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Anonymous Posted on Oct 10, 2014

Outside a room there are three light switches. one switch is connected to the only light bulb inside the room. each of these three switched can be either "on" or "off". all start in the "off" position

Outside a room there are three light switches. one switch is connected to the only light bulb inside the room. each of these three switched can be either "on" or "off". all start in the "off" position. you are allowed to set each switch the way you want it and then enter the room (note: you can enter the room only once) your task is to then determine which switch controls the bulb. how would you do this?

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Joseph Marquardt

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  • Contributor 25 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2014
Joseph Marquardt
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While standing at the switches (outside the room) turn each switch on until the light is activated. You need not be in the room to see the light operating.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 550 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 26, 2008

SOURCE: Want to install Fan and light control from one switch.

'define control'

anyway, that all the lights work together makes it simpler

most fanlights, updated by homeowners replace a lamp only unit, with on/off provided at the switch, and cable pulls on the unit to change speed direction of the fan

my favorite is paired dimmer switches, giving control separately of light and fan speed, fan direction still changes on the pull switch, requires 3 wires in the switch box, (power and 2 switched lines), to the lamp connector and fan motor connector, any sparky can pull the extra line with fishtape along the existing cable run. easy peasey.
Really good electricians pull three wire to light circuits, when the house is built or reno-ed. but you know how oftern that is gonna happen, 3 wire costs 3c more per foot, if there is 3 wire in the switch box -your home and hosed

or just for speed/dimmer control a dimmer switch can replace the existing single switch. but you still have to pull the cords to start the fans

its easy, with the caveat that you may kill yourself, or someone else, or burn the house down, if you dont do it right

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Anonymous

  • 1605 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2008

SOURCE: How do I wire this table lamp?

first check out the sw. use a volt meter measure between all of the lines. i.e black & red, black & green tec.... and tun the switch to each position.
note the output on the meter, when you turn the sw. that will tell you which 2 lines are switched and the which is fixed.
1). connected the hot "line in", to one line from each of the buld.
2). take the left over line from buld #1, connect it to one of the switching line on the sw.
3). take the left over line from buld #2, connect it to the other wsitching line.
4). connect the left over "line-in" to the fixed line on the switch.

Anonymous

  • 323 Answers
  • Posted on May 28, 2009

SOURCE: Wiring Bathroom light/vent/heater switch with 3 separate controls

Wiring a bathroom combination vent, heater, light 3 way switch means more wires. In brief, you need to run two cables - one a two wire and one a three wire from the switch to the fan.

Incoming power will have white black and ground.

The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

The switch will likely have 2 blacks and a red coming from it, with two blacks and a red on one side, and a single black on the other.

The fan should have a red, blue, green, black, and white.

On the fan end: Group all green/copper grounds together and use a wire nut to fasten them together. Tape the nut to the wires.
There will be five white wires coming through. For ease of handling, using wire nuts, connect two on one nut and three on the other.
connect the blue to a blck. Connect one red to one black, and the other red to the other black.

The switch will have one red going into the 3 wire cable, a black going to the 3 wire cable, and a black form incoming power to the side opposite the 3 wires, and a blck going to the two wire cable.

There. Confused?

A Miller

  • 8404 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 20, 2009

SOURCE: I am trying to replace a rotary canopy switch in a

This is a very strange arrangement, your switch

BTW, my pleasure ... I am a volunteer poster here - not an employee. I'm at home ... watching Dancing with the Stars - I do this for the 'bragging rights'. I'm not perfect but pretty darn good for a High School shuv-out!

You may be able to find a "Off - On (1) - ON (2) - Off" kind of switch ... I'm racking my little brain from when I worked as a (50 year+old) stock boy at the Ace hardware/Auto supply, row 3 - electrical - to see if I remember seeing that switch. I'm pretty sure there is such a thing.

Your arrangement is very strange. Take your switch to the hardware and spend some time exploring. And forget the big box store for now ... look at your little hardware store first. I think they will most likely be able to find you a replacement or the switch I described above.

Thanks for using Fixya.com and I hope I have helped you with your question.

a

Testimonial: "Good advice. Made me not feel so bad about being puzzled by this situation."

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 16, 2010

SOURCE: Superswitch programmable wall light switch

http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/consumer%20indoor%20timers/in-wall%20timers/ej351c.aspx

Manual say 'incandescent' light bulbs only.

