Neer the end of the cycle (last 6 min or so), it stops, beeps F06

ADD= automatic dry detector this would explain why it stops after 5 min , must be a fault with that

ive had to clean them off inside the drum many times with glass cleaner (nothing stinky) or it will transfer to clothes

mounted just under the lint trap is two shiny steel bars , or some models it's in the back near the center softener sheets come off and coat them up

Check the wire harness that goes to all your connectors on the Motor, MCU, and CCU. I have seen a loose wire connector do this F06 error.

If all checks ok, then its either a faulty MCU, or faulty drive motor.

Try this:
Possible Causes / Procedure1. Verify the shipping system including shipping bolts, spacers
and cables are removed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and
the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the
Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
6. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/11384-front-load-maytag-what-error-code-f06.html#ixzz33vFGkt1n
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

Check your vent. Inspect the dryer venting from the rear of the dryer to the outside vent hood of the home.
If there's a restriction in the vent--the clothing in the dryer takes longer to dry.
When an LG dryer is functioning normally---the time required to dry laundry is determined by the *Sensor* located on the drum side of the lint filter housing and by the main control board.
When laundry is near dry--any Time Remaining on the control panel that is *not* needed will be eliminated---except for the last 6 minutes.
The final 6 minutes of any LG automatic cycle is for cooling down the laundry before the dryer ends the cycle.
If a dryer *counts down* to the last 6 minutes but the laundry is still not dry--the computer will allow the dryer to run until the laundry has dried or defaults (not drying within the additional time allowed).
Dryer vents that are longer than 8 feet with more than (2) 90 degree turns--can affect drying performance.
Setting the DRY LEVEL selector to *Very Dry* will solve most dryability issues. In homes with abnormally long vents--even the longer run time in the *Very Dry* setting is usually not sufficient to dry laundry loads.
Reducing the length of the vent or starting a second cycle becomes necessary to fully dry the clothing.
If a second cycle was started---only the amount of time that is needed to dry laundry will be used before dropping to 6 minutes and then the cycle will end with dry laundry. Bonus:
LG DRYER

Problem:
The dryer has an auto dry feature which never fully dries the clothes so we wind up manually setting the dry time to an hour.
Solution:
LG gas dryers are VERY temperamental in long vent set-ups. If fabric softener sheets are used in the dryer--clean the two stainless steel strips of metal on the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD--scrub back & forth several times to remove the waxy residue from the fabric softener sheets. Most,if not all manufacturers do *not* recommend using sheets in dryers that have a moisture sensor (electrodes).
However--using a SCOTCHBRITE pad keeps the wax off those sensors which can be seen if looking *into* the dryer drum and at the lint filter housing.
If only *liquid* fabric softener is used in the washer--clean the dryer sensors once a month. Liquid softener also contains wax which can slowly accumulate on the dryer sensors from the laundry washed in the washer.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check things like the Filter / clear fluff...Make sure outlet hose if any is not kinked and passing air..Hope this helps..

washer is not spinning out ..

first check your drain pump there is a coin trap .Under the front panel. remove the three screws and you can clean it out

Press "end of cycle". Plug off the wall. Code can be an indication of several issues. The most common cause is over-sudsing in the machine. Overloading the wash with too much laundry may also cause the LE error code. Lastly, a breakdown in the signal between the microprocessor and the motor may cause that error code. This can occur if there is a loose wire, see that all wires are tightened..........
And rate me pl ...........if helped.

try an emptyhot wash with some limescale remover in approx quater of a litre, let it run all the way through the wash then put on another rinse to clear out system. check the next water fill for any debris/lint left.

This is the fix for the HE3T Sears front loading washing machine with a bad odor problem. We HAD this same problem but now it is fixed. You don't need to call the repair man, it's just a waste of time, money and endless frustration. Tools: 9/32 socket or T-20 torx head bit. Bunch of rags you don't want when you're all finished. *****UN-PLUG THE WASHER****** Lay on the floor in front of the washer and look under the lower panel. You will see three silver colored torx head screws, one on the left, right and center. Loosen these up with your socket or torx head wrench. Remove the lower front cover and set it aside. See all the wires? Did you make sure to UN-PLUG the washer? Good. Now look at the center of the bottom of the washer. You will notice a white cylindrical contraption. This is a drain trap where all of the junk from your washer gets hung up so it won't clog up the water pump that discharges the water from your washer. On the front of this drain trap is an access cap. BEFORE you open this place the rags under the trap, along the sides and under the washer. Trust me, you'll thank me later. Now open the drain trap access cap by turning it counter clockwise. Be prepared for some smelly water to come out, probably 1-2 cups worth. Once the water is drained, pull the trap completely out. You'll find the reason your washer stinks in the trap. We had a blob of black goo and a security label from an article of clothing we bought. That was the culprit. The drain trap was "trapping" all of this junk and getting real funky. Now clean the drain trap out with hot soapy water and a little bleach. Clean out the cylinder where the drain was. Wipe it out with a rag soaked in bleach and soap. Once everything is clean, replace the drain trap and tighten it down. Do not over tighten this or the seal may leak. Replace the front cover and the three torx head screws. Plug the washer back in. Run the washer through the SANITARY CYCLE with bleach. Your problem is solved