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The fast answer is no. This miniStack is not a network-attached storage (NAS) device.
However some of the newer Wi-Fi routers that also offer excellent network storage (NAS) features when coupled with an external hard drive.
Additionally depending on your operating system, you can have a local area network (LAN) with your main computer (hub), with the miniStack attached to it, and have the second computer access the HDD through an older (non-NAS) router. The second computer access would slower than the HUB.
1. Disconnect printer from AC power (take out AC
cord or power off your power strip). Disconnect USB PC cable fromprinter. 2. Press and HOLD the POWER button (untill step
7). 3. Reconnect power cord (turn on power) to the
printer. 4. The indicator should be green. 5. Press and release the RESUME button , the
indicator should be orange. 6. Press and release the RESUME button again, the
indicator should be green. 7. NOW Release POWER buttons. 8. NOW Connect the printer to PC (USB cable). 9. NOW...I opened "Printers" and saw
that a "copy" of my printer (i250 or i350) had been made. Make that
COPY your default printer and all should work...It did for me.
I must say...I went into the "GUTS" of
the beast and cleaned out the PADS (they are actually vacuum pads that the INK
is sucked through during a HEAD cleaning) a very messy undertaking.
It would be worth checking/replacing the ignition module ( see if you have a spark when it WON'T start) . Coil assy are plentiful and the most likely given your description. Very prone to over heating and shutting down. Good luck
Maybe it's not running lean. Maybe it's misfiring. Since you put in new fuel parts and that didn't help, maybe there is an ignition component that fails when it gets hot. A bad coil can do this, also the igniter-rarely, admittedly, but you could have it tested. When it stalls and won't start, if you check for spark and find none, it would confirm an ignition problem. I hope you find it. Post back and let us know.
It is most likely Carbureter Iceing. Most likely the "heat riser" has been disconnected from either end (where it attaches to the Air Cleaner, or where it connects to the Exhaust Manifold.
Not too sure about Toyota's but sounds like the computer has "forgotten how to idle". Fords do this when the battery is disconnected, as did some Cadillac's. Ford's solution is to let it idle for 15 minutes to "re-learn" operational characteristics of the engine. Found the following elsewhere: Disconnecting the battery (for longer than a few moments) causes the onboard Engine Control Computer to reset and forget all the calibration data for your car. (In much the same way that you might have to re-program your favorite radio station push-buttons again.)
When you re-connect the battery and re-start the car, it has to "re-learn" all the correct settings for your particular car's engine all over again and the only way that happens is by actually using the car. Taking the car to the dealer as someone else suggested won't do any good, unless you like paying $65+ per hour for the mechanic to drive your car around and get it all warmed up. :-)
After about the first 10 miles, the idle will be much better. It will take 30-50 miles for the entire re-calibraton to finish. Take a 25 mile interstate road trip one way, turn around and come back home.
You probably mean your defroster, as this is a very common problem after the battery is disconnected. Your defroster uses the A/C to dry the air. Clean your throttle body with battery disconnected. Battery must be disconnected for at least an hour, but if you take the throttle body off (best way to clean it) 1 hour won't be a problem. Computer learned some bad habits, when you hooked the battery back up, it though it was getting good signals from a clean throttle body. Your throttle body is filthy, therefore you have the exact problems you described. When finished drive around for 15 min with all HVAC, A/C controls OFF. This will allow the computer to relearn a properly functioning tb.
Sounds like you have a hardware failure either in the drive enclosure or the hard drive itself.
I suspect you may get lucky and find out it's just some of the circuitry in the smartdisk shell that is damaged.
Take the Smartdisk unit to your nearest PC shop and ask the technicians there to remove the Hard Drive and put it in a new enclosure to test it. If it works in the new enclosure, buy the enclosure and your done. If it doesn't work in the new enclosure then you may be suffering from worse issues that will require the help of a pro.
Either way let me know how you make out, if you need a pro for the next step, reply back with you location(Country, State, City) and I will refer you to the closest facility who can assist you.
Fooling with the battery cable only fixes the problem because it wastes time while the car is flooded. Instead... pretend like you are fooling with the battery cable and then after a couple minutes, try starting the car again. It will start.
There are many things to check. Most commonly, the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, it's the hardest to replace. It will take about 1 hour to replace if you have the right harmonic balancer puller. Other things to check that are easier...
Most of the time this problem is fixed by replacing the Crank sensor, but not always. Lesson learned here... Never buy a GM again.
Luckily your heated seats haven't caught fire and burned your clothing and your back. If it ever does happen... do yourself a favor, let it burn and get a new car (not another GM.)
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