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Randall Fitzpatrick
Randall Fitzpatrick Posted on Aug 22, 2014
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Why won't water heat to proper temp?

Heating element is good, contactor is new. As I watched through a full cycle, the contactor controlling the element never engages. Could it be the temp sensor? Or relay? How to test? Thanks.

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4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 110 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 11, 2010

SOURCE: no heat on rinse cycle HOBART AM14C Dishwasher

ITS MOST LIKELY A HATCO BSTR . IF THE TANK CAN BE SEEN ITS NOT HATCO.FIRST JUMP OUT T'STAT ON BSTR SO ITS ALWAYS CALLING FOR HEAT CK. ALL ELEMENTS FOR AMPERAGE. BE QUICK SO BSTR. DOES NOT OVERHEAT ON YOU.IS CONTACTOR STILL CHATTERING, IF NOT REPLACE OPER. T'STAT FOR BSTR

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paultech8226

  • 109 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 08, 2009

SOURCE: lx30h hobart dw. booster will not turn on. element

The booster heat control circuit is controlled by the relay board. Visually check for loose or burnt relay contacts...
You will see the booster LED light when it calls for heat. Some newer machines have a second high limit on the right hand side of the booster tank.
It may be your control board is configured for low temp with no booster. When you power up, the display should say LX30H. If not
Pull open the upper drawer, place a magnet over the door interlock switch.

CAUTION, 220 volt power is present. be carefull what you touch.

on control board, short J5-1 and J5-2, then power up. You are in factory setup. press select on the control board to see each option on the front panel., press up arrow on control board to step up through options for each step. when done, press the off button on front panel. remove short and start up normally. With the magnet in place, AND THE DOOR CLOSED, run the machine and observe the relay board status lights.
If you want to adjust the temp set points, with the machine off, press and hold the hidden key behind the front panel logo, and press select on the control board.. Or on power up, hold the wask key..Same to adjust options as above. Press off to exit.

Anonymous

  • 70 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 07, 2010

SOURCE: No heat -element is good. Heating contactor not

1)check the heating element continuity&body resistance ok.
2)check the thermostat series with the coil connection get tripped.(relay from board damage)

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 13, 2012

SOURCE: rinse temperature too low

your right dont guess the board is bad!

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I have a frigidaire fgbd2438pbbb dishwasher that runs thru the wash cycle then stops and the air dry and high temp light flash. whats wrong?
Based on the symptoms you described, it's likely that there is an issue with the heating element or thermostat in your Frigidaire dishwasher. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can try:
  1. Check the heating element: The heating element is responsible for heating the water during the wash cycle and drying the dishes at the end of the cycle. If the element is faulty, the dishwasher may stop mid-cycle and display the flashing lights you described. Use a multimeter to test the continuity of the heating element. If there is no continuity, the heating element needs to be replaced.
  2. Check the thermostat: The thermostat is a safety device that prevents the dishwasher from overheating. If the thermostat is faulty, it may shut off the heating element prematurely, causing the dishwasher to stop mid-cycle. Test the thermostat using a multimeter. If it's not functioning properly, it needs to be replaced.
  3. Check the control board: If the heating element and thermostat are functioning properly, there may be an issue with the dishwasher's control board. A faulty control board can cause various issues, including the flashing lights you described. If this is the case, you may need to replace the control board.
If you're not comfortable performing these troubleshooting steps yourself, it's best to contact a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the issue.
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Mar 04, 2023 • Frigidaire Dishwashers
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Continues to blow the high temp stat. I clean the blower and replaced the venting. I also replaced the heating coil the dryer heats up for a load and then it stopss heating. I test the high temp stat
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Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

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Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

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Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q
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You would need a multi-meter or voltmeter to trace the power path. Turn on the generator and wait until you hear the water feed solenoid stop. This means the water has reached the satisfied level and the pc board should have sent 24v to engage the contactor. On the actual pc board there is a section label "cont" which is what sends the 24v to the contactor the engage the heating element. Verify that you have 24v on the spade terminals going out to the contactor, if not then you may have a pc board issue. Second possibility is the contactor, if it is recieving 24v and it is not engaging then it's simply a bad contactor. Check the load side of the contactors with the blue wires. Lastly if these two steps check ok, then perform an ohm reading with a multimeter on the actual heating element(with the power off, put your two test leads on the two flathead screws that hold down the blue leads the go to the heating element). If you get an open reading then this may indicate a failed heating element. Pulling the heating element out on the left side panel will confirm any element failure.
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If the dishwasher is hanging on in the middle of the cycle it is usually the heating system. If the temperature of the water is going up after filling, then the element may be working. The element is tested using a multi meter set on Ohms to read impedance across the heater element contacts. If impedance is infinity (open-off limit), then the element is gone. If the element is OK, then the bi-metal thermostat or the fuse must be replaced. The heating assembly is located at the base of the appliance, behind the kick panel.

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I have a Westinghouse SB915SJ*00 dishwasher. It runs right through a cycle but does not heat. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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The majority of dishwashers are not connected to hot water from the mains but heat up the water internally using the heating element, located in the tub of the dishwasher, controlled by a thermostat. When the dishwasher has a fault with heating, the program will run but not complete and will show an error code on the display panel. Dishes won't be cleaned properly and the detergent won't dissolve.

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I have a frigidaire fgbd2438pbbb dishwasher that runs thru the wash cycle then stops and the air dry and high temp light flash. whats wrong?

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