IS IT WORTH TO FIX A CONTROL VALVE OR BUY A NEW WATER TANK

Whirlpool sold the AO Smith brand flue damper, and the atmospheric models ... both models have different honeywell gas controls...
Error codes, service manuals and troubleshoot appear following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#honeywell

There is no specific service manual available for the flue damper series in 2019

If its 1 blink every 3 seconds its normal operation.
Otherwise, this is the meaning of the various blinks:

No blinks = no poilet light (not enough power (in millivolts) to keep it lit.
2 flashes = insufficient voltage (in millivolts) to gas valve.
4 flashes = high water temperature (over heat sensor activated.
5 flashes = water temperature sensor failure.
7 flashes = gas control valve / thermostat failure.
8 flashes = Only occurs if the gas control valve or Temperature knob has been turned off And the thermocouple continued to produce electric power.
9 flashes = Combustion chamber temperature sensor open or shorted.
10 flashes = LDO occurrence was detected in the combustion chamber (contaminants).

maybe replace intellivent gas control valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Unknown if this is new installation or older installation that stopped working, so we're guessing
Damper is sold separately. Refer to part numbers in product manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-flue-damper-manual.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Review-Whirlpool-Flue-damper-gas-Water-Heater.html
Call whirlpool Warranty and Service department 1-877-817-6750/ 12 years parts coverage for single-family residential installation when installed by code and information shown in product manual, and maintained as showing in product manual.
Clean air intake located on bottom of unit as shown page 24-25 product manual... the problem might be not enough incoming air supply.
Review manual for correct venting.
Check outlet for 80% rated voltage and for correct polarity, and for ground continuity with manifold tube located under gas control valve.
Troubleshoot by type of gas control valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
Call local service technician. Call installer.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

This condition can be caused by 4 different problems, or combination of these problems.
Good indicator would be to check temperature of water inside tank.
Put bucket under TP overflow tube and release water into bucket, then use cooking thermometer to gauge temperature. Stand back from scalding water that can shoot out of overflow.

If tank temperature is 120-130:
1) Crossover is suspect:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

If tank temperature is low:
2) Bad gas control valve thermostat is suspect.
I believe Rheem 41VRP50N has Honeywell or White Rodgers electronic gas control valve.
Open following link to identify gas control thermostat and see typical error codes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-temperature-on-water-heater.html#Honeywell
Replacement gas valve can be purchased from Rheem.

3) Combustion parts and tubes need cleaning, and bleed gas line for air and water contaminants.

4) Water heater has sediment build-up coating burner transfer surface and covering thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
Year of manufacture for Rheem water heater is 2nd two digits of serial number, so XX03.. would be 2003.

Add a comment and say what you did to solve problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

If you have a leaking water heater there is a serious problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html
Page shows how to limp along on a leaking water heater if your water heater needs replacement.

One of three things is causing the water:
1) Loose water connection on top of tank that is dripping down inside tank >> check pipes on top of tank.

2) The vent is clogged or not working correctly causing condensation inside flue pipe.
Condensation water is dripping back down inside tank.
Problem means possible CO poisoning if gas is not venting.
Look at vent pipe to see if joints are corroded.
Use long fireplace match > light match and put into draft hood at top of tank and see if smoke goes up.
Put hand at draft hood opening when water heater turns on to see if vent gas enters home.
Do same test when furnace turns on to see if furnace vent is pushing back into water heater.
Does water heater vent inside same pipe as furnace? You may need to set up separate vent for water heater if furnace gasses are pushing back into home.
Check furnace vent for obstructions.
Look at vent stack top of home to see if hood is in place.
Check if bird nest is built inside warm vent pipe.
Improper flue is top priority for getting fixed so vent gasses properly escape home.
You may have to call a plumber.
Professional plumbing forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

3) Your water heater is rusted out.
A rusted tank has to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
However, before replacing tank, you do not want a tank failure where tank ruptures and water runs inside home until water is shut off.
This will cause major damage.
Protect yourself first.
Turn off water valve above tank.
Move gas knob to 'pilot' so burner is not heating water.
Open tub spout on hot side to relieve pressure on tank so it will not rupture.

Now you're protected.
Link above shows how to limp along on failed tank until you can replace heater.

You need a new gas water heater from Lowes or Home Depot
Look at label on side of you tank for gallons and btu's of your water heater.
Measure height to flue pipe so you get same height water heater, so pipes don't have to be changed.
You need a pipe wrench and teflon tape which will be wrapped on each pipe thread when pipes are reassembled.

Step1) Drain water heater using valve at bottom of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

2) Turn off gas valve going into heater.
When gas valve is perpendicular to gas line, then gas is off.
Dissemble gas line to water heater.

