Question about Audio Players & Recorders
Posted by Anonymous on
I would prod and poke the channel with an insulated screwdriver this will cause buzz sounds. This should find the cause of the problem. Remember that the left hand channel is identical so you can compare the right with the left. For example if you get a weird buzz on the right when you touch it, but not on the left at the same point you might have found the faulty part.
Don't go near the power supply section as it's nothing to do with that the fault.
Posted on Oct 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am sure I have fixed this model in the past. A lot of Rotel gear of this vintage, although sounding quite good, had been farmed out to Taiwan for manufacture. This was back in the day before electronics came from China. But the quality of the build was often low grade, and hand assembled with custom made IC's and transistor arrays that are no longer available due to local manufacture(taiwan). Some gear was Japanese and better build quality. Look for a 5 legged transistor (small black bodied device) device, or blackening of the legs of any transistors(black death i call it).Is it possible to post an in focus picture pof the internals to jog my memory on this amp.
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
SOURCE: Have Rotel RB-1080 stereo power
Try to plug a set of headphones into your amp.
If only one is working this means that either you're not getting both signals into the unit (check the signal input connectors, resolder any bad contacts), the signal doesn't get to the preamp or from the preamp into the power amp or the signal does not come from the power amp (check solder connections on preamp and power amp components, also check internal connectors - unplug, clean, reconnect).
If both headphones work well instead, then you're getting both signals into the unit and the preamplifier and the final amplifier are OK, since many amps derive headphone signal from the power amplifier via some power resistors - check for any power resistors around the headphone plug or in the section that has wires going to the headphones plug to see if this is the case - if it is, this means that the signal does get amplified, but it is not getting from the power amp to the speaker - in this case, check the following:
--- speaker connector solder contacts on the circuit board could have some damage - resolder if necessary
--- A / B speakers selector switch (if there is one, it could be a physical switch or a soft touch button driven relay so check for both) - there might be a bad solder contact on the switch pins or the switch / relay contacts may be dirty - resolder and/or clean the contacts (if they can be easily accessed).
--- final amplifier section: bad solder contacts on any power transistors, voltage regulators, power resistors, diodes, coils or other components, including internal connectors (anyway, if both headphones work well, these are all unlikely because the power amp is sending both signals out OK, however, you may want to give it a check, just in case...)
--- delayed speaker turn on relay or other relays - check for dirty relay contacts, clean with some fine sandpaper (you need to remove the relay cover which can be a bit tricky / difficult to access, mostly it's a snap-on cover, could also be resin filled and therefore impossible to open).
It could as well be a bad power amp (do the headphones test), the above suggestions are just a quick look at some common audio amp problems and possible solutions.
Also, if your unit has got many hours of use, it would be fair to check the input signal connectors - the solder contacts do get damaged when you plug / unplug the RCAs many times.
Hope all of this is not getting too lenghty and confusing... just post me some feedback if you have questions.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
Crackling is usually a dirty control. Try using an electronics cleaner (with lubricant) and spray out all of the controls and switches. With the unit off, work the controls and switches back and forth to "spread" the lubricant. I would spray, work and spray again.
Update this with the results and also see if the crackling is related to the overall volume level. If tied to the volume level, there could be a transistor inside that is breaking down and causing distortion.
Posted on Dec 28, 2009
That must be the inrush current.
Maybe you are using the wrong fuses.
Please check if those are fast or slow types.
You need slow types.
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
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