What could be causing the dryer to only stay in cool down mode( cool down lite stays on) and does not heat. Correct voltage is present,dryer vent is clear and not blocked, and all settings seem to work as far as timer goes but the cool down lite never clears and the dryer does not heat so what do i check or test ?
SOURCE: LG DLG2524W DRYER WORKS FINE EXCEPT DOESN'T HEAT UP
1. Open dryer door and remove the phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 O'Clock positions. 2. Remove three screws at very back, allowing top cover to be moved back about an inch and lifted off. 3. remove screw at top left and top right from front top panel. 4. pull plastic front panel along top edge to release front top panel. (watch for sharp edges) 5. Swing top up and over onto top of dryer. 6. Unplug light and door switch. 7. remove four screws at top of large lower panel. 8. lift panel up a bit and off. 9. unplug sensor plug at bottom allowing panel with door to be set aside. 10. gas dryer has dime sized high limit thermostat on left front side of burner chamber. Has two wires on it, with a small pin in the center. Push the pin in. Reassemble and clean out vent, eliminating flexible venting, replacing with rigid aluminum piping and elbows. Outside vent should have a four inch vent flap opening, not just a two inch if it is that style.
Testimonial: "YOU HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD WITH THIS SOLUTION. THANKS"
SOURCE: Tromm DLE5955 dryer less than
HI,
Clean the lint screen/filter before or after drying each load of clothes.
If clothing is still damp at the end of a typical drying cycle or
drying requires longer times than normal, this may be a sign that the
lint screen or the exhaust duct is blocked.
Please don't forget to rate or accept the solution.
SOURCE: GE PROFILE DRYER DPXR473EW0WW HEAT/TIMING ISSUE
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
SOURCE: Our LG TROMM DLG7188WM dryer has no heat
Several things can be the problem.
Is 220v present @ the outlet?
Heat element?
High limit thermostat?
Main computer?
Bad dryer cord? Ect...
Proabably time for a service call.
SOURCE: my lg tromm DLG69885 gas dryer is not heating; oth...
Hi,
I am using LG Tromm DLE2514 washer dryer. It 's running but didn't dried the clothes. I clean it's lint but still it's not working. The one thing i notice now is it's drying light is blinking and cooling light is turn on all the time during the cycle. So what's the problem with my dryer?
This is a common fault in many electronic systems . when the set ages it deteriorates in the connections. There is a high possibility that the components over a period of heating and cooling, tend to bring on a problem of dry soldering. So my advice is to check the set for some loose joints that have played on to give you these erratic shut downs or poor performance.
The best way to check for loose connections is to tap lightly when the set is powered on , If there is change while tapping then it seems that there are DRY solder joints. Remove main plug, the covers - with caution of high voltage, check for dry joints, use a good soldering iron to solder all suspected points.
Sometimes the fault occurs when the set warms up, if so you can simulate the heat using a hair dryer on the suspected areas, try with the power supply, distribution, Processor controller, driver controllers on the A/V related sections. Also the use a FREEZE-IT spray can simulate the components to cool and show up the fault.
Based on the above method you must be able to locate the area of fault and solder the sections. Sometimes large IC's- ones with more pins- tend to have drying in some pins and so cause faults related to the IC's protocol. Have a rough idea of looking into the areas to reduce the time of probing.
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