Location of pump oil input valve

Replace them

Hi Mike -

First, thanks for your service! I am not familiar with this particular furnace (but this is not my main line of work either) and the literature on their site is pretty tough to view and non-technical.

Does the furnace have a oil burner manufacturer name & model number such as "Beckett AFG" like those shown here:

http://www.beckettcorp.com/product2/product.asp?prodid=1

Also of importance to know is the oil pump brand and model. Popular brands are Beckett, Suntec, Danfoss, etc. Without knowing these pieces of information, no one can reliably tell you what needs to be done. The generic process is below - but please re-read the previous sentence.

Finally, you need to determine if you have a one pipe system - or two pipes. Simply check for fuel line(s) between the tank and burner. If one - it's a 1 pipe system, if two - it's a 2 pipe system. Two pipe systems are self priming; if you don't run out of oil, or have "service" with your oil company this won't be a problem - otherwise it may be a just a minor inconvenience. The one pipe systems are more popular as they cost less to install.

On a one pipe system, we need only be concerned with the input, nozzle and bleeder valve / ports of the pump. Connect the fuel supply line from the fuel storage tank to the input or inlet port. Connect the nozzle port of the pump to the oil burner fitting that delivers fuel oil to be burned in the furnace chamber. The bleeder valve should be closed until ready to prime the pump. All other unused ports must be plugged - otherwise a mess will result.

A two pipe system provides a fuel supply path to burner and back to tank. The connections are the same as above - but we connect the second line to the pump as well. The fuel supply line has the inline filter and provides fuel to the input or inlet of the pump as you might have guessed. The unfiltered line connects to the port marked bypass or return (depending on the pump model, etc.) to return unused oil to the tank. This two pipe system help ensure that the pump is always flooded with oil and is always primed and ready as a result. The bleeder valve should be closed until ready to prime the pump. All other unused ports must be plugged - otherwise a mess will result.

Most companies prohibit use of teflon tape on threads. These are NPT type threads, so they should seal fine without tape or compounds when snugged up tight.

Please see if someone can help you with this before attempting. A 2nd set of eyes can help "catch" something you might have otherwise missed. Good luck!

Additionally, the company can be contacted directly here:
http://www.axeman-anderson.com/contactus.html

year, make, model, engine size?

How does it run?

Do you see a lot of black smoke out the tailpipe when you accelerate?

do you see anything leaking?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Actually, there is a bleeder valve on the pump you are referencing. It's located directly on top of the pump and the air (with some oil) comes out the nipple looking part just below and to the left of the bleed off valve 1/2" nut.

Hi Lee, There are two oil pressure relief valves on most vehicles. One is fitted onto the oil pump assembly and another onto the oil filter housing assembly. The oil pump pressure relief valve is located at the front of the engine and is accessed via a blind nut on the side of the unit. The bolt is in the form of a cap, which when removed can be seen to be holding down under tension a spring, which in turn presses the valve. If the pressure becomes too high the valve body is pushed upwards and releases an amount of oil, thereby maintaining the required pressure. The valve built into the oil filter housing works in much the same way, but its job is to allow oil circulation in the event of a blocked oil filter. regards John

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperture Sensor - Circuit High Input
P0301 - Cylinder 1- Misfire Detected
P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Switch Circuit Malfuction (PRNDL Input)

P0118 - Replace Engine coolant Temperture sensoe located by thermostat housing (upper ragiator hose connects to) sensor is 1 where wire loom lays nect to valve cover.

P0301 - bad spark plug/wire, remove #1 cylinder plug wire inspect for oil on wire (if have oil on wire, valve cover gasket leaking, needs to be replaced) if no oil, inspect plug, replace plugs if needed.

P0705 - bad neutral safty switch (Transmission Range Switch) located on Right Side of Automantic Transmission (by shifter cable)

oil pressure is mechanically controlled by a valve inside oil pump. if it is not leaking it is ok to drive to have it replaced. mainly used as input to computer and for your gauge

The oil will be in the stainless steel or silver colored part of the pump. If there is no access to this part then the oil is put in there by the manufacturer. I believe the small red plastic plug you speak of covers the overheat blow off valve. Just leave it. When you run the washer for a long time you may see some water spill out of there. The only way to change the oil is to separate the two pump sections. Not advisable without some knowledge and the correct tools

the oil pressure switch is on pssenger side, lower engine area,beside oil filter, mounted in engine block. The pressure relief valve is in the oil pump, in which case, you have to drop the oil pan,and take off the oil pump.

The oil pressure release valve is located behind a large 3/4 lug on the oil pump, if you raise your vehicle and locate the oil filter, look up and to the right of the pressure sender switch, this nut should face to the rear of the of the car, undo it but have a cloth handy as oil will spill quite heavy from this once removed. Inside there will be a spring, remove the spring and to follow will be the valve, if the valve has a problem feed then you will have some trouble removing. Use a scribe to remove along with some (INOX) spray, spray it into the location and leave it for about 20 mins.