I select the wash I want, I click and hold down the start, and usually the door locks and you hear it click. My washer doesn't lock 1 out of 7 or 8 wash cycles. I open the door to make sure nothing is in the way or blocking the latch but nothing. I tried unplugging it for 5-10 minutes and starting all over but nothing. I get an error code dL and then F, flashing back and forth and beeping sound. I've had this problem since a couple of months after purchasing it from Sears and have called numerous times for help but even though it's warranty for a year wasn't up, they told me they would charge me over 70 dollars for a technician to come to my house and look at it. ?? Can someone help??
If your washing machine is still under the manufacturers warranty I don't believe Sears should be charging you anything for the call. But, if you wish to steer clear of that mess and repair the washer yourself, I can give you some advice. The problem is your door latch assembly. The "Fdl" displayed is a failed door latch error code. If it is occurring intermittently right now, you are simply going to buy some time before it eventually goes bad. When it does, the washer will not run. The part number is 1094190 and costs about $50. Just to be sure, post back with comments as to your model number (located along the door frame opening) and I will research to ensure the part number is correct. The latch assemblies have not changed over recent years and are interchangeable between model numbers. If you still wish to repair yourself, I can also give you step-by-step instructions. It is not a difficult repair, but it is a little tedious. Let me know. I hope this helps you.
It appears that my problem was also loose wiring. Thanks a ton for this solution Mr. Roadsign.
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Unplug your machine, remove the top panel, doublecheck all of the wiring is securley connected. Sometimes the wiring becomes loose due to the machine's vibration. Hope this works! It worked for us!
Thank you SOO Freakin' much! I had replaced the door locking mechanism about two months ago (which fixed the problem) and tonight the washer did the same clicking noise! I took the back 6 screws off pulled the top cover back and just pushed connections tighter. Nothing at all seemed loose....make sure you push in the door locking three harnesses in the front right of the washer. Everything works as it should after that!!!! Amen!
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Thanks to all! The lose wiring was the culprit. Saved me hundreds!
Many Thanks
I took the lid off and found the blue cable from the door latch to ciruit board at the back. My connection was loose. I reseated both ends.
It works as expected.
I too had the door latch fail (DL4) erroe code. I noticed that the door is beginning to sag a bit so I check the switch actuator alignment and it was in fact misaligned. I repositioned the door actuator and then tightened the star screws. I also tried to shift the door up and then retighten the entire door. It still is a bit low but at least I can get it to work without the error code.
I checked all wiring connections-and it works now!!!!!!! Thank you!!! I wish I had done that before replacing the door latch, but was still better than waitng for 2 weeks for the sears repair person to come out. Who knows how much time and $$$ that would have been. Plus I now know my washer inside and out!
Loose connection for me as well. I have a Kenmore HE4. See picture below. I had the unit connected to power, and when I unplugged this green connector, the power disconnected and reset the washer. When I plugged back in, power was good and the error message was gone. Hope this helps.
Its simple,. replace the door lock assembly cost around $72 for the part and here is how its done. you tube link, http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play?p=how%20to%20replace%20door%20lock%20on%20a%20kenmore%20washing%20machine&tnr=21&vid=4834879638995091&l=216&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts4.mm.bing.net%2Fvideos%2Fthumbnail.aspx%3Fq%3D4834879638995091%26id%3D0b376392a651ff9c05f6277d5a1be61c%26bid%3D1XZ31MOpga4AoQ%26bn%3DThumb%26url%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252fwww.youtube.com%252fwatch%253fv%253d_SjU6k5bpSs&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D_SjU6k5bpSs&sigr=11a5p12vq&newfp=1&***=Front+load+washer+door+lock
I took it apart about 3 times before I did a final repair, 1) checked and cleaned all door latch contacts put it back together, worked good for a few weeks and then the same problem
2) took it apart replaced the door latch assembly, worked good a few weeks and then the same problem
3) took it apart again when it wasn't working movet the connectors on the computor board and it worked, removed connectors one at a time until I made the problem come back exactly as it was, cleaned all contacts and tightened connections, worked great for about 2 months and then the same thing
4) took it apart again, removed te two connectors that come from the door latch assembly and soldered the wires one at a time directly to the edge of the computor board( no more slide on connectors ) except for the heavey gage power wires withe the 1/4 inch slide on connectors, I left those alone, its been a few months now
life is good again
Dennis
Pressing together the wiring connections under the top panel work for me!!!!!
Roadsign has good suggestion, it follows a basic rule in fixing: See if anything has worked loose before buying parts or calling the repairman. Saves time and Money$$$
What you are all dealing with is a design problem on the printed circuit board. Sometimes reseating connectors will help because over time, some slight corrosion occurs and a high resistance condition at the plug makes the problem on the board worse. Try everything before you spend money, however.
