What to do about sediment comming in pipes in house

10 year old homes today usually do not have galvanized pipe. They have copper or pex plastic pipe. These do not rust.
Is rusty water on both hot and cold line, or just hot line?
Just hot line, then check anode rod and flush tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flush
Are you on water well? Well casing can get rusted. Water can have minerals. Call local water well service and describe problem in detail.
Are you on city water or mudd district water? Is pipe coming into house made of galvanized? Look inside meter box or look at pipe coming into house. Sometimes the city water line at end of run can get filled with sediments that will discolor water. Have water company flush the city water line.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hi Mervyn, The easiest way of replacing the fuel filter is to disconnect the intake and outlets pipes and remove the retaining nuts from the housing. Remove the unit from the vehicle and hold the pump housing not too tightly in a vice and unscrew the old filter and the sediment sender unit from its base. Screw in the sediment unit and fill the filter with clean fuel. Dip your finger into the fuel and wipe a smear around the rubber seal and the holding the housing upright, screw it together, refit to the vehicle and prime by pushing on the plunger until the action becomes hard. Start the engine and if required, bleed each injector by opening the 17 mm joint onto each injector until fuel is released during idle. Retighten each after about five seconds and any misfire due to air should be dispelled and once all have been bled idle should be smooth. Regards John

Sounds like a plumbing problem.

Since no tap gets hot water, chances are good the problem lies in the hot water pipes between the water heater to the first Tee.
Look for sediment lodged in water heater hot water pipe.
Or sediment lodged in elbow or Tee.

Other problems can be in play.
Faulty check valve or mixing valve if these are installed.
Faulty recirculation system if this is installed.
Also crossover at single-handled faucet where the cartridge is bad and lets the cold water flow into hot water pipe whenever another faucet is turned on. If you are getting cold water out the hot tap, and you know the hot water heater has hot water, then crossover is suspect > in addition to sediment blockage at hot water heater.

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1) You posted under Bosch tankless water heater.
There should be a nameplate on front of unit or located where you can see it.
http://www.boschhotwater.com/HelpfulResources/TechnicalSupport/BoschAquaStarModels/2400ESTechSupport/Troubleshooting/tabid/1295/Default.aspx

Bosch problems at Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/p949576-bosch_1600h_lp_liquid_propane_aquastar_a/solutions

Bosch has online tech support form:
http://forms.boschhotwater.com/Home/BoschTechSupportForm/tabid/614/Default.aspx

2) Replacing water valve probably loosened build-up inside pipe that lodged in water heater or inside elbow just beneath tankless unit.
If water flow is stopped or slowed, tankless will not operate.

3) Remove pipes and see if clog can be flushed.

4) Also U-tupe search "delime tankless water heater" and technique used for deliming will be good way to clear out tankless clog and sediment.
Your tankless should be delimed each year anyway.

5) Read your manual cover to cover, and see words 'troubleshoot' and 'maintenance' are used throughout manual. Get acquainted with your water heater and manual, because tankless are maintenance heavy, especially if conditions are not optimal and as unit ages.

6) All costs are energy. Install tank type water heater for ez do-it-yourself repairs and maintenance.
Tank type work under all types of adverse conditions and water pressures and water conditions, and even withstand sediment build-up for several years. Of course tank-type pipes can clog too.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

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To clarify your question, are saying that you just had a new water heater installed in your house and the shower head in the bathroom can't get water through it? If that's what you meant, the water restrictor in the shower head is plugged with sediment. This often happens during water main shut offs and then turned back on. It shocks the sediment on the inside pipe walls. The first places it affects are shower heads and faucet aerators. Remove the shower head and clear the clog or replace with a new shower head. If this is not what you meant to say, then rewrite your problem.

You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.

Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

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You might have clog in water lines.
If shower is only place where low pressure exists, then clog is probably at shower valve.
Disassemble valve and see if clog will flush out.
From there, you have to keep moving back along cold water line looking for pipe filled with sediment or elbow that has obstruction.

If pressure problem is bad at every cold tap, but doesn't affect Hot water, then clog is inside Cold line somewhere after water heater connects to cold line.
Buy a pressure gauge that connects to water hose.
Buy adapter that also fits pipe thread.
For example Brady BTG 100.
Test outdoor spigot for baseline pressure.
Open cold tap inside house and see how much pressure drops.
Close cold line and open hot tap and see how much pressure drops.

Next, move pressure gauge along cold water line.
Take apart pipes and inspect for obstruction at elbow or pipes filled with sediment.
Look for any place galvanized pipe connects to copper pipe, since this will be likely place for obstruction because of bi-metal corrosion.

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You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

Shame on you! NO that filter should be changed at least every 3 months. You need to sanitize the housing with 1 tsp bleach, rinse completely and reinstall filter. If it got in to water heater you may have carbon fines in hot water for a long time. Take all the airators off faucets and flush completely.
RJ

check for sediment in your valve body... sometimes sediment can build up particularly in hot water pipes and that can cause the pressure balancing function of the valve to limit total hot water and therefore you cant get it hot enough... here is a link to what I think is the proper valve and the instructions for installing it... you'll want to follow the instructions for flushing and pressure testing... if you have good pressure at the thermo body then you might try adjusting the hot limit stop also covered in the document linked below...

http://www.hansgrohe-usa.com/JP/hrgh0264.pdf

Hope theat helps...