Fully charged. When key is turned on there are 5 quick beeps. Forward and reverse controls don't work. When wheels are locked and key is turned on no beep, but when wheels are unlocked it beeps and controls don't work.
Hi, the 5 bleeps are related to the brake,,, located at the rear of the scooter located on the side of the motor, attached to that is the free wheel lever,, in drive mode ,, check that the microswitch is working correctly, check the wire( connectors etc ) from the brake to the controller ,
www.facebook.com/gewizrepairs
SOURCE: Scooter with fully charged battery
Hi.
Seven beeps means faulty Throttle potentiometer or speed potentiometer fault. If using contact cleaner is not enough, that means that the faulty part must be replaced. The potentiometer is tested reading Ohms with a multimeter. Touch its contacts with multimeter probe set on Ohms while using the accelerator at the same time.Contact your authorized Pride Provider to get replacement part or to get a quote on repair.
SOURCE: when I turn the key
The beep code will begin with 10 very fast beeps, followed by 5 slower beeps. The 5 slower beeps is your actual code. The beep code 5 is a brake fault.
The scooter may be in freewheel mode or there may be a short in the brake.
Make sure the scooter is in drive mode with the rear brake lever in the correct position. If that does not clear the fault you need to check the electromagnetic brake.
To check the brake you need a digital voltmeter. The brake should read 30 to 65 ohms when you read across the pins. You need to measure the resistance at each successive point on the harness because there are 5 connectors. While you are inspecting these plugs, check for corrosion, loose pins, broken wires, and pins not making good contact. Disassemble the front and rear halves of the scooter when you do this.
If all the resistance checks are good up to the controller plug for the brake, you have a bad controller. With that being said, I usually see a bad connection at the multiple points in-between. Sometimes the wires for the brake will melt at the connector at the controller.
Inspect these areas visually, removing the rear cover of the brake/motor/transaxle and the controller. An experienced tech should charge you under 1 hour labor for the diagnosis. You may be able to save some money by checking the obvious areas for unplugged or bad connections first.
The brake will cost about $250, the interface wiring and connectors about $50 and the controller is about $500. For this reason, you should invest in a good tech to diagnose the problem first, before proceeding with any hit and miss do it yourself repairs.
Including a second visit to install the new parts, labor cost should not exceed 2 hours total.
This is a very popular model so you should be able to find an experienced tech in your area.
Testimonial: "Awesome detailed info on how to fis/diagnose the problem."
1,602 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×