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This can vary, but must be higher than the connection to the household drain to prevent the sink/disposer drain water from entering the dishwasher. The best approach will route the dishwasher drain hose up to the underside of the counter top (it is handy to tie off to one of the sink mount clips if they are convenient) and then back down to the household drain connection, often the garbage disposer. Some dishwashers have a drain hose retainer clip on one side of the tank to help form a "high loop" before running the drain hose to the household drain connection. You should *not* ever have more than one (1) high loop as this will impede the dishwasher drain.
drain coolant drain cock is at lower driver side .remove air cleaner.remove the electrical conaction.
remove right side diagonal brace remove upper radiator support and rotate reward remove the upper radiator hose remove upper radiator mount remove cooling fan shroud bolts "disconnect outlet hose from the water pump raise the vehicle disconnect outlet hose from the radiator
disconnect oil cooler hoses from top side of the radiator as follows
disengage the plastic cap from the quick connect fitting pull the plastic cap back along the pipe hold one leg of retaining clip
using a small bent screwdriver gently disengage the other end of the retaining clip from the quick content fitting rotate the retaining clip out of the quick connect fitting remove the retaining clip completely
remove the nut which secures the AC discharge hose remove the inlet tube remove radiator and condenser assembly
(Try to remove the radiator and keep the AC condenser In place)
Nothing worked, because the drain hole to the hose connection is clogged or the hose is clogged. When that happens, water is diverted to the bucket.
Turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to OFF & Unplug the unit.
Remove the hose and check it for clogs. If none are found, the clog is inside the hose connector.
Using an 18" long plastic Zip Tie appropriately sized to fit the hole. Carefully insert the tip of the Zip Tie and continue to push it in, until you reach a bend in the tubing. You will have to gingerly work the Zip Tie past the bend, until it bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Then slowly remove the Zip Tie while rotating (twisting) it. This will break up any clogs. As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared as some water that might follow. Even if you don't see any residue from a clog, it may have been pushed out of the way. Reinstall everything, plug the unit in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and take it for a test drive.
Be sure the hose is no longer than 5 feet and that it gradually slopes down and away from the unit. The water drainage relies entirely on gravity.
Hope this helped you troubleshoot and solve the problem.
First, the hose should not exceed 5 feet in length. There is no pump in that model dehumidifier. It relies totally on gravity to drain through the hose.
If all of the above is as stated above, I suspect that hose or the tubing inside the hose connecting is clogged. Which forces the water into the bucket rather than the hose.
To remove the clog in the unit, you will need an 18" long plastic Zip Tie or something similar, that is appropriately sized to fit into the hose connection/drain hole. NO wire coat hangers though.
Carefully feed the Zip Tie in to the hose connection. About 6" in the tubing will bend. You need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past this bend, until the Zip Tie bottoms out or you run out of Zip Tie to work with. The slowly remove the Zip Tie while rotating it. This will breakup clog. As you near the end of the Zip Tie coming out, be prepared for some water to follow. DO NOT perform any of this while the unit is plugged in to the wall outlet.
Hope this helped you solve the problem, Robert. Please let me know. Thanks.
The radiator drain is accessible with the bumper off. It's on the left side (driver's side). The coolant is normally drained by pulling up the clip (you don't need to take it off) on the plastic end of the lower radiator drain hose, near the radiator, and pulling the plastic end of the hose straight off, wiggle a little but don't break off the radiator plastic nipple!
the drain tube for the drip pan under the condenser is plugged up. the drain tube is located outside the fire wall on passenger side of truck. (small black rubber hose). you can take a long plastic tie strap and insert into the hose to clear any trash out of the line without any damage to the hose. hope this will help!
im not lying to you when i say this thre is a procedure first remove drain bolt 5mm then while unde car there is a small tube that has a clip which locks around cap on tube remove this clip without breaking pill cap out run hose or funnel of some kind to tube start car have some one add fluid until staedy stream comes out of drain hole then reinsert plug and cap drive car there is a plastic sleeve up in drain hole which has to come out to drain trans it is approx 2 inches long tat is why nothing comes out drain hole unless the trans ia full be sure to use correct fluid
If it is the clips I am thinking of... they have a white push in clip from the side of the connector, pull the white clip out, ( which is really the lock for it) and then the hoses will pull off.. reverse to install.
Drain problems can come from a number of places. If you've already replaced the pump, then let's first check The drain insdie your tub. If it's plugged from that side, you'll get the same problem. So with that said...Where the front panel and the top of the machine meet, there is a crack. When using a flashlight, you will see 4 items in this crack. 2 are green 2 are black. The black pieces are support studs, ignore them. The green one's are clips that hold the top to the front. Using a putty knife (easier) or a small flat head screw driver (a bit more difficult) push one of the green clips towards the rear of the machine while lifting on the top (warning they are very stiff). You can wrap the tool in a light cloth to help protect the finish, althought it may make the clips more difficult to remove. Only lift slightly (too far and it will bind on those support studs I told you about) Now press the clip on the other side and lift the top up.(now this is easier if you have a second person to hold up the lid while you work underneath. You will see your tub from a new perspective. First you will see a plastic ring around the top of the tub. Disconnect the green clamp on the hose towards the left rear using a pair of pliers or channel locks. The ring is held down with clips all of the way around the tub. By pressing down over each clip and pulling the clips slightly forward, you can remove the top ring. The rest is the easiest part. In the center of the basket, there is a small cap. Remove this with a small flat head screwdriver. Remove the bolt (7/16") that is underneath the cap. Now lift the whole basket out. If your small items get too far (ie, the pump), remove the back panel. On the left hand side you will see a small black hose towards the botom. This connects to the pump. Forign objects can lodge in here keeping it from draining also. If you disconnect the hoses, have something handy for all of the water to go into (large wet vac is usually the best). Drop the 3 #20 torx screws and the pump will come down and you can remove the obstructions. Finnaly, try re-seating your drain hose. If it is too far down side the house drain pipe it can cause problems as well. Remove the drain hose (the thicker black hose from the back of the machine) out of the wall. Now re-insert it back in only 6" going into the drain. When they go in too far, the drain in your house that prevents odors from coming back out of your drain causes a siphon that pulls the water back out when the washer is filling. Make sure to tie the drain hose down with a tie so it does not pop back out when the washer is draining/ spinning.
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