it'll not work. Please check the voltage to the wax motor/Bi-metal strip; also inspect the connections to these. Hope this helps...

Daniel

0helpful
1answer

Soap dispenser will not open automatically in a wash cycle

Hello there:
Please follow thew following solutions i have provided below
The detergent cup doesn't open When the detergent cup or dispenser will not operate properly or doesn't open, check these:
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary. Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards. The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it. On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly. Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door. Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly
0helpful
1answer

I have a Kenmore Elite Dishwasher, Model # 665.13119K701 that is just over a year old. It does not cycle through the washing/rinsing/heated dry cycles. It continually runs in the ''washing'' mode. It only...

replace this:
Bi-metal Number:661663 20-30$ at sears parts direct
i had the same problem and this part is in the door part on the controll panel you can take it apart with the 6 screws i think on the door...
good luck let me know...
0helpful
1answer

When i choose normal wash and the cycle has been complete I open up the dishwasher and at that time the detergent pocket opens up and drips out the detergent. My glasses are all chalky and unclean

When the detergent cup doesn't open, check these:

Timer
Bi-metal switch or wax motor
Detergent cup, itself
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.

Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards.

The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it.

On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly.

Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.

Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly
Jul 16, 2009 • Dishwashers
0helpful
1answer

The place where u place the soap won't let all the soap out why

hello. i can help you.
When the detergent cup doesn't open, check these:

Timer
Bi-metal switch or wax motor
Detergent cup, itself
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.

Bi-metal switch or wax motor A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards.

The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it.

On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly.

Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.

Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly

The cycles times are too long If your dishwasher's cycle times are too long, check these:

Water pre-heating
Cycle not completing
Water pre-heating Your dishwasher may pre-heat the water. If so, and if the water entering the dishwasher is cool, the heater may take up to half an hour to heat the water.

To avoid the wait, increase the incoming water temperature before turning on the dishwasher. Do that by running the kitchen sink faucet until the water runs hot. Or increase the temperature of the hot water to the entire house at the hot water heater.

Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

Cycle not completing See "The cycle doesn't complete" section.



0helpful
1answer

Cycle stops, won't drain

This is either a bad timer or a bad heat sensor. On most cycles that call for the water to be heated it will pause the timer and continue washing/heating until the sensor is satisfied the water is hot enough. Try selecting a quick, delicate, or china cycle without heated rinse or dry. If it works this way the timer is fine but the sensor is bad. Sometimes cold water to the machine will cause this problem because the machine is not capable of totallly heating cold water. It is only designed to boost the temp. Make sure you run hot water at the sink before you start the machine.
Not finding what you are looking for?

82 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Dishwashers Experts

vince

Level 3 Expert

2530 Answers

Paul Carew

Level 3 Expert

3808 Answers

NOEL
NOEL

Level 3 Expert

8606 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Dishwasher Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...