KitchenAid Dishwasher shutting off

SOURCE: Kitchenaid Dishwasher Latch Broken

GET A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TRY TO PUSH THE LATCH TO OPEN THE DOOR...

SOURCE: KitchenAid Dishwasher Door Pops open during cycle

The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.

With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.

Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.

SOURCE: my KitchenAid dishwasher will not run. Start light is blinking

Make sure the controls are not locked. Some units have the ability to lock the controls so that kids cannot turn on the dishwaher. You can also try unpugging the power to the unit from under the sink for about 10 minutes and then plug it back in. This may reset the control board if it has a fault and stopped from error code.

SOURCE: My KitchenAid dishwasher (KUDS25SH) start and stop

MY KUDI25 CHWH1 has the exact same problem...I'd love to hear about a fix!

SOURCE: Kitchenaid dishwasher will not turn on or drain

Float valve is jammed.

Look inside the machine on the floor will be a small float valve. Looks like a small upside down cup. Lift it and clear anything from underneath.

The valve is a safety feature to stop the machine from over filling. If anything gets under the valve it will jam open and stop the machine.

Not working?

Check for a clog internal or external.

Scoop as much water our as you can. Open the cover on the floor of the machine. Usually just turns and lifts out or snaps out some are screwed in. Take your time and try not to force anything. Look for a clog there.

Check for clog in the drain. The dishwasher will connect to the drain under your sink and run either directly to the drain or into your disposal unit. Remove open the connections and look for a clog. Clear if necessary.

Not the clog?

Water is pumped out by the machine via an internal pump located under the base. If it fails the water will collect until it trips the float valve. First scoop out all the water from the machine and run it again. If water comes in and it runs to the point it fills again and trips the float then either the pump or timer is faulty.

Pump check.

Remove the machine. It will be held in place by screws directly into the counter top. You may have to lower it to get it out. The front feet turn with a wrench to lower.

Turn off the water supply. Run the unit again until you get to the drain cycle.

Connect a test light or voltage tester to the terminals at the pump. Check for voltage at the pump. If you have voltage replace the pump. If no voltage the timer is faulty.

Timer problem?
Some can be replaced as a unit others are integral to the control panel. Turn style can be replaced. Touch control can not.

For more help go to my more detailed tip "Dishwasher will not run. DW101 how to fix". Or click on my profile and you will find the link there.


Hope this helped you. Please take the time to rate this tip.

Thanks,

Adrian