How do I get the drawer out of my fridge. It is the drawer that is on its own in the middle of the fridge. It is on two side rails and it only comes out 2/3 of the way. Model is FRT17G4BW3

Remove the ice build up at the back of the drawer or something may have fallen over the top edge.. To remove the drawer, lift at the front and pull, or look on the side rail for catches.

Please always include full 'make model (what it is)', then we can refer to the owner or service manual.

Pull the drawer all the way out. About 3/4 of the way back of the rails on each side is a plastic locking tab. Push the tabs in and pull the drawer the rest of the way out.

Step 1: . Unplug the fridge. You can wait until later but don't forget.
Step 2: Freezer door. It's 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns - don't take the screws out entirely - it's much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place. The door slides up & off.
Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now's a good time to start eating all your ice cream.
Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward.
On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails.
Step 5: Icemaker. Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel - squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide.
Step 6: Plastic guards.The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out.
The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up.
Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot.
FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it's flexible & will pop back into shape.
SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don't like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side - when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out - the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws.
Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem. Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. MELT IT ALL. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because ... that will ruin your fridge.
Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge - no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess.
The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It's pretty wide (1/2?) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber "duck bill" grommet that's probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge...
Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray - that's where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.
Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there's a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There's a rubber "duck bill" grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it - it's no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger - see this site for photos.
Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn't remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place . Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Again, wear gloves. Once it's in place, don't forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out.
When you put the the top tray back, make sure it's all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves. Otherwise your drawer will be crooked & probably won't slide.
Hope this helps. I have a Whirlpool GX2FGDXVY but these steps work on other models too including Maytag etc.

here is the whole exert video of the whole eplanation watch it,(https://youtu.be/lhuBR1sKx7E)or
kingsley

if it is the drawer dishwasher, then first you need to take the front cover off carefully. Turn the mains power off and take the power plug out from socket if accessible. With a plier pull out the pins on each side of the drawer holding the front cover. Carefully pull out the front cover and leave it aside. Find where the drawer has come off the rails. Extend the rail arms on each side and try to replace the drawer on the guide rail and latch it back in. Make sure the controller and top display panel do not fall off when handling the drawer. Once the drawer is back on rail, put the top cover back and secure the pins from the sides. Put the mains power back.

On most newer fridges, there is a very shallow 'V' shaped collection channel at the back of the fridge just above the bottom drawers, this is for condensate collection. In the middle of this channel there should be a hole, this quite often gets clogged, and over flows, hence the water at the bottom of the produce drawers, clear the hole and it should cure your leak, worth checking every couple of months.

the track rails appear to have come loose. Remove the drawer place a level on the track rail and tighten or reinstall the screws which held it in place. There will be one set of screws for single track drawers or one on each side of a two rail drawer.

What you have is probably a bad defrost heater element is my first inclination. I would look for frost buildup on the backside of the bottom drawer. That is a sure sign of defrost failure. And most defrost failures turn out to be broken heaters. The defrost heaters mount on the evaporator coils and simply heat the area for a few seconds to melt frost. If left alone that frost will trun into snow and then into air flow blocking slab of ice and fail fresh food cooling. I have a 3 door repair manual you may want to look through just to see what you are up against. To do this repair the ice maker and all the rails drawers bins and food must come out so you can get to the rear where the evap coil and defrost heater is located.

LG FRENCH DOOR REPAIR MANUAL


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Open the drawer, on both sides, near the front there is a small circulat pin, with a slot in the middle, grab the middle with a pliers, and pull straight out, with this out, the square button in front of the hole will push in, and slide it slightly back, then the drawer will slide out, and you can lift it off the rails.

The best thing to do is turn the power off ,remove the bottom drawer by pushing in the clips on side of the drawer ,just below the round plugs. The clips are attached to runners, push them back to release the drawer and ( after taking out the rack and spray arm) put the drawer on its r.h.side. Mop up the all water in the base, then remove the cover that goes over the back L.h. corner, this will expose the mains/flood switch board ( make sure you dry the roof of the drawer before you take the cover off , or water can drip onto the board .....not a good thing!!!).

To remove the cover, push in the clip in the middle front edge of the cover with a flat blade screwdriverand slide the cover foward a bit, then put the screwdriver under the clip and twist up, the cover should now pull off to the right. Spend a couple of minutes drying the board with a hair dryer and mop up any remaining water ( be careful of the board again). Refit the cover and switch back on ( you shouldn't need to force the cover on, just slide it on from right to left , but you may have to push down the cover just above the clip to get it to lock once it is located correctly). If it doesn't F1 again ,all good, if it does , remove cover and redry, and repeat until it doesn't.

To refit drawer, slide out L.h. rail and sit drawer on it, then lift right side of drawer and slide out other rail and sit other side down. If the rails don't want to slide foward and lock, lift the drawer at the front while sliding the rail fowarduntil the front edge of the rail is just at the clipping gap at the side of the drawer, then make sure the drawer is sitting down firmly on the rails and pull clips foward to lock. If the drawer has been clipped in correctly it will slide in and out nicely, if not , look at the back edge of the drawer when it is fully open to see where it is sitting too high and rectify by refitting the rail on the affected side/sides. By this point if any part of the bottom drawer was broken ,you would have seen it. Also check the top drawer by releasing it and pulling it foward,shine torch in and have a good look.

Hopefully it won't leak again unless ther is a faulty part not visible to the naked eye, check by running one drawer for a couple of minutes, stop the cycle and open the drawer and check the outsides for water ( don't be too worried if you see water in the bottom between the drawers as it will drip from the roof, unless the drain or fill hoses are split ) ,if ok, run the other drawer and check.

Remember, if you get to a point where you don't feel confident with what you doing or you think you might break something, leave it and call a professional to do the job, you may save money in the long run and if you going to expose wires or connections always switch off and unplug before removing the cover, you dont know whats underneath.

This diagram shows the parts available for your model. It shows some rails. If you can see how the rails detach and go back on you can probably replace the broken ones. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=PDS22MCRABB&productCategoryId=0161000&brandId=0432&modelName=BOTTOM-MOUNT-REFRIGERATOR&diagramPageId=00001&componentDescription=DOORS%20&%20SHELVES&documentId=GR708119&blt=06