My 2001 side by side whirlpool imperial series refrigerator has frost built up at the top of ice maker dispenser and the bottom of the ice basket in the freezer side. Food is still freezing
SOURCE: ice build up in back section of a Whirlpool no frost top freezer refrigerator 66"hx30"wx27"d
your sure the defrost cycle works? sounds to me its not. you need to remove the freezer back and check the defrost components. or put it in the defrost cycle and see if it is working. to get that much frost as you describe the dor would have to be left open. also check all door seals. let me know what you find and we can go from there
SOURCE: Bottom of ice maker/dispenser frosting over
Open the freezer door and look down the ice chute while you shine a flashlite up the dispenser cute from the outside. If you see light around the chute door, it needs to be replaced or something is wrong with the mechanism. The problem you describe is almost always air leakage around that flap.
Post back if you need more help.
SOURCE: ice in the bottom of frigidaire side by side frost proof freezer
take all the bottom shelves and baskets out of the freezer. look at the back wall of the freezer. youll see a block of ice in a metal pan looking part at the bottom of the rear panel. there is a hole in the bottom of that pan. thats the defrost drain. its clogged. use a hair dryer to get all the ice out then use hot water to flush out the drain hole.
SOURCE: Frost gathering in freezer, icemaker dispenser freezes over
well check to see if door seal is split if it is get new one!! need to see photo of the frozon over dispenser- found before that when ice not bein used alot the odd time you will have to take out the ice in the bucket crack it up and put back in try this???
SOURCE: Bosch Side by Side, top shelves dont freeze food, bottom does
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
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