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There are plenty of reasons this could happen like the following:
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Loud operating sound level
• See "Sound Information" section for explanation of normal operating sounds
Freezer too warm. Compressor not operating
• Freezer temperature set too warm
• Defective compressor
• Defective overload or relay
Refrigerator too cold
• Refrigerator temperature set too cold
• Chefs Pantry control set too cold or misaligned allowing freezer air to escape into refrigerator section
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Restricted condenser air
• Refrigerant shortage or restriction
• Refrigerant overcharge
Freezer too warm. Compressor cuts off on overload
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
• Restricted condenser air
• Defective condenser fan motor
• Loose or missing condenser fan blade
• Improper voltage
• Defective relay or overload
• Compressor motor winding
• Non-condensibles in system
• Refrigerant overcharge
Freezer too warm. Compressor operating
• Freezer temperature set too warm
• Restricted condenser air
• Defective condenser fan motor
• Opened door
• Heavy usage
• Defective freezer fan motor
• Opened defrost thermostat
• Opened defrost heater
• Loose or missing freezer or condenser fan blade
• Heavily frosted evaporator
• Refrigerant shortage or restriction
• Inefficient compressor
Refrigerator too warm
• Refrigerator temperature set too warm
• Freezer temperature set too warm
• Return air or air supply duct blocked
• Chefs Pantry control set too warm or air supply tube blocked
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
Problem
Possible Cause
Freezer too cold
• Freezer temperature set too cold
Long off cyde
• Low ambient
• Freezer temperature set too warm
Short off cycle
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Light constantly on
• Poor door gasket seal
Long or continuous run cyde
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
• Inadequate condenser air flow
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Loss or restricted refrigerant
Short run cycle
• Light usage
• Low ambient
• Freezer temperature set too warm
Exterior cabinet condensation
• High humidity. Design accepts beads of water on cabinet exterior after 4 hours with 0° to 2°F (-18° to -17°C) freezer food temperature and 38° to 40°F (3° to 4°C) refrigerator food temperature in 84% R.H. conditions. See "Typical Sweat Pattern" section under above conditions.
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Poor door gasket seal
• Insulation void
If the ref or freezer is too warm and you turn the dial to make it colder the compressor should come on. If the ref or freezer is not cold like you say the compressor should be on all the time. You should hear it, but you can definitely feel it and it should be very warm after a short while. If the compressor does not get warm unplug the ref with the compressor running and plug it back in immediately. A good compressor should not start up right away. If it is running and not getting warm and does start right up after unplugging it and plugging it back in it is inefficient and not compressing the freon gas enough and therefore not cooling enough. The fan in the freezer should be running as should the fan under the refrigerator. The condenser should be warm and the fan should be blowing[drawing] air across it when the compressor is on. You don\'t repair compressors and to recharge them correctly is expensive.
the ptc overload/relay on the compressor is bad and not starting the compressor,remove back cover unplug the ptc off the compressor and replace it with a new exact replacement part
Check compressor working. If not try with replacing relay. If compressor working, check warm in condenser coil by keeping your hand. If warm, check whistling sound in freezer. If no warm gas leak. If warm and no whistling sound in freezer, chocked system. For gas leak find leak and arrest. Then vacuum and do gas charging. For chock, release all gas, flush out system, replace filter drier, vacuum and do gas charging. Call professional repairman to do it. Thanks.
1. Check power to relay. 2.Check compressor is working by holding amps meter in phase or neutral wire. 3. If compressor is not working, replace relay and check. If compressor working check gas in the system by holding your hand on condenser coil. It should be warm. If no warm, no gas. If warm and check for whistling sound in freezer. If no sound system chock. Call repairman to rectify. 4. Check defrost timer and thermostat or on. If it's not solved the problem, please write clearly type of problem you faced. Thanks.
It could be the compressor or the start relay. If you hear a click sound, then your relay is good and your compressor is shot. If you do not hear a clicking sound, then your compressor is good and your relay is shot. Also check to make sure that under operation even if the compressor does not work the fan should still be spinning, even if it is warm air. Please rate
Heat exchanger was iced over, took a hair dryer and melted ice. I think defrost heater element is bad will check it this week end. I put a new computer in the frige about 3 mounths ago and will check if it has gone bad. The compressor is working fine.
A) The warm air that is being expelled from your dehumidifier is normal. When the unit is dehumidifying the compressor is working which causes the compressor to become quite hot. In order to avoid having the compressor overheat, air is drawn by the compressor at a rapid rate and the heat is then transferred to the air which must be expelled from the unit. The warm air will stop shortly after the unit has reached the desired humidity. This warm air should not change your room temperature by more than a degree or two.
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