If the gas supply fails whilst a burner is lit is there a safety shut off that prevents gas flowing again when the supply returns.

There are several possible causes for the described issue with your Empire BF-30-2 heater. Here are a few things to check:

1. Dirty or clogged burner: A dirty or clogged burner can cause the flame to diminish or go out. Make sure the burner is clean and free of any debris.
2. Low gas pressure: If the gas pressure is too low, it can cause the flame to diminish or go out. Check the gas pressure and make sure it's within the recommended range.
3. Faulty thermocouple: The thermocouple is a safety device that shuts off the gas supply if it detects that the pilot light is out. If the thermocouple is faulty, it could be shutting off the gas supply even though the pilot light is still lit. Check the thermocouple and replace it if necessary.
4. Faulty gas valve: The gas valve controls the flow of gas to the burner. If the gas valve is faulty, it may be shutting off the gas supply even though the pilot light is still lit. Check the gas valve and replace it if necessary.
5. Oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) tripped: The ODS is a safety feature that shuts off the heater if it detects a low oxygen level in the room. If the ODS has tripped, it could be shutting off the gas supply. Make sure the room is properly ventilated and reset the ODS if necessary.

If none of these solutions solve the problem, it's best to contact a qualified HVAC technician to diagnose and repair the issue.

It may be the Thermocouple safety device. Here is some video help.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Attwood+propane+water+heater+won%27t+stay+lit

Even if the oven thermal overload sensor is functioning properly, it is less likely to be the cause of the issue with the oven and top burners not working. However, it is still worth checking to ensure that the sensor is not malfunctioning or damaged. The thermal overload sensor is a safety feature that can cause the oven to shut off if it overheats, so if it is faulty or damaged, it could potentially prevent the oven from heating up or cause it to shut off prematurely. To test the thermal overload sensor, you can use a multimeter to check its resistance. The resistance should increase as the temperature of the oven rises. If the resistance remains the same or is outside the expected range, then the sensor may be faulty and should be replaced. If the sensor appears to be functioning correctly, then you should investigate other potential causes mentioned below,

If the oven and top burners are not working even after replacing the main control board, there could be several other possible causes. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the power supply: Even though the voltage at each input feed wire is 120 volts, the power supply may not be providing enough current to operate the oven and burners. Check the wiring and connections to ensure they are secure and not damaged. You may also want to check the circuit breaker or fuse box to make sure there are no issues with the electrical supply.
2. Check the heating elements: The oven and top burners are powered by heating elements. If one or more of the heating elements are faulty, this could be causing the issue. Check the elements for any signs of damage or wear, and test them with a multimeter to ensure they are functioning properly.
3. Check the wiring harness: The wiring harness connects the various components of the oven to the control board. If the wiring harness is damaged or has a loose connection, this could be preventing the oven and burners from working. Check the wiring harness to ensure it is securely connected and not damaged.
4. Check the safety valve: The safety valve on the oven regulates the flow of gas to the burners. If the safety valve is faulty, it may not be allowing gas to flow to the burners, which could be preventing them from igniting. Check the safety valve to ensure it is functioning correctly.

If you are unable to identify the issue, it may be best to call a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the oven.

There could be a few different reasons why your Kingavon mobile calor gas heater is not producing heat despite igniting. Here are some potential causes to check:

1. Burner or pilot light: Check to make sure the burner and/or pilot light are not blocked by debris or dust. Use a soft brush or compressed air to clean them off.
2. Gas supply: Make sure the gas supply is turned on and there is adequate gas pressure. Check to see if the regulator is working properly.
3. Thermocouple: The thermocouple is a safety device that shuts off the gas supply if the pilot light goes out. If it is malfunctioning, it may be preventing the gas from flowing properly. Try cleaning or replacing the thermocouple.
4. Gas valve: The gas valve controls the flow of gas to the burner. If it is faulty, it may not be allowing enough gas to flow through to produce heat. Try cleaning or replacing the gas valve.
5. Ignition system: If the ignition system is not working properly, the gas may ignite but not produce enough heat. Check to see if the spark electrode and ignition module are working properly.

If none of these solutions fix the problem, it may be best to contact a professional repair technician to diagnose and fix the issue.

The system I am familiar with uses a vapour pressure type thermocouple and if the pilot remains lit the thermocouple is working as it controls the gas for the pilot and the burner at the same time from the same source - if the gas control is ok and the flow isn't prevented by the thermostat then if the pilot remains alight, there should be a flow of gas and the burner should light - unless the gas jet is blocked or something else, some other type of blockage is preventing the flow of gas to the burner...

I suggest you check the gas jet and the flow of gas to it...

Something must be stopping the gas flow to the burners - blocked jets, blockage in the line, thermostat or safety thermocouple.

Thermocouple is probably the most common heater failure though in a conventional design usually when it fails the pilot will light but not remain lit.
Knowing the thermostat is electrically ok doesn't mean it is allowing a flow of gas when it is supposed to but again much depends on the design. With an electrical/electronic system the thermostat will probably switch an electrical supply to a solenoid valve controlling the gas flow. A continuity check with an ohmmeter is only a prelude to measuring the voltage/current flow and that is only a prelude to ensuring the presence of a supply actually switches on the gas flow...

Two things have to occur here:

1) The ignitor has to light off the gas. A bad ignitor, or dusty burners can prevent ignition.

2) The thermocouple has to be in the flow of burning gas to prevent a safety shut-down, and has to be working.

And the obvious: you need pressure in the gas line, and the gas valve needs to be open.

Hope this helps you locate the problem!

Light sensors detect when burners are lit. If they become blocked with lint, dust, etc., they will not detect the flame and, for safety purposes, automatically shut off the gas flow.

Dust and lint are a dryer's worst enemy. Be sure that all sensing devices (particularly optical sensors) are clear of dust and lint so that light can pass unobstructed into the lens.

If they sensors are all clean, they might be defective. Something is erroneously telling your dryer's control that the burners are not lit and thus the gas supply is shut down.

Most modern gas regulators have a safety feature to prevent gas left on. If you shut off the tank first and then turn off the burners, it will trigger and keep the gas flow at a very reduce flow to prevent you from turning on the tank again with the burners left on and not realizing it. Turn everything off and then turn on tank first, followed by the burners and this will solve most problems of a low flame or a bbq that won't get hot.

OK sista62, here is your solution. The problem is that the thermocouple that controls the valve supplying gas to the ovenjet is not working. A new thermocouple is available from http://blgas.com.au/online/category4_1.htm and will cost about AUD$40.00.


The control valve is located right behind the knob on the frontpanel (the centre one that controls both the oven and the grill.) You will see two small copper tubes going into the control valve. These are the thermocouple tubes, one comes from the griller and the other from the ovenjet. All the other knobs only have one thermocouple for each of the topplate burners.

If you want to test before you buy, disconnect the thermocouple from from one of the topplate burners and connect it to the one for the oven control valve. Now turn on the topplate burner and keep it going by holding the knob down on the front panel for this burner. Now light the oven burner and it should stay on.

Good luck.