Used to be really quiet. now it is very loud and it spins fast no matter what level it's on.
I have a Maytag Bravos Washer - I have the same problem. It cost as much to change the spin bearing as to buy another washer.
Remember its whats inside that maters - I will never ever again buy another Maytag!
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/charles_6bf94c079488b145
Spin solenoid could have water leaking onto it and it stuck on , but noise is most likely caused by bearing getting water into them,dose it leek water on the floor?
SOURCE: Noisy Washer
may be blocked outlet pipe or depending on the model a noisy drive belt, check for blockage if belt do not worry. Regards engineer
SOURCE: Maytag Washer HAV2558AWW loud noise during spin cycle
Your maytag is really an amana and the bearings are bad. Yes it does cost a lot. If i were you i would buy another washer. Get a whirlpool. (whirlpool now owns maytag)
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Series MAH5500BW loud noise during spin cycle.
very loud in spin cycle can mean a bad rear bearing, not something a homeowner would want to try to replace, parts would exceed 6-7 hundered dollars. you may have some extended part warr through the manufacture. still probly gonna be a 5 hundred when the labor is added in
SOURCE: Maytag washer makes loud grinding noise during the spin cycle
if it's making a noise then either your drain pump bearing is going out or your thrust bearing is going out (assuming the noise happens in both spin and wash). Tip the washer backwards so that you can get underneath of it. Take the belt off and spin the pump pulley on the right side. This should spin effortlessly.
The middle pulley is the trustbearing pulley. Spin this--- one direction it should have a little bit of resistance--- the other should have more resistance
SOURCE: My washer runs fine until the spin cycle then it
The noise was indeed coming from the water pump. To clean the pump on this top-loader you have to unplug it, pop the top open, and remove the front face of the cabinet to expose the motor and pump. Slip off the two metal clips hugging the pump to the motor. Place a towel under the motor before detaching the hoses - there's a plastic drip pan between the pump and motor to guide the water away from the motor. Unclamp the two hoses from the pump by squeezing their spring-clamps with pliers and sliding them further down the hose. Pull the hoses off by lifting the pump off its axle and pulling it out while wiggling the hoses loose. I found a small sock jammed in the pump - it must have fallen to the outside of the basket but inside the drum during the last spin cycle, and went down the drain hose. Check the pump for damage and replace if necessary. For future troubleshooting, remember that a clogged pump causes squealing, diminished spin speed, and slow drainage.
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