What can I control with my EJ351C? The EJ351C timer is to be used with standard base incandescent light bulbs only! It should not be used to control lighting such as:

  • Compact Florescent
  • Energy Saver
  • Flood lights
  • Halogen
  • Mercury Vapor
  • Christmas lights
  • Candelabra bulbs

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Replace sealed 1950s three-way switch

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Connecting lighting correctly

Don't know what you're working with.

AC household electricity?

Common (White) wire goes to all three lights. Goes to silver colored screw.
Hot (Black) wire goes to switch, then all three lights.

ALWAYS put the switch in the hot wire. Not the Common.
Reason?
Let's say you are changing a light bulb.
Your feet are on the floor. You are then considered to be Grounded.

You have the light switch off. You go to remove the light bulb, slip, and a finger goes in the socket.
Result?
You get shocked.

Hot (Black) wire has the switch. This time of you slip, and a finger goes in the light bulb socket; you won't be shocked.
The power is turned off at the switch.

Common wire comes from source. (Service Panel/'Breaker Box'), and goes to the lights.
Hot (Black) wire comes from source, and goes to light switch.
Then to the first light, second light, and third light.

Is there a 3-way switch involved?
Walk in one end of the room, turn the light on, walk to the other end of the room, and turn it off?

Post back in a Comment as to the exact query.

Regards,
joecoolvette
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I have 2 lights in the midle of the room single swich I would like to install a second swich in a different position thank You in anticipation Pat Tavani

You must have two wires connection between two switch. Power supply (hot wire) must going to first switch. It is like you have one road. Then you have 'crossroads' and two wire. It is going to another switch. There is another 'crossroads' on that switch and two path became one road (electric). After that switch your wire going to bulb. Of course, second connection of bulb going to power supply (not hot wire). Switches gas one middle (main) point and two output. It has three connection (like road crossroad with main road and two way from it). It look like this:
F o-----------==========----------------
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I have a double switch box controlling inside lights and outside lights. I installed a GE Smart Digital Timer (model 15086) to control the outside lights. In the wall box, the white wires are tied together...

From the description you gave on your post , sounds like you hooked the timer up correctly . Again , from the panel the hot ( black ) is jointed with the blacks feeding the inside switch and the timer correct ? And the Neutral ( white ) is jointed feeding the inside lights and timer for outside correct ? And from the timer ( GE model 15086 ) the Red Wire ( Switch Leg from timer ) is connected to the Black ( Switch Leg ) feeding the outside lights correct ? If this is exactly how you've wired your timer , then you have done your homework . Now all you need to do is make sure you have programed your timer correctly , and with your instructions that came with the timer , this should be no problem . If you continue to experience trouble , my suggestion would be to return the timer . It's not unheard of for some of these timers to come from the factory defective . This wiring configuration should not affect your inside lights . I hope this helps your home wiring project . I'm an electrician if that's any consolation !
Feb 09, 2011 • Hammering
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I have installed a 2-way dimmer switch in my dining room. I was able to install it and it works great. However, on the other side of the wall where I installed the switch, I have another single way...

If I understand correctly new dimmer is in different box than outdoor switch.
And outdoor switch controls different light than new dimmer.
Both new dimmer and outdoor light are on same circuit breaker, and that breaker is not tripped.

Outdoor problem could be related if loose wire inside dimmer box also feeds over to outdoor switch. More below.
Here's how I would troubleshoot problem.
1) Check outdoor bulb(s). This step can be big time saver.

2) Pull outdoor switch out of box a bit so you can see and test wires.

3) If wires are pushed into quick connects located on back of switch, these connects get loose. Moving switch usually causes loose wire to connect again, so turn switch ON-OFF and see if outdoor lights work. Sometimes switch works fine after quick connects reconnect. If quick connects are bad, use tiny screwdriver in slot next to connect-hole to release wire. And then connect wire to screw terminals on switch. Or replace switch.

4) Turn switch to OFF, use tester and test both screws on switch to bare ground wire. Tester should light up on one screw. If tester does not light up, then switch is not getting power, and that wire has to be tracked back to see where short is.

a) Look if one of the black switch wires is connected to other switch, or connected to other black wires inside same box. This wire might have come loose.
b) Look at white wire inside same box and make sure they are twisted together and covered with wire nut.

c) Now here is where dimmer could be related ... if white wires are joined together in dimmer box, they could have come loose if they were not properly twisted together and covered with wire nut.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

5) Turn switch to ON and test again. Tester should light up on both screws. If switch does not light up on both screws, then switch is bad. Replace switch.