The real problem is that one of the relays that controls the door lock is undersized for the load. Over time, the relay's contactw will start to burn, and soon thereafter, the door latch will not work. Many folks replace the door latch and have success because the newer one will run smoother than the used one. Until a few months later when it too doesn't run perfect.
There is a good photo tutorial at this location that I just found, and it got me running right, but only after spending money for now two door locks.
Look here: http://adsisecurity.com/KenmoreWasher.htm
Good Luck!
Roadsign does nail it. Same problem, re-plugging in the connectors found after removing the top cover (unplug, remove the 3 allen screws in the top back of panel, push back and lift) I still need to replace a part but at least I don't have dirty laundry festering in there.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE4t Washer door won't lock
Im assuming that the part number youve mentioned is for the new door latch assy?? Unfortunately the problem could also be in the Main CCU. Ive had several of this design have intermittent door lock codes and not lock the door....It was the CCU in most. This washer should have a full years warranty for parts and labor. Perhaps the sears people didnt understand its still under warranty. I wouldnt want for you to waste your money on the door latch if it is the Main computer. Also you may want to remove the top of the machine and check the wiring connectors going to and from the CCU and the latch.
SOURCE: sears kenmore elite he4t
Shaking is caused by poor distribution of clothes causing an imbalance. Try the machine empty. If it works well, be aware that you'll have to redistribute your load to stop the shakes.
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I have the same problem with the dorr not locking, so I purchased and replaced the latch. It wored for about six washes without any trouble and then the problem came back again, but now it won't latch no matter how many times I try.
Any other ideas?
I would really appreciate the step-by-step instructions for replacing the latch assembly.
Thanks!
I have the same problem with the latch... seems the latch is broken so I ordered a new one from sears - came promptly in the mail -- but I was hoping to get some "INSTALLATION tips" here. Â seems my question has been asked before but the only info given was that it's a relatively simple thing... but really folks... how's 'bout a few REAL pointers.. like how do you access the area behind the rubber boot to replace this darned thing? Â which part comes off first and maybe a couple common sense tips to avoid any stupid "Gotcha's".
Please?????
I can be emailed directly @ Â [email protected] if anyone is willing to share... I would greatly appreciate it.
thanks
Zargon
I have the exact same problem! any tips for a temporary fix?
I have the same dlF problem. Have had the problem off and on for about 8 months, unpluging, patience, and working the door seemed to help. This time I got the door to lock, unfortunately it was open, now I can't get the thing to unlock.....basically the same problem. I would love step by step instructions on replacing the part.
I do have the same problem. This is very enoying to me. I can not live without washer. what can I do!
I am surprised to see that this is a common problem. Â I have been experiencing the same problem off and on. Â I am interested in how to fix it now! Â Maybe I need to order the lock replacement. Â I'd love to hear any more ideas.
Just happened to me yesterday (second time since I've owned the machine). The first time I paid a tech from Sears. Even though they are huge machines, if you overload, it will break the locking mechanism. My husband is getting the replacement part today to repair.
I am having exactlyh the same issue. The door will not lock and I'm getting a dl F error message. I am going to try to suggestions listed and see if any of them work. We have had the machine for about 3 years and I've always been concerned about the door. It never seemed built for normal wear and tear associated with opening and closing it often. I love the washer but am disappointed with the numerous issues we have had.
I ordered the replacement part myself and installed it, but I am still getting the same error code. Could the replacement part be defective? The only other suggestion in the troubleshooting guide mentions is checking connections to the central control unit which I did and they all seem fine. Any other ideas?
My problem is somewhat similar. Today I heard my machine make a horrible noise like it was overloaded, the door popped open and it quit working. I took out several pieces of clothing, but the door would not latch. I did not get any kind of malfunction code. The diplay showed there was still 28 minutes to go in the cycle. After unplugging the machine and so forth, I still cannot get the door to latch. If I lean on the door to close it I can get the machine to run as if there is nothing wrong. The door latch seems to be in the lock position (?) and I can't get it to unlock to close the door! Could this be the same problem, or is mine a different problem.
the door will not "catch the lock" it clicks like it wants to but nothing. Everything else is in good working condition. I need s quick fix..lots of kids and lots of laundry
same EXACT problem!!!! I had a techician out for a very expensive vist. He tightened the door latch and I wound up purchasing a warranty. Thank goodness because I KNEW the problem was going to reoccur. I had a technician come out again he replaced the door latch. Right after he left I ran one load and on the next load the problem of NOT LOCKING (dl code) started all over. It is now about 1 in 4 loads that will not lock for me. I am on hold with Sears RIGHT NOW scheduling someone for the 3rd time! THIS WASHER NEEDS TO BE RECALLED! Google complaints and you will see.
Does anyone have a repair manual for a Kenmore Elite HE4t (45986)? Or do you know where I can get a new one.
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