I just had my electric motor rewound. At first I had 3 wires coming out of it now I have 9 that are number coded. I need to know which wires I need to hook up. The man at the motor shop said don't use

is your shop 3 phase? if so follow low valage wiring on motor data plate. If not it is not economically feasible to but phase converters.

Its going to depend on whether you are connecting to 240 volt or 440 volts...

It also depends on whether it is a 'wye' wound motor or a 'delta' wound motor.

A nine wire motor is probably a multi-voltage motor capable of running on either 240 or 440 volts. For operation on low voltage, 240 v, the windings must be connected in parallel whereas hi voltage operation makes it necessary to have the windings wired in series.

I will not give the details on the winding connections because the process to determine whether it is a 'delta' or 'wye' wound motor is too involved to derscribe on a forum. But..... if it is a 'wye' wound motor, there will be three additional wire connections 10, 11, and 12, that are wired together and under the end bell and not accessible.

We don't want to 'smoke' your motor, so let the suggestion be to contact a reputable and qualified electrician who you trust to determine what's required and to connect it without the potential for damage.

Please verify the existing connections to determine if they fit the "High Voltage" configuration listed below. If they do (and they should), the "Low Voltage" configuration below is then correct for 240.

Jaypug

Low voltage ...

L1---1--6--7

L2---2--4--8

L3---3--5--9


High voltage ...

L1---1 4--7

L2---2 5--8

L3---3 6--9

Hi Casey, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

First, a disclaimer. Without the catalog number of the motor you have, or a wiring diagram for it, no one can tell you how to wire this motor with any certainty. With that said...

Nearly all single speed 3 phase motors have 9 leads (numbered 1 thru 9) and can be wired for either "high" or "low" voltage. Most of the time, high is 480 volts and low is 208/240 volts. Given that you posted the amperage as "41-38 / 19", I am 99% confident that 41 amps is at 208 volts, 38 amps is at 240 volts and 19 amps is 480 volts. Further below is the way to wire unless the motor manufacturer or name plate indicates differently. You will need to determine the voltage of the appliance this is going to be installed into. You should be able to find this on a name plate of the appliance - but it may provide a dual voltage spec here, too. If this is the case, you will need to *carefully* measure the voltage with a meter, or find out the voltage of the electric panel that feeds the appliance.

Once you have learned the incoming voltage, you will connect the motor as such when L1, L2 and L3 are the line voltage supply wires and wires 1 thru 9 match the numbers on the nine wires from the motor.

208/240 or "Low" volts:
Motor leads 4, 5 & 6 connected together and wirenut.
Motor leads 1 & 7 to L1 and wirenut.;
Motor leads 2 & 8 to L2 and and wirenut and lastly,
Motor leads 3 & 9 to L3 and wirenut.

480 or "High" volts:
Motor lead 1 to L1 and wirenut,
Motor lead 2 to L2 and wirenut,
Motor lead 3 to L3 and wirenut,
Motor leads 4 to 7 and wirenut,
Motor leads 5 to 8 and wirenut and lastly,
Motor leads 6 to 9 and wirenut.

The motor should be operated briefly or "jogged" to determine the direction the motor turns. If the motor rotation needs to be changed, simply swap any two "L" wires (swap L1 and L2, or L1 and L3, or L2 and L3). Test once more to verify rotation and when correct close the wiring compartment and complete the installation. Swapping the L wires will likely be much quicker and easier to do at the magnetic contactor instead of the the motor's wiring compartment. Either location is acceptable.

You should try to obtain the name plate data for this motor - if at all possible to to make sure of the voltage and wiring method. I hope this helps & good luck!

The cable mechanisms in these are not designed to come apart, once they do the while regulator needs to replaced as a unit.

If the batteries are good, you have solved 80% of most scooter problems. You have described the following problem:

You have a flash code of 9, that is the status light flashes 9 times, then there is a pause, then flashes 9 times again and the scooter will not drive.

This means that you have an internal controller problem. The only solution to this problem is to replace the controller (computer module). The controller is located under a plastic cover under your feet when you are sitting in the scooter. Remove this plastic cover and remove the aluminum cover of the controller inspecting for burnt and melted wiring.

You should have the manufacturer run the serial number for this scooter to verify the correct component parts (Pride 800-800-8586). Pride can also verify if the parts are covered under warranty. Warranty repairs need to be done by a certified technician or a dealer.

The R series controller for this scooter runs $230 retail. All the associated wiring harnesses plugged into it (if melted or damaged) will run another $230. Labor is about 1 hour and you can do it yourself. Take off all the covers and plug the wiring harnesses in one at a time noting how they are run.

I have seen the wiring and plugs melted where they plug into the controller, so inspect this area carefully.

You can test the motor with a digital voltmeter. Unplug the motor and put your test leads across the red and black connectors . The resistance should be between .5 and 1.5 ohms for a good motor. Test the motor brake by reading the resistance across the 2 white connectors. It should read between 30-35 ohms across the brake. Hope this helps.

Normal wiring for this type of 9 lead motor to 440VAC is
Connect #4 to #7 Connect #5 to #8 Connect #6 to #9
Connect supply phase A to #1 Connect supply phase B to #2 Connect supply phase C to #3
Can you confirm the CAT and SPEC numbers? They do not show up on the Baldor site. If they are correct as listed, you need to call the Baldor help line and find out if this is a special motor.

Consult your owners manual for the flash code guide. I believe that you probably have a PG Drives Joysitck/Controller, in which case a 9 code would indicate problem with the brake system. Check the free-wheel levers by placing them in the neutral position, and then firmly placing them back in drive. Try to restart. If still flashing, you need to remove the seat and the shroud and examine the connections inside the base of the chair. The brakes are at the end of the motor, and there are thin wires coming from them back to the controller box. Inspect these wires for any damage, and follow them back to make sure any connections on the way are tight, and that the connections for all clip connections are tight.

The brake is electrically operated by a solenoid. If the solenoid has gone bad, then this will also cause a fault code. Contact your dealer for servicing this part. Good Luck.

Line is L1 L2 L3 to line voltage. wire nut 4-7 together wirenut 5-7 together and wirenut 6-9 together connect 123 to line for low voltage 123 together 456 together 679 together. This works on all dual voltage 3 phase motors. Some of the newer Daytom motors have a plug that you just turn for changing voltage. Rudty

i do not know this model washer, but i can tell you the motor leads are all powered by 120 VAC. there are4 because one wire is common (wired to) the other 3. each opposite end of the other 3, when powered by 120, turn the motor at different speeds because each of these 3 windings has a different number of coil turns. you can dry test the motor by first determining the common wire, then apply 120 to this wire and then, one at a time, to each of the other wires. do this test using a proven circuit-breaker-ed outlet to reduce risk.