Leviton 5634 Dual 1 Pole Switch Decora Combo Device Logo
A
Anonymous Posted on Aug 30, 2014

How to connect a receptacle to a leviton combination switch

Supply in have 4 wires, black, white red and copper

1 Answer

Gene Haynes

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  • Leviton Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2014
Gene Haynes
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Only possible if box has neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-add-outlet.html
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 152 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 20, 2009

SOURCE: 4 way switch

4wy.gif

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Anonymous

  • 1865 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 02, 2009

SOURCE: wiring a leviton 5625-W switch receptacle combination

You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.

You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire

VtToolMan

Mark

  • 704 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2009

SOURCE: I am replacing a combination 2 switch using a

First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8935&section=10070

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

john h

  • 29494 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 30, 2010

SOURCE: I have a Leviton 5634

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

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Hi, I am trying to install a Leviton time switch. in the wall box I have a single black, a single white and a copper wire. Here's how I plan to wire it up: wall switch black (hot) ...

The white wire is used to power electronics inside timer:

Single pole switch has two insulated wires.
Remove both insulated wires from switch.

Timer black connects to one of the insulated switch wires, or to Hot wire from breaker
Timer red connects to the other insulated switch wire, or to Load wire going to fan, light, motor.
Timer white connects to Neutral wire from breaker box. Neutrals are white wires that are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
If box does not have Neutral wires, then connect timer white wire to bare ground wire.
Timer green connects to bare ground.

Turn power on, and check if timer is working. If timer is not working, then reverse timer black and timer red wires.
This wiring information has been tested and is accurate.
If timer does not function correctly with correct wiring, then move timer to another location to see if timer is defective, if timer does not work on specific Load, then noise or interference on line can be suspect. Also check ratings for timer and compare with Load ratings.

If you have countdown timer connected to whole house motor/fan, then horsepower rating is important consideration. If timer is rated 1/6 HP and whole house fan is 1/2 HP, then timer will not work.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html
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The switch I am replacing has two red plugged into the back and two black plugged into the one below. If I want to keep the same set up I can just connect the two red to the top brass screw and the two...

You are trying to replace a 4-way switch with a receptacle. The best that you can hope for is a switched receptacle. In the same box you should see two white wires wirenutted together. That is the neutral. You will have to pigtail off of the whites wires to the silver (or white, neutral) screw on the receptacle using the same gauge wire. Then, pick a pair, say the two blacks, and wirenut them together with a pigtail to the brass screw (hot) on the receptacle. To finish, wirenut the two reds together. Do not connect them to anything. Don't forget to also pigtail the (bare) ground to the green screw on the receptacle.
As a result, you will find that the receptacle will only work when one of the other 3-way light switches in the circuit are operated, again, this is NOT best practice, but will accomplish what you are trying to do.
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Wiring of the 2-5-10-15 timer to a jucuzee bath tub it has three wires black blue green. Thanks. Terry.

First thing to consider is size of Load.
Leviton countdown-timer Load rating is 1800 Watt, 120Volt.
Look inside Jacuzzi at rating plate on motor.
Rating plate on motor should give Volts, Watts and Amps.
Formula Volts x Amps = Watts.
Sometimes motor shows VA which is Watts
Is Jacuzzi on 240Volt breaker or 120V breaker?
Leviton countdown timer is not for 240V load.

A) If 120Volt electric Load checks out, here's how to wire timer if 1 cable enter box.
Timer-black-wire connects to jacuzzi-black
Timer-white-wire connects to ground.
Timer-green connects to ground.
Timer-red connects to jacuzzi-blue.

B) Here's how to wire timer if 2 cables enter box.
120Volt cable coming from breaker box has black, white and bare copper wire.
Timer-black-wire connects to black-wire-from-breaker
Timer-white-wire connects to white-wire-from-breaker-box.
Timer-green and jacuzzi-ground connect to ground

Timer-red-wire connects to jacuzzi-black-wire.

Jacuzzi-blue-wire connects to white.
I am puzzled why this wire is blue if circuit is 120Volt.
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I have a combination single pole switch. Light switch and receptacle. In have running in the old box 2 white, 2 black and a ground. How do I install the new switch to have power to the light switch and...

You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral
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Switch has 2 black wires. One black is hot wire. One black is wire going to fan. Turn off power. Remove wires from switch and separate. Turn power back on. Using ordinary tester, test each black wire to bare copper ground wire. Only one of the black wires will test hot. The other black wire goes to fan.
Timer black wire connects to black hot
Timer blue wire connects to black wire going to fan
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I don't understand your problem. Green wire is ground goes to the yoke. it should not have any current on it If it does sumbody messed up real bad!
a combo outlet/switch has three brass screws and one nickel screw. yoke should have a green hexagonal screw.
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I am replacing a combination 2 switch using a

First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8935&section=10070

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
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You are correct in assuming green is the ground and connects to bare copper wire. Black is always the HOT wire and should be attached to the black wire. Red wire connects to white wire.
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Wiring a leviton 5625-W switch receptacle combination

You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.

You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire
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Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart lock GFCI Outlet Leviton-

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