When i start my compressor, it works just fine, but before even builds pressure the thermal protector trips, should i replace it? or what its the problem?
I would bypass the thermal safety and test the unit. Does it go to proper pressure? run it through two cycles. If it looks good, reconnect the temp sensor and use it until a new one can be obtained.
SOURCE: air compressor problem
Cheap oil-less compressor, normal.
If you don't like it, buy one that uses oil and a drive belt.
SOURCE: Compressor builds pressure, but does not shut off
Hitachi builds a very nice compressor, however suffers from the same problem that all brands will eventually encounter. Failure of the pressure switch. The pressure switch is a very hard working component of the unit. Depending on use, the pressure switch may cycle from as little as two or three cycles a day to as many as dozens per hour. The pressure switch has springs, contacts and unloader features that eventually wear out. The two most common failures are the contacts and the rubber diaphragm that acts against the springs to shut the unit down. Sometimes the screws securing the base of the switch the inlet port come loose and cause the problem that you are having. (The rubber diaphragm is between the base inlet port and the switch) Simple test is to spray soapy water around base of switch to check for leaks. Replace the switch as necessary with a SquareD brand available at www.grainger.com instead of factory unit to save money and increase life. You may have to make simple modifications however the money saved will be worth it. Choose a pressure switch with cut-off range between 120-139 psi. The higher the cutout switch setting you choose the shorter lifespan for your compressor. Your compressor works harder and gets hotter when achieving higher pressures. Try to use either no extension or shortest cord possible to max life of unit and compressor oil instead of motor oil to prevent carbon deposits. Good luck and email if you have questions about your Hitachi.
SOURCE: wont build air pressure
Your problem falls into one of two categories the first is the tank is leaking the second is the compressor is leaking. Try this run the compressor for a minute or two and turn it off if to hear a hiss the tapers off slowly your tank is leaking some were check the drain on the bottom of the tank, the pressure relief valve on the top or side of the tank and all other connections between the compressor and tank.
In the event there is no hiss this means the problem is the compressor you may have a bad reed valve or a bad check valve depending on the type of compressor.
hope this helps
SOURCE: pressure switch out of adjustment
Before you adjust the perssure switch, make sure that the intank check valve is not leaking pressure back to the pressure switch after it cuts off at 140psi. The check valve should hold pressure at 140psi. Follow the discharge airline to the tank to find the checkvalve (either chrome or brass with large cap). To check for leaking valve, run compressor till shut-off at 140, then unplug the compressor from wall and remove the 1/4 air fitting at the checkvalve and check for leak. If leaking, replace valve and leave the pressure switch at present setting. You should be good to go. Good Luck with your repair and email if you have questions.
SOURCE: compressor runs fine builds up pressure then will
PRESSURE SWITCH IS BAD. NOT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY, POINTS ARE STUCK/WELDED TOGETHER OR THE NIPPLE UNDER IT IS CLOGGED. DRAIN PRESSURE AND REMOVE PRESSURE SWITCH. KNOW YOUR UNITS PSI AND TAKE THE SWITCH WITH YOU TO MATCH. IF YOU WANT TO INVESTIGATE FURTHER BEFORE YOU BUY, LOOK IN THE SIDE OF THE SWITCH AND YOU WILL SEE THE POINTS. THEY SHOULD BE TOUCHING WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO RUN AND SEPERATED WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO CUT OFF. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY
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