Remove back plate from samsung rsa1wtmh freezer

if the fan is still running when you open the door , the I would be leaving that idea as a last resort
try this
get 2 taper door chocks and put one either side at the back of the fridge
push the cabinet sideways and slip one chock in a bit then do the other side
many noises are from the bottom plate that the compressor is mounted on from tapping on the floor and lifting it a bit stops the noise
the same as when you open the door the pressure on that plate is removed and so it stops hitting the floor

Ok Randy, Lets fix it.

My name is Peter. I am a retired refrigeration field service technician.

You are not getting cooling air to your ice maker freezer compartment. Once again Samsung - bad design - put a ice maker in the fresh food section.

So, you have a ice maker enclosed next to the fresh food section where the recommended temperature setting is 35-40 degrees F.
Where as your recommended freezer temperature is +2/-2 degrees F.

There is a air damper/vent from the bottom freezer in the back of your ice maker housing. Lets remove the ice maker to check for ice build up. On the left hand side of the housing on the wall there is a long narrow cover plate. This is where you connector harness is located. There are 2 screws holding the front end in and a tong and groove tab in the back. Remove the cover plate.

Now, pull the harness out.

Lets remove the ice maker assembly. There are two screws in the front end securing the ice maker to the top of the casing. These screws are recessed. They are either Philips heads or hex heads (1/4"). If they are hex head, he recessed hole diameter is small. Some hex head hand tools will not fit. A screw gun will work or a small outside out side diameter hex head hand tool.

Remove these screws. In the back in each corner is a tong & groove. Pull forward to release the ice maker. Using a small flat head screw driver wedge the wire harness to release. Set the ice maker aside.

Inspect the air vent/damper for ice build up. Use a hair dryer to defrost.

I do not believe you have a automatic damper controlled by a thermistor (temperature sensor). If you do, Remove the damper assembly. Get your multi-meter. Set your meter to the lowest Ohm reading (Omega on your meter) Touch the two probes on your meter together, you meter should read 1.0. Disconnect the 2 motor contacts. On the motor place one probe on one contact and one probe on the other contact. If the meter still reads 1.0 the motor is bad. If the meter reads 0-50 Ohms the motor is good.

If there is no ice buildup & the damper motor checks out, replace the temperature sensor.

You will find getting the wiring back into the side panel will be a little difficult. As usual, Samsung is not service friendly.

Control board has gone bad....

What happens is the defrost is controlled electronically from a circuit board, when this goes bad, the freezer quits defrosting, and freezes the fans that circulate air through the fridge side of things.

To check this, unplug the entire fridge, leave the freezer open, wait for it to defrost a bit, if this causes the fridge to start cooling again when you plug it back in, then its the defrost. You should also see ice crystals on the back of the freezer just under the icemaker.

http://forums.partselect.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/rerifgerator-side-not-below-54-degrees-6699.html

either the return air grill(small grill on the inside wall of fridge) is blocked with a loaf of bread or something, or it's the freezer drain is blocked, some fridges use the drain as a return air vent,after unpluging it from the power point, defrost the fridge a remove the back wall plate (interior) of the freezer , & push something down the drain line like whipper snipper cord etc. then poor really hot water down it, check the drain at the back of the fridge for water running, reassemble the fridge pug it in & you should be sweet

Needs new gas or compressor

TRY SWITCHING OFF FOR TEN MINS THEN TURN BACK ON..

Hi,
hope the following helps you, I had a similar problem with my RSH1 and it took me a few hours searching online before I found the following.
"Hi, I have it on good authority that this is the system check for Samsungs (RS21, SRS20, etc) during normal operation, is to hold the top two buttons down, just until display flashes - this will reset the electronics.
Secondly, if the top two buttons are held down for longer (8 seconds) the display goes blank and will show any error messages in the form of DASHES
I have experimented with unplugging air or frost probes - and the error code you get -on a blank screen is different parts of the last digit lighting up.
Example: when i disconnect the fridge air-probe, shut both doors, hold down top buttons around display - The SIDE of the last "8" digit lights up ! ...strange but true.
But, I need to know what it means when the BOTTOM of the "8" digit lights up"

I am still trying to find a list of the error codes the lines refer to but so far my unit is working fine.
Angus

Sounds like the defrost heater under the freezer coils has burned
out.Remove back freezer panel and check heater with ohm meter

If this was helpful please rate me.
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas
[email protected]

We had the same problem when our was delivered last week. I spoke to Samsung customer services.

They said the roller in the middle of the front is not meant to be there permanently. It is just a transport roller and should be removed once your fridge freezer is in place.

To remove it:-

- unscrew the two white plastic feet at either side of the front until they touch the floor.

- then place a flat end screwdriver in the slots in the feet and continue to unscrew them. They will start to lift the front of the firdge -freezer up until the front roller no longer touches the floor.

-keep doing this (a little bit each side at a time so the fridge -freezer stays level) until the roller is about 15mm off the floor.

- then get a small flat spanner and remove the two small bolts on the metal plate that holds the roller to the bottom of the fridge-freezer.

Once these bolts are removed the roller and plate will drop to the floor and can be removed.

Then using the screwdriver, screw the feet back in until the point when the front of the fridge-freezer is level with the back.

The whole process shouldn't take you longer than 15 minutes.

I asked Samsung why this isn't included in their instruction manual and they couldn't give me an answer which I thought was poor.

I do wonder how many Samsung RSH1 fridge-freezers are out there with the front roller still attached!!!

Sounds like a blocked defrost drain. By "American" I presume you mean side-by-side.
I had a similar problem with a freezer-on-top style Samsung. The solution to that was to defrost the freezer, remove the false backing plate in the freezer (required removal of the ice cube tray. the panel just pops out with a bit of pulling). The drain hole beneath the freezer coils was blocked with ice. This drain passes down into the fridge and then out the back of the fridge into the evaporation pan next to the motor. There is a collector pan under the freezer coils, this and the drain hole were filled with ice. When the freezer goes into its self-defrost cycle the water collects here and then overflows into the fridge.
I removed the ice with hot water/vinegar mixture (so it doesn't re-freeze immediately) and simultaneosuly used a bit of chiselling with a screwdriver to clear the drain plug. I did this from inside the fridge working up the drain hole into the freezer. The whole job took about an hour.