There is 12 VDC to the mount. It has worked in the recent past.
SOURCE: Conecting to 120 volts AC
If you want to get more precise, figure out everything in terms of power (watts).
Basic electrical rule 1, 2 and 3:
voltage x current = power
or re-arranged:
current = power divided by voltage
or re-arranged:
voltage = power divided by current
For example, 12V X 2 amps = 24 watts.
or another example, 400 watts divided by 120 Volts = 3.33 amps
A 55W headlight that uses 12V would draw 55 /12 = 4.6 amps @ 12V
A 55 watt light bulb in a lamp at home would draw 55 / 120 = 0.46 amps @ 120V
As the previous post mentioned, inverters are not perfect when
convertering 12V into 120V. If the converter consumes 1000W from the
12V battery, then a 90% effecient converter would generate 900W of 120V
AC power best case. The other 100W is lost primarily as heat.
The other thing that gets tricky is that these ratings and the formula
above are used for resistive loads, like light bulbs or hair dryers.
Anything with a motor or transformer is considered an inductive load
and can get much more tricky to calculate.
Consequently you need to give your self a safety margin when figuring out how big an inverter you need.
How does work in a practical sense?
Lets say you want an inverter for TV, DVD and Sat. Receiver. Look at
the back of TV or in the manual. It should say how many watts it
consumes. Lets say it is 400W. The DVD might be 100W and the Sat.
receiver 50W - just as an example.
400 + 100 + 50 = 550 Watts. (just as an example)
You might think, well no problem, I'll use a 600 Watt inverter and have
50 watts left over. Depending on your inverter, that 600W might really
be 600 x 90% effecient = 540 Watts of AC, less a 20% margin of error
for the inductive transformers in the electronic of the TV, DVD and
Sat. receiver 540 - 20% = 432 Watts.
Now you can see your 600 Watt inverter isn't big enough to do the job.
If we really need 550 watts of AC, add 10% to make up the effiency loss, then add a safety margin for inductive loads.
550 + 10% = 605 + 20% = 726 Watts.
Sounds more like an 800W inverter fits the job.
What does that mean in terms of wiring the 12V batteries to the inverter?
from the formula above:
current = power divided by voltage
In our example, we have an 800W inverter that runs on 12V
The current would thererfore be:
current = power divided by voltage
current = 800 watts divided by 12V
current = 66 amps.
That is important info because you can not use light gauge wire to
carry 66 amps worth of 12V to the inverter nor could you use a 20A fuse
to protect your inverter.
Now that's a lot of science for a guy who just wants to run a toaster on an inverter right?
800W / 120V = 6.66 amps
Using garryp's ratio 11:1, 6.66 x 11 = 73 amps.
That is a good ratio with a good safety margin.
This is all just MHO and should not taken as solid technical advise. In other words, don't blame me if you blow yourself up.
SOURCE: Refrigerator totally inop. 120 VAC & 12 VDC present. Unit is model # RM3662.
Yes, I did the same thing. I had a qualified RV repairman change out the board. He also told me there is a recall on this specific issue and that DOMETIC should pay for not only the board, but quite possibly the cost of the labor to repair.
Dometic phone # is 888-803-0013
SOURCE: Pin Name Color Description
Yes this is a good list of the voltages to be expected from a newer power supply on just the main header
SOURCE: NEED TO KNOW HOW TO USE THE HUMMINBIRD MODEL PTM
Hi!
Here's a manual for your Platimum 600 sounder:
Paltinum ID 600
Best of luck!
Mike
The 24 pin main power connector was added in ATX12V 2.0 to provide extra power needed by PCI Express slots. The older 20 pin main power cable only has one 12 volt line. The new 24 pin connector added one line apiece for ground, 3.3, 5, and 12 volts. The extra pins made the auxiliary power cable unnecessary so most ATX12V 2.x power supplies don't have them. The 24 pin connector is polarized so it can only be plugged in pointing in the correct direction. 196 views
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