Shutter actions quickly, with a well lit area. I have tried multiple lenses. Tried high aperture and shutter speed and it will not white out, just started for no reason.
This has been showing up in the autofocus mode of Nikon DSLRs of all flavors for years. There's some indication it may be due to an underlubricated gear causing the shutter to fire at a faster speed than indicated, but most of the evidence seems to point to a random glitch in the firmware.
Probably need more info than what you supplied. Are you in "auto mode" (Green button?) Or are you trying aperture priority or shutter speed priority? If you set the camera on manual or shutter speed priority and set your shutter to 15 seconds or slower, can you hear the shutter open and then close 15 seconds later or is it closing right away?
Try manual mode setting f/3.5 and 15 second shutter in a bright area? You may have to set your camera on manual focus as well. Does that cause a white out for you?
At the risk of being too basic (and I apologize if I am), More light is a wide open aperture (small number like 2.8, 3.5) and more light for shutter is longer time (5 seconds is a really long time).
Check your exposure value (Ev +/-) settings to be sure it has not moved from 0. A -2 EV can cause all photos to be underexposed.
Respond so I know what you're finding.
It sounds like your exposure compensation which may be incorrectly adjusted. On the top of the camera and just to the behind and to the right of the on-off control, you will see a button with a + an - symbol. That is the exposure compensation control. While pushing and holding that button, look at the LCD and rotate the rear thumbwheel left and right. You will notice that if you rotate the wheel clockwise, the number increases from 0.0. Rotating the wheel counterclockwise causes the number to decrease into the negative. Makes sure the setting is 0.0 and let me know if that soulves the problem.
Is there a lot of white or light colors in the picture...for instance sand at the beach? White clouds in the sky? White clothing? The light meter wants to have most of the picture medium gray and adjusts the exposure accordingly. If you shoot a man wearing a white shirt on auto mode the camera would underexpose the image to make the shirt medium gray. Try using the CA mode instead. You can tweak the exposure there.
SOURCE: No picture is taken when shutter release button is pressed
Are those NiMH batteries? Have you tried resetting the camera? If no standard way, just take out batteries for a few minutes, the more the merrier, let the tension build, and replace them. Try tapping on the lens area, it might loose something up. Best I can do, know it aint much ;] Good luck!
SOURCE: need fast shutter speed
First, the flash on your camera is completely useless for taking shots from the distance you are probably shooting at (>20 feet, right?). So, just put the flash down and forget about it for now. There are several ways of addressing your problem.
Your camera is trying to tell you that you don't have enough light. This is true, since the faster the shutter speed, the less light is allowed to reach the sensor. You can either increase the light reaching it or change the settings to allow it to make do with less.
The ways to increase the light that hits the sensor are: Open the lens' aperture to a wider (lower f-stop) setting, turn the lights up in the place you are photographing, use a slow shutter speed. I'm assuming you don't want the last one, you probably can't do the second and you have the lens as wide as it will go. So the only real way for you to do that is to buy a faster lens. Unfortunately, by buying the D40X you can't use the vast majority of Nikon lenses - only AFS lenses work on that camera because Nikon saved the $50 or so it cost to put the auto-focus motor in the camera. This by the way is the reason you should never have bought this camera. The choices for fast AFS lenses are few, and generally expensive. (I use an 85mm f-1.8 which I got used for just over $100 quite often for this kind of thing, you can't do that.)
Okay, enough of this, on to the last way to solve your problem - changing the settings to allow your camera to make do with less light. The ISO setting is essentially the gain of the sensor - like the volume knob on a radio. While listening to music on your radio, if particular passage is soft, you can turn up the volume to make what comes out of the speakers reasonably loud. The same can be done with your camera. Find the ISO setting and change that from what it is (probably 200 or 400) to something higher - 800 as a start. If you were set at 200, this is now a 4 times higher gain setting, so you can use a 4 times faster shutter speed, or shoot with 4 times less light, etc.
Of course, as with the volume knob on the radio there are two problems with this. First, you have probably noticed that soft music with the volume cranked up results in "noise" in the background. Same thing with your pictures. Second, on that radio if you forget to turn the volume back down when the music level rises, then you will get all kinds of distortion from the "clipping" and the same will happen if you leave the ISO setting turned up when you go outside into the Sun.
In general, the ISO "noise" will look worse if you use a high saturation setting, so if you adjust the image saturation settings down, it will be MUCH less noticeable. In fact, if you turn down as far as it will go, and then convert the images to B&W, you can probably use the 1600 ISO and have it look just fine.
Good luck.
SOURCE: Aperture and Shutter Speed for the Nikon Coolpix s550
Go to the shooting menu and then press the ISO sensitivity option
SOURCE: Nikon D60 Digital SLR--Slow Shutter Speed
Your're probably using a flash with TTL disabled. So 1/200 is the highest sync possible with that kind of flash. Did you try removing the flash off the body and setting faster shutter speeds?
SOURCE: Why is there a delay?? Nikon D90
Sounds like you turned on Exposure delay mode (menu d10). This is similar to the "locking up the mirror" (or somethign) feature on canons.
YOu only need it when you doing a tripod shot with long exposure and you want to minimise absolutly all possibility of shake from the camera its self. Lifting the SLR mirror will cause small shake. Generally you can turn this off (i've felt it ona few times my accident and been confused for a second)
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