I INSTALLED A 1000WATT DIMMER SWITCH WITH ONLY 660 TOTAL WATTS AND THE SWITCH IS EXTREMLY HOT? I CHECKED ALL CONNECTIONS AD ALSO CHANGED OUT THE SWITCH WITH ANOTHER WITH THE SAME OUTCOME PLEASE HELP.

It could be getting hot for a number of reasons. First I would suggest not using it until the cause had been discovered and corrected.
Secondly, often times if something had recently been changed that may point to the cause and reversing that might solve the issue.
Dimmer switches work by manipulating the current flowing to your devices however some of the devices do not work well or not at all with dimmers. When the dimmer is working correctly the devices (usually lights) will noticeably dim. If they do not (which may be the case with some LEDs) they can cause problems. Also fluorescent lights especially the CFL bulbs if not rated for dimming can cause problems. Otherwise there will be a noticeable warmth at the switch because it has a heat sink built in that dissipates heat generated by the internal circuitry that controls the dimming.
You also must make sure that you have not exceeded the wattage rating of the switch. Simply add up the watts that each device uses and the total must not exceed the rating of the switch.
Finally if these tips do not reveal the cause of your problem then I would suggest contacting a licensed electrician.

Yes, Wall Dimmer Switches do indeed get warm in use. The front part of the dimmer switch is a plate of aluminum, and is actually a "heat sink" for the innards. It dumps the heat to the outside front of the switch, and yes - it makes the switch-plate feel warm hen the dimmer is used.

The concern here is warm is okay, but HOT is NOT, at least not for your application of only a few lamps being dimmed.

If you are ever in a commercial establishment, like a big convention hall in a hotel, or a large restaurant dining room where a lot of lights are on single dimmer switches, you will observe the switches actually have external heat sinks, large plates of finned metal, on the outside of the switch. Those are designed to dim many lights, and can indeed get quite hot.

Take the plastic plate off and read the wattage rating that is stamped into that aluminum plate. As long as the total of your load (7 lamps times 65 watts each lamp equals 455 watts total load) is equal to or less than the "Maximum Load" shown on the switch, you are fine.

If you still feel the switch is too hot for your peace of mind, replace it with one rated for an even greater load - it will possibly run a bit cooler (Ohm's law says it will not!). Switches can and do wear out, and they are inexpensive enough that replacement is "cheap insurance".

If you go that route, and decide to replace the switch yourself (a relatively easy task, Google yourself a "How-to" video on the subject) and unless you are very VERY familiar with the circuitry in your home, just go ahead and throw the Main Breaker of the house off for the 15 or 20 minutes the job will take you.

That way, you won't have any 'shocking surprises' when you start fiddling inside that switch-box.

(make sure you have fresh batteries in your best flashlight, and all the tools you need, before you start!)

Best 'o luck, William!

Most modern dimmers provide normal energy savings. They reduce the total amount of watts consumed on the circuit. Many years ago, dimmers only reduced the watts consumed as light - making up the difference as heat in the dimmer switch. A 100W light turned down to 1/2 wattage at a dimmer switch resulted in 50 watts of light at the bulb, but 50 watts of heat was created in the switch. That was zero energy savings. The newer electronic dimmers will still let 50 watts be used as light, but only a few watts as heat in the switch.

To maximized energy savings, use of new cold cathode technology lights such as CFL (compact fluorescent lamp), LED (Light Emitting Diode), etc. types are suggested. You can use these lamps on a dimmer to furrther reduce the amount of energy used - but only if the lamp indicates that it is dimmable.

If the lamp or fixture does not specifically state it can be used on a dimmer, don't. This includes powering a light through a dimmer that is set to maximum brightness. Use a standard non-dimming switch instead.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Electricians use the 80% rule.
When watt rating is 1000, we say 800 watts maximum. Same for wire ratings, and circuit breaker ratings, switch ratings, etc. 80% rule is the rule for electricians.
The closer you run a device at full load, the warmer it gets and the more quickly the device fails.
The signal that a dimmer is failing is heat.
I suggest replacing 1000watt dimmer with 1500watt dimmer, or reducing load.
All dimmers get warm, but should not be hot. 1500watt dimmers usually have aluminum fins on the face to dissipate heat. So 1500watt dimmers look different than 1000watt dimmers.
If you reduce load, and 1000watt dimmer still gets hot with reduced load, then dimmer has gone bad.

This switch is designed to dim incandescent lamps. It has nothing in its description about being used with CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) types. If you are attempting to dim standard CFL types, it will not work.

CFL's are available in both dim-able and standard types. As you may have guessed, only those marked as "dim-able" will work with a dimmer switch. Dim-able CFLs cost slightly more than standard CFLs but may be controlled by any switch. Dimmer switches may only control incandescent and other type lamps that specifically state they are compatible with dimmer switches.