3) Disconnect flue pipe and support flue pipe with wire so it doesn't not fall down. Flue pipe joints should be held together at each joint with 3 screws.

4) Turn off water. Shut off valve is on COLD side.
Disconnect water pipes.

5) Move old water heater out of way.

6) Set new water heater in place. Put water heater in drip pan.

7) Connect water pipes >> cold goes to side marked cold.
Hot to hot.
Buy new flexible water connector pipes at home center for easy installation of water pipes.

8) Connect gas line exactly as it was connected before.
Home center sells flexible gas line connector for easy installation of gas line.
To test for gas leak after installation, mix liquid soap with water and put around gas line joints to see if there are bubbles.
Natural gas has less pressure than water lines, so gas pipes are easy to seal with ordinary wrench.

9) install TP pipe that runs to floor. Use old one off old heater.

10) Fill tank completely with water until water is coming out of tub spout.

11) Turn on gas, and light pilot as shown in manual.
New gas heater sometimes have small water leak when first fired up, so ignore a bit of water.

12) Save water heater manual like it is gold, and read everything in manual.

Reliance makes gas and electric water heaters.
http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/

Best way to start is to look at label on side of tank.
Label has serial number, model number, plus it will say if heater is gas or electric.
Reliance water heater age is shown in serial number: first digit is letter, second two digits are numbers: for example numbers 02 would be the year 2002.
If water heater is 8-12 years old, it might be time to consider new tank.

Gas water heater has 3 inch metal flue pipe coming out of top of tank.
Gas pilot is probably off.
Relight pilot light: Most gas water heaters today have instructions on side of tank just above gas valve that say how to relight pilot light. Instructions vary by model.
If you have gas water heater that is older, it might be easier to call a plumber.

Electric water heater has panels on front.
Open top panel and push in red reset button.
If you have electric water heater of any age, you can usually fix it yourself same day:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

The red button you pushed on the hot water heater was probably what is called a "piezo-electric" ignitor. It's normal for it to make a snapping sound and then pop back out. It sounds like you just lost the pilot light.

That being the case, do this:

Turn the gas valve on the hot water tank to the "off" position - it should be silver in color and down low on the tank. You may have to push it down to do this
Leave it off for about two minutes or so
Rotate the valve back on to the "Pilot" position
Hold down the pilot gas valve - it should be red and immediately to the left of the main gas valve.

While holding the pilot gas valve down, push the other red button to the right of the main gas valve - this is the piezo ignitor - push it several times in a row quickly

The gas pilot light should light
You can stop pushing the ignitor now, but continue to hold down the gas pilot valve (the one just left of the main gas valve). Let this valve up after about another 20 seconds or so.

Now rotate the main gas valve to the "on" position

Listen carefully - you should hear the main gas light and feel heat at the water heater flue outlet on top - don't touch it with your hand - you could get burned

If no luck, repeat the process until the heater re-lights

TIP - the instructions for re-lighting the pilot should be written on the heater

Just a potential diagnosis - the thunder clap, if as close as you describe, may have been intense enough to create what is known as a "draft inversion" that may have snuffed out your pilot light. The air pulse came down the flue pipe.

1) After shutting off the water and gas or power supply to the tank, connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, open the valve, and run it to a nearby drain or outdoors. Use two wrenches to unscrew the inlet and outlet fittings from the top of the tank. 2) For a gas water heater, shut off the gas inlet valve and use two wrenches to disconnect the union or flare fitting between the gas supply pipe and the inlet valve. Also remove the flue hat that expels gasses into the flue at the top of the tank. 3) After removing the old unit, set the new one in place with the controls and burner accessible. Allow at least 6 inches of clearance around its perimeter, and keep it away from flammable materials. Use a level to check it for plumb; shim the base with pieces of asphalt shingles or plastic wedges. 4) Wrap the threads of the heat trap fittings with pipe-wrap tape, and screw the fittings into the water heater (blue into the cold water inlet and red into the hotwater outlet). Be sure the arrows marked on the fittings point in the direction of water flow. 5) Install new flexible connectors on the water inlet and outlet pipes. If there is no shutoff valve on the cold water side, install one before connecting the water heater. After all connections are complete, open the shutoff valve to fill the tank. While it is filling, open several hot water faucets in the house to bleed off air in the pipes. 6) Assemble the gas pipes as shown. Spread pipe dope on the threads, and screw together the parts, tightening them with one pipe wrench on the pipe and another on the fitting. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the unit with gas supply tubing. After turning on the gas, test all connections by brushing soapy water on them and watching for bubbles.