My 2007 crossfire 1000 does not have the power it did last year. Changed out secondary clutch, new plugs,checked power valves,new gas. Do not know what to do from here.

Hi, Bestwaytrans and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump.
24. Faulty pump relay or fuse.
25. Faulty ignition system relay.
26. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
27. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
28. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
29. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/987893-help-engine-turns-over-but-won-t-start.html
http://www.mediafire.com/file/lbs9ej75cinadd3/2007+Harley+Softail+Service+Manual.pdf
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/softail-deluxe-2007-owners-manual-66498
https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Duplicate question already answered

If the belt has been changed, the button ramps in the secondary clutch should have been checked. The secondary clutch has 3 ramps that tend to wear, and this will wear the clutch out if not replaced right away. To remove the secondary clutch (rear clutch) remove the clutch cover and belt. Remove the bolt from secondary clutch and pull clutch off. The clutch is on a splined shaft so a puller will not be necessary. To check the ramps inside the clutch, rotate the outer sheave clockwise while holding inner sheave stationary. You should be able to see the ramps, if not they have worn completely gone and the clutch will have to be disassembled. Check this and let me know what you find. I will be happy to assist if you need to disassemble the clutch, Daniel.

Fresh gas, check battery (free at Autozone), not a bad idea to get new spark plugs every year.

CHECK THE COMPRESSION IN THE ENGINE, CHECK THE DRIVE BELT ALIGNMENT, CHECK TRACK AND CHAIN TENSION AND THE SECONDARY AND PRIMARY CLUTCHES. THAN CHECK YOUR JACK SHAFT AND DRIVE SHAFT BEARINGS

Check the ground wire to the gas valve or the wire in the middle of the gas valve that says mv--pv, and that is a ground..

check comprsion. check valve clearance.

you better check for valve clearance.....and to be honest you're intake valve maybe to tight and kept open.....you will reajust it but this will last a ride or two...because maybe the mobdelium coating is done on the intake valve and it is getting tight all the time and kept open....put two new oem valve from honda and you will be back on the track....sometimes i also never rectify any angle on the seat of the valve, just put new one and go.....honda as getting better since 2007....more good quality of coating on the valve....if you bought new valve for an older model they will come with that upgraded and last longer.

my brain hurts the only thing i can say is either the spark plugs are cracked or gap is closed, or the dist.pick-up is faulty/cap. poss.a bent push-rod on 2&3 exhaust valves this would show good compression but valve never opens to release exhaust. pull v/c and watch rocker arms. good luck please let me know how it goes.

but now I see it isn't. Since then I have installed a new air filter new packing in the muffler new reeds. I cleaned the carborator and check to make sure the needles weren't defective. Also I checked the flow valves and they are free of debris. That's simple enough you either have your gas mixed wrong or there's a bad seal somewhere so check the gaskets that should take care of it.,,,