After replacing Bearing, Compressor will pressurize to 30psi. It just runs without increasing pressure.

it has 2 gauges , one for tank pressure and the other is the regulator output. tank pressure is on left. The pop off is starting to release because is worn and should be replaced. if unit is only making 30 pounds on tank gauge you have other problems . If that is true personally i would replace it.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-c2006-type-compressor-parts-c-129_1662_16249.html

You can add freon without the compressor running. There is a pressure switch in the system that prevents the compressor from operating when the freon pressure is too low. Just add some freon and once the pressure increases, the AC clutch will engage.

do you have a pressure tank as part of your water heater and water pipes? if yes, check to make sure tank pressure matches your incoming water pressure from your municipal hook up

Check Valve in the tank where the air
enters from the tubing leaving the compressor

Call Campbell & get a new one
They are good to talk to on the phone
& you can order parts without all the internet hassle

Increase air pressure in tank to30 PSI.

probably a bad pressure switch or the wing nut on the bottom of the tank for draining the tank is open

there should be a pressure regulator on your compressor. sometimes the adjustment is covered by a plastic cap, remove the cap and use a flat screwdriver to turn the pressure regulating screw. clockwise for more pressure or counterclockwise to decrease the pressure. depending on the type of pressure regulator it should only take 2 to 4 complete turns to increase your pressure to 110-120 psi.

Hi, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. Will it come on at all? Check the outlet circuit breaker, if it comes on at all, check where the line comes form the pump to the tank, there got to be a leak, you may have to remove it in order to check under it. Check for a reset button next to the wire coming to the switch. Thanks for choosing FixYa...John

Your compressor is sold under various part #s depending on brand name. The link below is the breakdown for ac-0171.
http://www.devilbissparts.com/OilLubeStat%20PDF%20files/ac-0171.pdf. You will notice that there is no vent to release internal pressure. Most brands have a filler/dipstick which is also a vent. As the compressor wears there is a normal increase in crank pressure caused by pressure passing thru the rings. I have seen home made vents installed on the bearing cap. If you are creative you can make one yourself using the same cap or a metal cap (axel bearing cap) that fits the opening. A crankcase vent is a very simple device. A small hole to atmosphere with a bit of oil resistant foam behind to prevent oil from being blown out the hole. Works best when there is a vent tube about a couple of inches long to catch any oil and allowing it to run back down into crank. Remember that there is oil sloshing around inside the pump. Examine several brands of compressors for vent and try to recreate that on yours. One thing in common about vents is that they are usually located pretty high up above the crankshaft. You could also try lowering the cut-out pressure on your compressor to reduce back pressure. Good Luck on your repair.

The Aurora is a low pressure oil system. The only solution available at this time is to increase the oil weight. I went o straight 30W to solve the idle alarm issue. Some use 20W oil and that works too.
With 20W you will be at 80 to 90psi cold then drop to 20-30psi hot.
I first replaced the oil pressure gauge and it was worse. I put the original back in and it was better. Then went to 30W and all is fine.
Running it that way for a few years now.