I was fixing my keyboard key and putting everything back together again and now the keyboard will play but it isnt the same. There is a delay to the touch of the key. I must have done something wrong. I have a KORG Triton.

You may have turned down the volume internally.
Carry out a factory reset - Hold down top C key (highest note) whilst turning the keyboard on.
Hopefully this will rest everything and it will work again.

What driver do you want to install?

If this is a traditional keyboard (not laptop) or extremely fancy keyboard.

Try unplugging the keyboard. Then.

1. Take a butter knife and slide it into the crevice next to the "enter key".
2. Apply a small amount of pressure to pry the key upward.
3. With little effort the key should pop off or slide off.
4. Check the spot the key was for dirt, dust, food, etc. Clean it if you must. Make sure the actual key does not have anything stuck to the bottom of it.
5. Push the key back onto it's place on the keyboard.
6. Plug back in and see if that worked.

If this did not work, you may need to replace the keyboard OR you may want to make sure no viruses are playing an aweful trick on you.

DId you remove the plug from the input jack to turn the pedal off? If so then you may have a bad input jack.

Thisis hard to troubleshoot... The keyboard insynths are usually scanned as a matrix... If a disconnect diode has failed, then wrong notes can be triggered. There is USUALLY rows of the diodes on the circuit board where the keys hit. There are usually TWO contacts per key in order to sense key velocity. The lkey contacts are usually conductive rubber pills pressed against circuit traces under the keys. One sometimes needs to clean these contacts using 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q tips.
I would do further testing of ALL combinations of notes played together to see if possibly any others show up as that could point to a particular failure.

I just fixed my CDP 100 which had a similar problem - dropped and two keys not working up one end.
1. Lay keyboard upside down on soft surface. Under keyboard is plastic cover held on by 17 screws. Remove all these and lift cover away. The metal key ends are all revealed.
2. Locate the disloged keys. Carefully press them back into position - they will "click" into place. Make sure the corresponding key on the keyboard isn't stuck in an "up" position - you may have to remove the metal key part and replace it again while making sure the key is correctly seated.
3. Replace cover and screws.

Probably something has come loose inside if everything else is normal.

Disassemble the device carefully. Look for cables or wires that may be partially or totally disconnected. If there are connectors, "reseat" the connectors. (Take them apart, put them back together firmly but not too firmly.)

If there is still a problem and you have a meter and are able to operate the keyboard with the unit open, you can compare voltage readings of those keys with nearby keys at any points you can find related to the keys. Compare with both keys up and keys down.

On some keyboards, you can bridge the switch contacts with an unbent paper clip to make a connection as though a key had been pressed. If you are comfortable with this and if doing that makes those keys play, then you have a mechanical problem related to the keys. Check for snapped plastic, etc.

If this is the kind of organ with the wire sticking out of the key that makes contact with the bus bar to create the note you will have to make sure that key is operating the same as adjacent keys. The busbars have to be clean and the contact wires have to be clean. Sometimes when cleaning the wires they will spring out of place and not make contact with the appropriate bus bars. Check that key against the rest and see what you find. Hope this helps.

You are suffering from midi latency. There is a good article about this at www.thewhippinpost.co.uk/latency.htm There is also some good advice there.

This is a common problem with Yamaha keyboards. The problem is caused by worn-out rubber contacts in the keyboard assembly. In my old Clavinova CLP-500, there was one long rubber contact strip under the keys with two parallel strips of semiconductor material. The Clavinova circuitry determines key velocity by measuring the timing between when the key hits the first and second strips of semiconductor material. The harder you play a key, the less time it takes the key to hit the second semiconductor strip after hitting the first.
After years of playing the keyboard, the keys eventually cause tears in the semiconductor material and this messes up the timing measurement for key velocity. The only solution is to take the keyboard apart and replace the rubber contact strip with a new one.
I got rid of my CLP-500 four or five years ago and got a new CLP-170. The CLP-170 is now having exactly the same problem that the CLP-500 had. Yamaha has re-designed the rubber contacts in the CLP-170 so that there are now eight individual contact strips instead of one long one. The problem is essentially the same, though. You have to take the keyboard apart and replace the worn out rubber contacts.
Here are the part numbers for the rubber contacts that need to be replaced in the CLP-170: V8286600 Rubber Contact, 12 keys, D-C#   Qty. 6 V8286800 Rubber Contact, 11 keys, A-C#   Qty. 1 V8286700 Rubber Contact, 5 keys, D-C   Qty. 1
I suggest you also get a copy of the CLP-170 service manual, part number 001677. It has descriptions of all the steps necessary to take the thing apart and put it back together again. You'll also need a "rod" (which is just a long dowel), part number TX000670. Before you take the circuit boards off the keyboard assembly, you have to insert the dowel between the keys and the frame to keep the keys from falling back and getting in your way. A 5-foot long 1/4-inch dowel will probably work. (I haven't yet taken apart my CLP-170, and I don't have Yamaha's "rod," so I'm not sure if 1/4 inch is the right size or not. I'll report back here if it's not.)
Good luck, Howard