I shorted out the speaker wire going to sub and now the amp doesnot work

First disconnect the CD head unit from the sub amp and see if the other amp works. If yes, the problem is the wires to the amp, the amp itself, or the subs/sub wiring. If no, the problem is the head unit--probably an internal short.
If the other amp works with the sub amp disconnected, reconnect the sub amp to the head unit, but disconnect the sub wires from the amp. Try the CD player. If the amp goes to protect with no speaker wires attached, the amp is bad. If the amp is OK, the problem is the subs or sub wires. Hook the wires up to the amp again, but disconnect them from the speakers. Try the player again. If the amp goes to protect, the problem is the amp wiring. If not, the problem is the subs. Check the impedance of each sub using an ohmmeter to determine which amp is out of spec.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya.

What may of happened if that you got the lacquer finish on the electromagnetic wire to heat up and come apart. At low volume they will still have an electric connection. Because the wire physically came off from the inner housing of the voice coil it is in contact with the side wall of the speaker magnet and is proned to causing a short between coil sets. Your probably running subs with a 4 ohm impedance and when your coils short it acts more like a 2 or 1 ohm speaker. This is similar to whats called a dead short. Since the Independence is dropped to 2 or 1 ohm it is the resistance equivalent of having 2 or 4 subs attached to your amplifier which caused the final transistor bridge to heat up and it can get hot almost instantly. Check your amps outputs individually on a single speaker that you know works perfectly. If your amp does not trip the thermal protection you most likely cooked a speaker beyond usable condition.

Green light on amp?? Seems like your amp is going into thermal overload. Check your power connections, and make sure there are no shorted wires. Hope this helps.

The "safe mode" on your amp usually kicks in for two reasons - the ohm load on the sub is too low for the amp (presenting a "short" to the amp), or it's going into thermal protection because the amp is too hot. From your description, it sounds like there's a short in the wire, the sub's ohm load is too low, or the sub is partially blown.

If you have another sub or speaker, connect it to the amp's output and see if the amp still goes into protection mode. If the amp goes into protection with a known-good speaker, then there may be something wrong with the amp's power supplies. If the amp works properly with another speaker or sub, then I would check the sub that's causing it to short out.

You may also want to check whether or not the amp is over heating by just touching the amp when it goes into protection. If it's just warm, that should be ok - if it's hot, then it might be working too hard. In this case, you may need to check the input voltage (12-14VDC) and the size of the power and ground cables. If your ground isn't properly connected, it can cause weird problems like over heating, shorts, erratic behavior, etc...

bad conection,blown sub,try wires from the one that works on the one that doesnot if it works then the wiring is broken somwhere.

Its probably in the amp if it is you cant do anything about it unless u know anything about amp circuit boards

if you have both amps connected to the same power wire this will happen...run another power wire to the alpine and this should solve the problem.

Short in amp ? try swiching wire's to speaker's around . if other speaker then work's , speaker's are both fine . if not , then short in amp , or blown channel in amp . get new one or find someone who know's more than i do about amp's

Hello adeisenroth,

Sounds like the voice coil(s).

First make sure that the braided wiring going from the sub cone to the voice coil(s) have not come loose. Examine the braided wire all the way from the terminal to the cone. If one or more has come loose, it can sometimes be resoldered. Just be careful with the heat.

If all the wiring is intact, you can check the coils with a multimeter. With the sub disconnected, and the meter set to the lowest resistance scale, test across the speaker terminals. Depending on how the coils are wired you should measeure somewhere between 1 and 4 ohms. If you get "0" or no reading at all, one of the coils is open. If you get "infinity", a coil is shorted. Sometimes only one coil is bad and you can still use the sub, wiring it to the remaining coil only. Once you have determined that one set of coils is either open or short, you can remove the jumper and test each coil individually.

You can test most any speaker voice coil with a small battery. The best to use is the 9V type that has terminals right together. Connect a short piece of speaker wire to the sub terminals, and hold the other end of the "+" wire to the positive battery terminal, then quickly touch and remove the negative battery terminal with the "-" wire. The sub cone should move outward, and you should hear a brief thump. If no cone movement, and no thump, the coil is defective. Do not hold DC to a speaker for any period of time though, just touch and remove. And NEVER use a high-current battery, like a car battery for such a test. If the coil is not already bad, high DC current will damage it.

Either short or open, replacing a voice coil is a job for the Rockford-Fosgate professionals.

In virtually all instances where the protection light is illuminated, the amplifier has gone into protection because the output transistors are shorted. To eliminate external wiring problems do the following.

Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still goes into protect, the amp likely has blown output transistors.

If it does have blown outputs, it's is likely due to the speaker wires shorting together when the woofer was out of the vehicle.