LG LFC23760ST Side by Side Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator Logo
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Anonymous Posted on Oct 11, 2014

How do I install the upper drawer (basket) in the freezer section of my 2 door frig w/ bottom freezer

The upper sliding wire-drawer-basket was removed for protection during a recent move. Now we cannot figure out how it goes back in. freezer door installed fine but need the upper basket as bottom part of freezer is continually over filled without upper drawer space utilized.

1 Answer

graybeard32301

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  • Master 382 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2015
graybeard32301
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Download your manual here . Detailed instructions on the drawer are provided on pages 13 and 14. Product Support

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 14, 2007

SOURCE: Freezer works fine refridgerator does not

anan, I think your display is giving you a code on these LG. See if you can find the tech sheet behind the toe panel. On your display panel from memory, 3 led's lit from the left means a failed defrost thermistor. This could be the reason you are frosting up and restricting the air flow. There is a main board in back that you can ohm out the thermistors. Connector 4, the two bright orange wires #5 and 6, should ohm at 19K ohms at 50 degrees. Now Im doing this from memory, if you can find your tech sheet, it will give you precise information. Catriver.

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Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 03, 2007

SOURCE: water pooling and freezing inside bottom freezer

I had the same problem with my LRFC25750 and have finally figured out what's happening! The water that is pooling and freezing on the bottom of the freezer is definitely coming from the defrost cycle. It is pooling inside the freezer compartment because the drain inside the back of the freezer intended to carry the defrost water down to the external evaporator tray underneath is blocked with ice. As a result, the defrost water from the coils overflows the collector under the coils and runs down the inside back of the freezer, pools on the bottom, and re-freezes when the cycle is over. this continues until there's so much ice on the bottom that the water from next defrost cycle runs out on the floor. The "easy" solution is to unplug the unit and let it completely melt out (this could take 24-36 hours). I couldn't wait, so I removed the freezer drawers and their tracks and pulled out the back panel inside the freezer -- saw the ice in the collector and blocking the drain and I melted it away with hot water and verified that water could now flow down to the external evaporator tray. Unless you want to do this, I'd say give it a good 24-36 hours for all the ice to melt away. I think it all started when we left the freezer door ajar for a whole day and probably had a lot of frost build-up on the coils. The next defrost cycle was not enough to clear all the frost and things began to build up from there. Once the drain is frozen, though, you're finished -- the defrost heater doesn;t reach down that far and you have to melt it down completely or it will continue to leak forever. I've heard that you can get a drain heater to ensure that the drain never freezes over or at least so that it is sure to clear with each defrost cycle. I'll post an update if I locate one.

Anonymous

  • 12 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2008

SOURCE: refrigerator slides on floor causing door to bind

there should be some adjustable feet in the front that you can tighten down so that the wheels get pushed off the floor. causing the fridge not to move. if that is already tightened down another idea is to find out the distance from the back wall and get a piece of wood that length and just set it back to prevent the fridge from moving back. hope that helps

Eric Campion

Affordable Appliance Parts

  • 117 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 21, 2009

SOURCE: Bottom freezer door/drawer won't close all the way on one side.

Remove all the food from the freezer and then the drawer from the cabinet. Now using a silicone based lubricant, lube the tracks up real well. Be sure to clean the tracks first if gunked up. Make sure nothing small fell out of the basket over time and is laying on the floor in the rear of the freezer section. Once done, you should be fine.

Eric Campion

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 23, 2009

SOURCE: Top Freezer section working Bottom Refrigerator not getting cold

I have a side by side jenn-air refrigerator, the freezer compartment working fine and making ice like it should, however the refrigerator compartmant is not cooling, no cold air is felt, I need advise.

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ICE FORM AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FREEZER ALL THE TIME, LEAKS OUT ONTO MY HARDWOOD FLOORS AND FORM PUDDLES

Step 1: . Unplug the fridge. You can wait until later but don't forget.
Step 2: Freezer door. It's 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns - don't take the screws out entirely - it's much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place. The door slides up & off.
Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now's a good time to start eating all your ice cream.
Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward.
On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails.
Step 5: Icemaker. Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel - squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide.
Step 6: Plastic guards.The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out.
The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up.
Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot.
FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it's flexible & will pop back into shape.
SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don't like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side - when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out - the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws.
Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem. Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. MELT IT ALL. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because ... that will ruin your fridge.
Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge - no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess.
The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It's pretty wide (1/2?) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber "duck bill" grommet that's probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge...
Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray - that's where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.
Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there's a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There's a rubber "duck bill" grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it - it's no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger - see this site for photos.
Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn't remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place . Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Again, wear gloves. Once it's in place, don't forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out.
When you put the the top tray back, make sure it's all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves. Otherwise your drawer will be crooked & probably won't slide.
Hope this helps. I have a Whirlpool GX2FGDXVY but these steps work on other models too including Maytag etc.

here is the whole exert video of the whole eplanation watch it,(https://youtu.be/lhuBR1sKx7E)or
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