Add a comment if you need more help.
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Installing a 7 day digital wall timer

Swylite LST100 timer has 4 wires. Red, Blue, Black, White
Timer has more wires than wall switch because timer has electric clock inside. And with + series Swylite timer, it also has led bulb that needs power.

Timer can replace ordinary on-off switch
-On-off switch has 2 screws, so 2 wires (plus ground wire) connect to on-off switch
-Three of the four timer wires are used when replacing on-off switch
-Red wire is not used, it is capped off

Timer can replace 3-way switch
-Three way switch has 3 screws, so 3 wires (plus ground wire) connect to 3-way switch
-One of the screws on 3-way switch is colored dark (it is crucial to identify the wire that comes off dark screw so timer can be wired correctly)

Lets replace on-off switch see diagram
Timer black goes to Hot wire
Timer blue goes to Load (light, fan, motor)
Timer white goes to Neutral
Timer red is capped off.

How to check which wire is Hot, Neutral and Load
Switch you are replacing has 2 wires > one is Hot, the other goes to Load
Remove these two wires. Separate wires so you can test. Turn on power. Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power. Test each wire to bare copper wire.
When tester lights up >> that is Hot wire >> please connect this wire to Timer black wire
The other wire goes to Load >> please connect this wire to Timer blue wire.
Now test for Neutral. Test Hot wire to other wires inside box. Neutral should be white. When tester lights up, that is Neutral. Please connect Timer white wire to neutral. IF YOU DO NOT have a neutral, you can connect Timer white to bare ground wire until you have time to drop a Neutral into the box.

Replace a 3-way switch see diagram
Three-way switch has 3 wires.
Identify which wire connects to Dark screw on switch >> and then please connect this wire to Timer Black wire.
Timer white wire connects to Neutral
Timer blue and red wires connect to other two wires that came off switch ... they connect to either one.
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In replacing a broken pull chain (no 3-way power here: simple pull-on/pull-off) on the 3-bulb light fixture of my fan/light combo ceiling appliance, I lost track of how to re-attach the two black wires...

I assume the switch operates the lights only. Besides the ground (green or bare) and the neutrals (4 white wires all connected together), the only wires of interest should be 4 wires (black) from the fixture and the 2 wires on your switch. Of the 4 black wires, one of them is the hot wire and the other 3 connect to the three bulbs. Connect the hot wire to either one of your switch leads and connect the other 3 wires to the other switch lead.
If you don't know which of the 4 black wires is hot you can find it by the process of elimination as follows---- connect any three of the black wires together (then supply power), if nothing lights, then the 4th wire is hot. Otherwise 2 bulbs should light. Remove one wire from this trio. If nothing lights, the wire you just removed is the hot wire. Otherwise, one bulb should light and one of these two remaining wires is the hot wire. Take one of those last two wires and connect it to one of the other bulbs. If it lights, then the wire you just moved is hot. Otherwise the one you left behind is hot. I hope this is helpful. Good luck. Be safe! Al K
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Should a twoway room fixture actually be a three way ?!?!

The leviton 5603 switch described in the header is a three way wall switch.
I think what you are asking about is what electricians refer to as a "three way switch"
This is basically one outlet or device connected to two wall switches. 1) switch, 2) outlet or light fixture, and 3) another wall switch, three components, thus a three way switch. Installing or converting a fixture or outlet from standard to three way is something i would recommend contracting out to a licensed electrician. Unless you are really comfortable with electrical work.
It is a possibility that your wall outlets are already set up to be a three way switch. A lot of houses have this feature especially at the top and bottom of a stairway, depending on when your house was built. If it is not already configured it could mean stringing new wire behind the drywall which most often means tearing some of the drywall out so that it can be stapled to the studs and meet required building codes.
If, before the changes were made, you were able to turn on the light from either of the wall switches then you will only need to connect the wiring correctly at each of the components.
If you google 3-way switch you will find a ton of great info and wiring diagrams that will help you see exactly what goes into making them work, since they can be wired more than one way. It could help you decide whether or not it is a job you want to tackle on your own or if you want to hire a contractor.
Let me know if I didn't explain something clearly.




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I took a three gang face plate of now this switch is number 1 witch operates the hall number two switch operates the sitting room. number three operates the third light in the same room. but number three...

You need to determine where the power is coming into the box. That power line needs to be jumpered to each switch. The black of the lights will go to the other side of each switch. All neutral wires are tied together.

Bob Janelli

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/bob_62dfa2f81bb55288

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