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Try here or here
http://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.pl?pg=topics
I'm sure it's bypassing some wiring on the PTO switch
SOURCE: I have a Cub Cadet RZT 50 mower. The left drive
First, check the level of the hydraulic fluid (usually the dipstick is right inside the fill cap, and you just raise the seat to access it). If it's low, fill 'er up with the right fluid.
If that's OK, test if the lack of 'pull' affects the left wheel in both forward and reverse -- try going up a hill forward, and backing up it in reverse. If it affects both directions, maybe you will be lucky -- the problem could be that the bypass for the left hydraulic motor has opened somehow. (The bypass is used to let you push the mower by hand in case of an engine failure, etc.) So look for a fat-headed bolt sticking out of the left hydraulic motor. Check that it's tight -- rotate it just like you would tighten a bolt, clockwise. If it wasn't tight, that may be the problem; just tighten it and try the mower.
If this doesn't resolve it, you probably have a problem in the hydraulic valves, hoses, or motor, and a trip to the dealer is needed. Probably won't be cheap, sorry my friend. Good luck, and please rate if this was helpful, thanks!
SOURCE: I have a cub cadet model 1420 with hydrostatic
i had exmark hydros i was told to never wash them, the water does more damage than good. have you checked or changed your hydostatic oil and filter latley? if you have, when doing that you have to be very careful not to get any foriegn objects in the oil resevoir, dirt, grass clipings, anything will ruin the hydro pump.
SOURCE: I have a 2006 Cub Cadet RZT 42 Zero Turn Mower
you have a wire that is grounding out, I would check the wire coming from the connector on the voltage regulator to the battery. This is the one in the middle position, look for a rub through and tape it up.
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SOURCE: I have a cub cadet RZT 50 mower deck and my
Hi,
The problem is the clutch it's self... it is slipping and when it gets too hot it just quits...
The clutch will need to be replaced and that often is not a fun job. You also should have specialty tools to do the job, as they are very hard to get off the shaft many times... the same heat that stops the clutch, almost welds it too the shaft...using heat to free it therefore does not work like it normally would.
Just for giggles a grins, check for power to the clutch after is stops...I think you will find that it is still getting power to it, it just is not engaging or staying engaged anymore...
heatman101
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