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Anonymous Posted on Aug 26, 2014

Why is My cimbali 21 s junior is making a loud noise when turn on

Making a loud noise when on

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Mark Cheong

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  • La Cimbali Master 791 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 22, 2018
Mark Cheong
La Cimbali Master
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Joined: Oct 14, 2013
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The La Cimbali Junior is a 1 group professional espresso machine. Most are located in restaurants that want to serve a cup or two for customers. You will find few homes with this level of machine. Especially with the proliferation of "Mini Super-Automatics" now offered where the whole been is ground, measured, compacted, and served with exacting amount and some top off with frothed milk!
The JR has several items that will normally buzz or whine when in operation. There are also defined "Clicks" of the group valve when a shot is pulled. I will go through the list of likely components that make loud noises when about to fail.
*** The following is for information only! Call your vendor for service as there are dangerous voltages, high pressure, and scalding stem present in these types of professional machines. ***
* All JR's come with a water pump. Two types; Vibration and Rotary. The vibration makes a buzzing sound (50/60 Hz) which will get loud if there is a blockage. The rotary pump with it's accompanying large motor will also "Clack" if no water is flowing through. Stop immediately as both sounds are an indication of a straining pump. If it suddenly goes quiet then the pump is damaged or hopefully the fuse blew. Call for service.
* The group valve will usually buzz when pulling a shot. But if it's louder than normal then there is a problem with the valve (clogged) or coil (shorted). Call for service.
* If there are loud blasts of steam and a quiet period with another blast in about 10 mins. Then the boiler is over heating (runaway steam). Unplug and call for service.
* If there is constant steam blast from the top, even if it's turned off (But NOT unplugged) the element is shorted to water. Unplug immediately and call for service.
* Popping sounds are normal at start up as the metal boiler expands during initial heating. But not after 10 mins of heating. Especially if you see water/steam coming from parts of the machine you don't expect. Unplug. Call for service.
* Power/Heater contactor will buzz if coil is damaged or contacts burnt. Call for service.
* Final; I do not recommend opening the machine yourself as once you hear a loud noise it's usually too late and the damage is done.
* Parts that needs check/replacement; Vibration or rotary pump, motor, group valve, safety valve, vacuum valve, thermostat/pressure-stat, element, boiler and element gasket, contactor.
Aloha, ukeboy57

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Tub Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced.

Clutch If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Drive Belt If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Water Inlet Valve If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault. Replace it.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem and the parts are relatively easy to replace.
Rear Drum with Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.

Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.
Drive Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.

Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the pump may be worn out, or something might be caught in it. Remove the pump and inspect it for debris. If it is clear and the blades spin freely the problem might be somewhere else.
U-Joint Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.

Motor Coupling If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission

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