Motor timeout occures and microswitches are new,no loose connection,piston getting stoped at different positions,driving motor moves slowly

The problem that I've had with most motors running slow is the drive belt is too tight, out of alignment or too loose. To adjust you need to have access to the belt. Notice where the nut is that holds it in place. Carefully, loosen the nut and slowly push on the foot control You will have to move the motor in different ways until you can notice the speed is at it's highest. This means to tighten, loosen or shimmy the motor to one side or the other. Be careful so you don't get hurt!

A common problem is hydraulic locking. This occurs when fuel leaks into the cylinder preventing the piston from rising in the cylinder. Pull the spark plug, cover loosely with a shop rag and WITH IGNITION OFF (some bikes starter will spin with the kill switch in the off position, if yours is one of them, keep the kill switch in the off position when spinning motor to clear the cylinder, otherwise, spin the motor by placing the bike in gear and rolling forward). Careful! if it is indeed hydraulic lock, gas will spew out of the spark plug hole creating a fire hazard. Once you have cleaned up and aired out the cylinder, clip the spark plug lead back on the plug without installing it in the motor. See if it spins. If engine does not spin with plug removed, ensure that engine is not locked up by some other means. (seized piston, broken connecting rod, etc.) If all works OK, replace plug and fire it up.

What you are probably hearing is referred to as "piston slap". It occurs over time as the side-to-side motion of the piston as it moves up and down in the cylinder slowly wears the lower walls of the cylinder, changing it more cone-like. This causes the bottom edge of the piston skirt to strike the bottom edge of the piston wall as it transitions from its lowest point to begin its upward stroke. This was a issue on the Volvo Turbo engines. Google it and you will see that they made changes in 1993 to help prevent this. This problem will not go away. Eventually you will break a piston skirt and that will be the end. If you can, get the engine overhauled before the damage is permanent.

You can try to do this with the cover off, just in case it is not seated properly and holding the lever from fully engaging. The actual swithc is a small microswitch down at the brake, and it can get dirt in it and that will stop it from working, or it may even fail, and need to be replaced. So I would:
1) try it woth the shroud off the motor using.
2) look for dirt around the switch.
3) take a paperclip and jump the scooter side of the switch to bypass the microswitch on the scooter, be careful not to short the jumper to the scooter frame.

Let me know how you make out.
Dan

The most common cause of delay or no reverse, other than the valve body, is a loose main-shaft nut. The symptoms will most likely occur when the vehicle is hot, and may also exhibit a soft or flared 2nd gear up-shift. A loose main-shaft nut can cause a Leak in the 2nd clutch circuit. When the nut is loose, the main-shaft walks back and forth In the middle of the case. This causes a small gap between the 1st clutch and the nut, which is where the leak in the 2nd clutch circuit appears. A new main-shaft nut should be replaced with every repair, since it has a factory thread locker. The nut can be accessed by removing the side cover, which means the unit does not have to be removed to replace it. The nut, and this is very important, should be torqued to 111 ft. lbs. The Saturn part number for the main-shaft nut is 21001680.

Another common no reverse condition is a faulty or defective vehicle speed sensor. The input from the VSS to the PCM should always read less than 5 mph. This allows the PCM to command high line pressure, which in turn will move the servo apply valve (1992-up models only) to an open position, thus opening up the passage to allow oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. If the VSS is defective (thus reading 5 mph or above on your scan tool), the PCM will command low line pressure, thus not feeding oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. In turn, the slider assembly will not move, causing a no reverse condition.

Another problem that occurs, especially when the unit has been removed, is an incorrectly adjusted pattern select switch, which we all commonly know as the manual lever positioning switch. If the pattern select switch is not adjusted properly, a no reverse condition, as well as loss of drive and/or erratic or harsh shifting can occur. To adjust the pattern select switch, put the selector in the D4 position. DO NOT start the vehicle. Connect an ohm meter to the switch. Rotate the switch until the ohm meter reads continuity. Once a reading is obtained, tighten the pattern select switch.

Hi,

When you face such errors, please check if the Scanner panel displays-"E-0" and TWAIN displays- “The running system is abnormal. Please confirm the carrier lock has come off.”

The error is Carrier unit drive alarm. After power-on, carrier unit (FB) moves to home position, that is where the carrier unit locates when home position sensor is turned ON. If the home position sensor is not turned ON after the carrier unit has moved pre-defined steps, this error occurs.

Probable causes:
Defective sensor, motor, or carrier belt.

Also, please check the following:

1. Is there is any abnormal noise from FB motor when this error occurs?
2. Does any foreign object get inside drive unit or carrier unit?
3. Is CR belt tension loose? Loose belt should be tightened.

Hope the above information will be helpful.

Please revert if you have further queries.

Thanks & regards,

TechSatya

Check the brew piston micro switch for damages or loose wire connections, If this doesn't help you have to run a test and for this you need the "install card" and a volt meter

If you are talking about the first paper feed tray.. I had the same problem yesterday.. I had a loose wire.. purple.. on one of the sensors near the back.. wiggle the wires a little.. until the paper tray light is on.. the push button has a light.. I was in test mode and couldn't get the motor to go up and down in test mode either. .. turned out not a big problem.. but if one of those little wires is loose or moved it might not be making a connection ..in which case.. no motor.. If none of these things work you could have something stuck at the bottom.. there's a little microswitch to tell the machine the paper tray is at the bottom.. It's under the tray.. see if that thing is stuck or moves freely. .. Sometimes it's dead spot on the elevator motor.. manually try to move that when the machine starts.. The error comes when the paper tray is supposed to move up to the ready position and it doesn't move..

ur clutch is slippin

Please check microswitch block door/ Best result change this microswitch on the new. If terminal is shot - longered on wire.

Rashid Moscow ([email protected])