Hi, my DC18RC isn't chiming when the BL1830 is added after 15-20mins when the red light goes green. Should I just wait for the chime?

whenever the battery is weak the chime changes....whenever you change battery the clock chimes to the last time it chimed so...try setting your clock to next hour of chime n then move the hands of clock to next hour n your clock will chime accordingly.....
in this way waiting for chime to finish ...set to clock to present time ....waiting for it to chime every time the minute hand passes 12

Is your Impala a 2000, 2001, or 2002? This seems to be a common problem in those model years...much like its predecessor the GM VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System). While the VATS had a permanent (albeit unapproved) solution, no suck workaround appears to be available for the Passlock system. Some websites offer a correction "module" that looks to be a hit-or-miss solution. I did find the following procedure on a forum, and it seems to be reliable. Here goes:
If your car has been sitting while you were at work or home or in the store, and you are coming out to leave, follow steps 1-6.

If you just had the SECURITY SYSTEM lock you out of the ignition system, you will have to wait the 10 minutes for it to reset and allow the ignition control module to interact with the system. Once the 10 minutes have passed from the ACTIVE SECURITY STATUS, follow steps 1-6. Do not try to shortcut this as it wont work.

If it is raining, you can close your door, just not all the way. Close it all the way and open the door latch without pushing the door open. This will keep you dry.

+++++STEPS+++++ 1.) OPEN YOUR DRIVERS DOOR AND SIT DOWN. 2.) PLACE KEY IN IGNITION, WAIT FOR CHIME. (3 seconds is what I usually wait) 3.) TURN IGNITION 1 CLICK RIGHT (TO THE ACC POSITION) AND STOP! Do not continue to ON and START yet. WAIT ATLEAST 5 SECONDS 4.) AFTER 5 seconds has passed, TURN KEY TO ON and STOP, DO NOT CONTINUE TO START YET! 5.) WAIT AND WATCH. With your drivers door open, here is what you will see and hear = Your notification will signal DOOR ADJAR, then the BATTERY light, then the SECURITY light, during which you will hear the chime sound as if you just started the car. 6.) AFTER YOU SEE THE SECURITY light switch back to DOOR ADJAR or Battery, and after the CHIME has stopped, you can turn the key to start and voila!

It has worked every time for me and 5 of my friends. This whole process takes about 20-30 seconds, but it sure as hell beats 30 minutes, as GM refuses to compensate my time lost to their vehicle\'s design flaws.

RECAP: 1.) Open driver door, sit down 2.) Insert key in ignition, wait for chime 3.) Once chime starts wait 3 seconds 4.) Turn key to ACC position WAIT atleast 5 seconds 5.) After 5 seconds turn key to the ON postion and wait for the security light to switch back to Battery or DOOR adjar, and the chime to stop (Do not try to START if the chime is still sounding) 6.) Once chime stops and Security light has passed, You may now complete the turn to START and it will start.

Note: This is not a permanent workaround, but it will buy you some time, I can almost guarantee it will work for most if not all people, almost all the time.

The DC18RC are most likely to charged the BL1830 battery, which is the most popular of 18V Makita power tools. It is a Li-ion battery.

And the DC18RC battery charger has two volt 110 Volt and 240 Volt.

The 240 Volt DC18RC charger can replace model DC18RA & DC18SD because of its improved performance and full compatibility with Makita's NEW 'Star' labelled batteries that communicate between the tool, battery & charger. And, it is a fast charger.

It can charge a Makita BL1830 Battery in approx 22 minutes.

But, I do not recommend to convert a makita charger model DC18RC at 110 volt to 240 volts.

The reason is as below:

1. This will void product warranty ! If you follow this mod, you do it on your own risk !

2. There are several comments that described
same model # but with different design and components.
Please beware that this mod might not work on your charger
or worst, will damage it.
Only perform this mod if you know your way around with electronics !

Is it the "brake"repair light blinking & chiming?? Or is it the "ABS" brake light blinking/chiming. Brake light should be red, ABS amber

if there is a chime or buzzer that no longer works. there is a cheap solution for adding this feature back through the fuse box for $8.50 plus s/h.


http://automotiveelectronicaccessories.com/aeapn400.htm

I couldn't find a manual for the LR2982, so I'll give a general description of how to wire a door chime. Most chimes have 3 contacts. F (Front), R (Rear) and C (Common). Some have just two contacts. If your chime has more than 3 contacts do _not_ follow these instructions.

Inside the junction box on the wall where the chime will be mounted, you should have at least 2 cables (usually brown) each, with at least two wires (usually red and white) each. One of those cables goes to the transformer and the other cable goes to the door button.

The beauty of it is that since it's only 24 volts or less and _polarity_ doesn't matter, you don't need to know which cable goes where for a _single_ door button scenario.

For _single_ door button wiring, pick a wire (say the red) from one cable (doesn't matter which cable) and connect it to the "C" contact on the chime. Pick a wire (say the red) from the _other_ cable and connect it to the "F" contact on the chime (if the chime has 3 contacts). If the chime only has 2 contacts connect it to the only contact that is left.

Then all one needs to do is twist the 2 remaining wires together (both white) and cap them off with a wire nut.

If your junction box for the chime has 3 cables in it, the extra cable goes to a rear door button. In that case you _do_ need to know which cable goes to the _transformer_. You can pick up a cheapo voltmeter for about $10 just about anywhere. The cable that reads anywhere from 16 to 24 volts AC between the red and the white wires is the cable that goes to the transformer.

Make sure one of those wires from the transformer goes to the "C" contact (pick one, say the red). Now you know the 2 remaining cables go to the front and rear door buttons. For now, just connect a red from one of the remaining cables to the "F" and one red from the other remaining cable to the "R". Then just twist the 3 remaining white wires (including the white wire from the transformer) together and cap them with a wire nut.

If the rear chime sounds when the front door button is pushed, just swap the wires on "F" with the "R"contacts..

i think the third wire is probably ground(green). if that is the case, just connect white white, black black or black .red

Check to make sure you don't have anything that would impede the connection at the battery terminal

Take the batteries out from the base, where the chime mechanism is. Wait till it gets close (20 seconds till) to a specific hour time, like 8:00 or 9:00, replace the batteries for the chime mechanism. And then count the chimes at the hour. If they are correct, you are set. If they are incorrect, turn the time back 15 minutes before the hour and bring it right back and monitor the chimes again. Hopefully this should fix it. Please post the results.

HI.
ON Ford cars and Suv's,
Some times the sound chime after the seat belt buklet.
Is like a open door.
The problem on this car is that the the DOOR AJAR SWITCH. come danaged. and the Body cumputer don't recievethe door close signal.
But is intermitent.
The door ajar switch is on the door lacth.
You only can get front the dealer.
OK. I hope this information can be useful for you.

Thank you.