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The first thing that I would look at is the compressor relay. The relay gives extra windings in the motor, power to get the compressor up to speed. It is a small thing that carrys a heavy load. (MORE)
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Question edited for clarity, MAKER.
Question moved to Model Category.
Your fridge freezer has three fans.
The compressor evaporator fan cuts in and out as required to maintain temperature.
The fridge evaporator circulation fan runs to maintain an even temperature. It stops when to open the door and resumes when you close it and stops when the set temperature is reached as long as the compressor isn't running. If the compressor is running, the fan normally runs to prevent icing which happens slowly.
The freezer also has a fan, and that runs pretty much all the time unless target temperature is met and the compressor is not running. This fan runs when you open the door to stop the moist air from the room freezing on contact to the 0'F, -18'C evaporator fins. The fan keeps the air moving to deposit less frost.
It sounds like your is running normally except for the noise. Trace the noise and find it. The compressor fan has a Shark Paper fibre board cover and these often distort over time and touch the fan blades. That is the common cause. The less common cause is the internal fans pinging off built up ice that should have been removed during the defrost cycle.
Usually no. If your dehumidifier is running constantly and the water
container is not filling up at least once a day, there may be something
wrong with the dehumidifier. But if the unit runs constantly and the
water container has to be emptied daily, there's just a lot of humidity
in the room and the dehumidifier is doing what it's supposed to do.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I just replaced the overload relay and it does the same thing. Runs for a few seconds and the loud click from overload relay. I did notice the relay is really hot to the touch, if that matters.Coils on back are clean. I had noticed the last few months that the inside coils were frosting up quite a bit.Really had hoped it was the relay.
several things cause freeze ups.
If you have water filters on the water system, be sure they are not restricting the water flow. water flow pressure should not go below 20 psi.
The bin stat may not be shutting off the unit properly. It should shut off machine within 10 seconds of ice making contact.
Make sure the float switch is not dirty. Be careful when cleaning. Fragile
Make sure water pump runs the entire time it is in the freeze cycle.
Be sure the evaps are clean. Ice cubes will hang on if not clean.
Water solenoid has a screen where the water line screws on to it. Turn off water and check screen to be sure it is clean. This can restrict water flow.
Make sure water valve closes all the way. Turn machine off and see if water is still running. Valve may be leaking water thru.
Dip switches on the board, #1 and #2. Turn them both on and it will change the defrost time to 3 minutes. If both are off, they are set on 1 minute.
Good day, The shut off is due to the protective overload mounted on the side of the compressor to shut it down, if it can't start. On the side of the compressor is a cover box that contains the overload device, a start relay, and on some models, a start/run capacitor. These items can to a degree tested with an ohm meter, but it is wiser to take them to an appliance parts house for testing. If any are found defective, replace them. If not, the compressor has failed internally and needs to be replaced. Close to $400.00 if not more.
lets see if i can help you out here, okay . Red is your hot power wire, Green is the ground which is screwed to mounting plate, black is negative, meaning no power.... connect your wires by color Red to Red , Black to Black , And if there is a green coming from the ceiling connect to mounting plate of fixture or vise versa. Remember to use eletrical scew caps, on all connections and do not leave any wires uncovered. Basically all your doing is a seperation of a wire from wires as you seperate a wire cap it off. then move to the next set and do the same. red to red black to black green to mounting plate . YOU WIL NOT BLOW ANYTHING UP IF THERE IS A WRONG CONNECTION, if all wires are of color follow these steps, if no color switch one wire try switch and vise versa YOU can do it
I would not change the pump. If it runs for 3-5 minutes and stops, it has to be a control. The control board runs the freeze cycle for the first 5 minutes. This prevent "Short Cycling" of the freeze cycle. The board looks at the float after the first 5 minutes for the proper water level but should not effect the pump. If the pump does not run in the wash mode, check out the "Power/ Wash" switch. I would start there before I go spending hundreds on pump motor or control board. You may be able to get by on a $20 fix! Do this and get back to me. We will get it going.
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