Why is my spin tub filling along side the wash tub and the wash tub draining along side the spin cycle?

The indication you state is consistant with the washer sensing water in the tub. If there is no water in the tub, then it would be the tub sensor. If there is water in the tub, and the spin cycle doesn't get it out, then I would look at the pump or the control board.

You have a bad pressure switch or the small hose connecting to the pressure switch may be bad

If the washer leaks water when is filling only, check the following: 1.Fill hoses
2.The water mixing valve
3.Filling injector ( If your washer uses one )
4.Filling spout

If the washing machine leaks during the wash cycle, check the following:
1.The pump
2.The tub stem & seal
3.Tub to pump hose
4.The drain hose
5.Tub (rusted holes)
6.The drum support bolts

If the washing machine leaks during the spin cycle, check the following:
1.The drain hose
2.The tub cover seal
3.The pump
4.The pump hoses
5.The stem & seal
6.The drum support bolts

Remove the front panel of the washer by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips, located in the seam between the front panel and the washer's top, about 2 inches in from each side. With an empty wash tub, remove the small hose on the left side of the outer tub and clean out the inside of the hose. Replace the hose. Test.

This may be caused by a pressure switch malfunction or a water inlet valve that is leaking by. The following link explains how you can determine which one may be causing your problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3753517-whirlpool_top_load_washer_fills_when_not

Is this a simple problem of the washer continuing to fill with water when its not in use? Does the washer overflow? Does the water shut off after the cycle ends? These are some good questions that can help lead you in the right direction.

Check the small air hose that runs from the bottom right hand side of the wash tub to the pressure swtich. If this hose has come loose from the pressure switch, or from the air dome on the wash tub, the pressure switch will not sense the pressure differential coming from the wash tub as the unit fills. Also, if the air hose is cracked, ripped, split, or clogged somewhere, you will get the same symptoms.

If you need further assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) so that I can determine how your washer is configured. I hope this helps lead you in the right direction.

The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Where you attached the new hose on the side of the tub, you must remove that hose and insert a small wire in the hole in the cup and clean out the soap scum. Re-attach the hose. Set the washer on spin and run a spin cycle. Then retry your wash cycle.
Make sure the new hose is not pinched anywhere.

TAKE BACK OFF LOCATE CLEAR HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO PRESSURE SWITCH REMOVE FROM SWITCH AND BLOW OR USE SMALL BLAST COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAR IT OF THE CLOG THAT IS LOCATED IN THE CUP TO TUB. POWDER DETERGENTS LIKE TO CREATE A CLOG IN THAT CUP. RUN SMALL HOT WASH CYCLE NO CLOTHES

remove front cover by sliding putty knife along top edge and pressing down on clips pull front off ck small hose attached to tub on left side look for a dark build up in tube pull off and clean..blockage will cause water level switch not to sense full tub of water..if tub just never fill ck drain hose for correct height from floor and loose fit in standpipe

Please fill your washer with a very small amount of water, turn it to spin and tilt it back. You should be able to see the belt on the bottom turning your pump. I ask you to verify this because imporper belt tension or a bad thrust bearing can keep it from turning improperly. If it turns freely on this test, Then you have something plugged up. Drain the water out. Next unhook the hose that goes between the tub and the pump at the tub side. You can get sock or other small articals of clothing in there that will prevent draining. If that is clear. It is likely you have had another coin go through your hose that goes between the pump and the wall. They can get quite a ways in there and maytag hoses get smaller right before they end. If you have a coin in this area you will need to work it all of the way back to the pump side of the hose.

Okay...my experience with this model front loader leads to the following possible problems:

CAUTION: UNPLUG the washer if you plan to service the interior. It is dangerous to have your hands inside the unit with moving parts and energized. Plug the washer back in and stand back if you plan on doing any operation checks.

1. Door bellow ripped or torn (this is the gray rubber boot around the door - open the door and inspect along the entire door boot. Including the areas behind the rubber fold where the rubber meets the wash tub. It is common for them wear out and tear. NOTE: Make sure the fill hose on the left-hand side of the door boot is fully snug in place. Sometimes it will come loose and leak BEHIND the door boot.

2. Drain pump or hoses leaking - You will need to remove the lower panel under the door to see inside the washer. Remove the three torx type screws under the front lip at the bottom of the panel. For easier access, place a small block of wood under each front foot. The washer is heavy so you may need assistance to lift the front slightly. CAUTION: Do not lift on the door, push on the door panel or control panel. If the panel sticks, slightly tap on the sides and it will drop down and come off. The pump is located in the front under the wash tub. Make sure the clean out trap is snug and all your hoses are tight and not torn. Check the drain hose that leads out of the back of the washer from the drain pump to ensure it is not cracked.

3. Air Dome hose has come loose from the tub - This will be a small rubber hose connected to a plastic piece (called an air dome) on the right-hand side of the wash tub as you are looking in from where you removed the bottom panel. It should be located behind the drain pump and mounted physically to the wash tub. The other end of this hose runs to the pressure switch, which turns the water flow off when the washer tub fills to the approriate level. If this hose comes off, the washer will start to leak on the FILL cycle and will not shut off. I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is still worth a look since you have the panel opened.

4. Tub seal leaking or tub cracked - These would be the most undesirable of all possible problems because it would require the removal of the entire wash tub in order to correct. Inspect the wash tub seam and make sure there's no water coming from around the tub.

I hope this gives you a few possible items to work with. Inpsect the washer interior when you get the panel off and post back if you can determine where the leak is coming from.

HELPFUL HINT: Put the washer into diagnostics mode if you plan to leak test. At the control panel select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, however). "C00" will be displayed on the operator console, and you will hear the door latch engage. The washer will run through a series of tests by filling using hot and cold water, checks all your dispenser features, tumbles the drum, spins and drains. This diagnostics can be stopped at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice. The drain pump will come on and drain the washer.

I hope this helps you...