If you are attempting to dim incandescent lamps, make sure that you are not trying to dim lamps with a total wattage greater than the dimmer can handle. Most dimmer switches are rated for 600 watts, if you have two dimmer switches under one wall plate, the wattage rating drops to about 500 watts. This de-rating is because of the heat the switches create. There are dimmer switches that can dim more than 600 watts, but the price skyrockets for a 1000 watt dimmer, and keeps climbing.

If your wattage is within the limits of the dimmer, check the bulbs. If they are ok, the dimmer may have failed and require replacement.

If you found my reply helpful, please rate it "4 thumbs up". Good luck & thanks!

Dimmers are naturally warm.
They are meant to radiate the heat to avoid burning out.
IF the dimmer is HOT, then that is a signals trouble, and dimmer is overloaded or has gone bad. Check Load capacity rating of dimmer, and/or replace HOT dimmer.

Load is the total wattage of lights being controlled.
Ordinary dimmer from box store usually has load rating of 600 watts.
Other residential dimmers are rated up to 1800 watts, which is max for residential dimmers.
1800 Watt dimmers have special aluminum cover that looks like a heat sink, because it is a heat sink. Aluminum dissipates heat faster than other metals, so dimmers usually have special aluminum cover or they can have aluminum fins that stick out on the sides so heat radiates.

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Change the dimmer or reduce the load, you are controlling 750 watts with a 600w dimmer. That is a 25% excess in load, no wonder that it is getting hot!

The watt rating is absolutely critical to the operation of the device.
The high heat is a direct result of too much amperage flowing through the dimmer.

Reduce your wattage immediately or stop using the dimmer.
You have a fire hazard.

According to the math, you have 20 - 65 Watt bulbs
Change 12 of the bulbs to 40 watt and you will drop to the 1000W max.
12 x 40 = 480W
8 x 65 = 520W
Total = 1000

However I am worried about this circuit.
A typical 15 amp switch (not a dimmer, but the switch) is maxxed-out at 1440 Watts.
So if you had 20 100 watt bulbs for 2000 Watts, it would heat up the 15 amp switch
It seems very odd that an electrician would put 20 lights on one circuit without having a 20 amp switch and 12 gauge wire.
Look at the markings on the switch you replaced and look for amps or watts.
And then look at the color of the wire cable inside your box ... 12 gauge wire is yellow and the lighter-weight 14 gauge wire is white.
If you have a white wire going to all those lights, then you are going to burn down the house unless the total wattage is reduced.
Volts X Amps = Watts.

I think your circuit needs a review to make sure it has the correct wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire2.html

This being said, Lutron makes 1800 Watt dimmers.
You can web search: 1800Watt single pole dimmer
If you have yellow-colored 12 gauge wire, it can carry up to 1920 Watts

If you want more help, add a comment and I will answer

I have spent considerable time on the Lutron site past couple days looking at their dimmers.

Lutron has a lot of dimmer varieties. The basic breakdown is 600Watt and 1000Watt. But different dimmers control different types of lighting.
Here is the long list of Lutron dimmer manuals:
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http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/InstallationInstructions/Pages/InstallationInstructions.aspx?syst=Dimmers+%26+Switches&prodn=Maestro%C2%AE+dimmer+%26+switch


I cannot find a specific troubleshoot manual for Lutron dimmers
So I suggest 4 things:
1) Feel the dimmer switch for heat >>> if it is getting hot (not warm), then that dimmer is dangerous, so remove dimmer immediately, add up your total bulb wattage to make sure you're below the 600 or 1000 watt capacity of you model dimmer
2) Look at the list of manuals shown at link, and make sure your dimmer matches the type of bulb you are using. Your dimmer model number and wattage should be printed on side or back of dimmer.
3) These dimmers use electronics to control the lights. Electronics go bad. The higher the wattage controlled by your dimmer, the more heat, and the shorter the dimmer life.
4) Short in the wires. Replace your dimmer with one from Home Depot and see if the condition persists. If it does, then a short is probably somewhere in that circuit. Troubleshooting a short is another long answer that needs more wiring detail ... please repost if you have a short.

If your wallplate is hot, that is a sign of trouble, and possible electrical fire. That dimmer is not made for the load, or it is going bad.

Turn off the dimmer immediately. Do not use the dimmer at all. Replace with a wall switch until you have the correct dimmer.

Each dimmer is rated for Watts. Ordinary electrical switch is rated by amps. Ordinary 15 Amp electrical switch can handle up to 1400 Watts. This means 14 - 100 watt bulbs.

Dimmers are usually not rated for 1400 Watts. They have 500-600 Watt rating. Look at the side of your dimmer for Wattage information that is usually printed on dimmer.

Heavier-duty dimmers cost more and can carry more wattage. Some dimmers carry up to 1800 watts. These kinds of dimmers have aluminum heat sink visible right on the face of dimmer.

In any case, your dimmer is an electrical fire hazard and should be replaced. Add up total wattage of your lights, and read new dimmer package when buying.

Up-vote if this information is helpful. Thanks for the feedback.