Need help wiring a max-e-therm heater. Wired heater to 120 volt source, placed the 120 volt 12 pin harness in place of the 240 volt harness. Connected the red wire from the heater to white(neutral wire) and black to black, green to ground...breaker trips when circuits energized.

If you need 240 volts only, it should work. If the tanner uses both 120/240, (which I would expect), you will need 10/3 with ground (it appears in the jpeg that you are using 10/2 with ground).

For 240 volts, 10/2 has two conductors,. Measuring with a voltmeter between each leg you get 240 volts. With 10/3 the third conductor is a neutral (there is no neutral in a 120 volt circuit). This carries the unbalanced load between the two legs and allows the appliance to use 120 volts as well. The conductor coloring is usually black, red for the power legs and a white grounded conductor (with a bare, grounding conductor).

If the cord has four pins , it needs 10/3 with ground. If it has three pins (240 volt only) the recept is probably wired wrong.

Not quite sure what your question is - Are you trying to plug a 240 into a 110/120 outlet? Or are you trying to plug this into a 240 3 prong outlet?

Traditionally, table saws don't come with a power cord - you must supply one. Usually on the motor there is a metal plate that describes volts/amps/phase/hp etc. Get the Volts/Amps from this plate, then measure the approximate distance between your table saw and the 240 outlet. The gauge of the power cord depends upon the Volt/Amps and the length of the cord. There are many volts/amps vs length for wire gauge conversions on the net. I always get a bigger wire (smaller gauge) than what is recommended. Expect to pay $100 or more for the cord (don't be cheap here). If you have an under rated cord, you can start a fire, burn up your motor, melt plugs into outlets and have to replace the outlet (don't ask how I know).

I'm a little suspicious of the "white and black" wire from 240 - it's usually "white and red" with a "black" ground. 240 is made from two 120's - opposite sine wave. So black is usually the common ground, while the white and red are the two 120's. Volts between white-red=240, white-black=120, red-black=120. If you're absolutely sure that white-black=240, then you can just connect a ground wire to the motor case. Many home table saws can be wired for 240 or 120 - you need to make sure that you're hooking 240v to the correct wires. If you're uncertain at all, then don't do it.

I have wired 120 to a 240 motor by accident and the motor ran - it had no power and didn't spin at full RPM. You can damage a motor this way, so I wouldn't recommend it. I have never put 240 to a 120 motor - so I don't know what happens (guessing you could burn up the motor coils).

With all that being said, if you have 240 outlet with 3 wire receptacle, then just use a multi-meter to determine the 2 "hot" and the 1 ground. Volts from hot1-hot2=240, hot1-ground=120, hot2-ground=120. If you don't have a multi-meter, buy one (approx $12). Once you have it wired up, then try the motor by flipping the switch on then off again. If the motor didn't spin, then you did something wrong. If it hummed but didn't spin, you have some connections wrong inside of the motor. If it spins the wrong way, then your wiring inside of the motor is wrong (doesn't help to flip the wires on the outlet). If you blew a circuit breaker, then the wiring to the motor is wrong.

Dear ,

Please try the below solutions,

Solution 1:
If the blower prover switch does not close after the blower starts the control will stop the ignition trial go into lockout. The blower will continue to run. Automatic reset is immediate after the switch closes
Solution 2:
If the blower prover switch opens unexpectedly during operation the control will shut down and attempt to re-light. If the switch does not close after the blower starts the control will go into lockout with the blower running. Automatic reset is immediate after error is corrected
Solution 3:
If the blower prover switch opens during the postpurge cycle (heater is not fir- ing) the control will display the error code. The post-purge cycle will be com- pleted once the blower prover switch close
Regards,
Samy

Bring in the proper voltage available, to designated wires and then "Make Sure" you use the correct plug 120 or 240 !!!!
This is an internal plug at the heater. A 240 plug is in place at time of purchase, if you only bring in 120 volts, then remove the plug and plug in the provided 120 plug.

You need to check the breakers or the actual power because I see the 1614 model as being 240 Volts. Unless you can change that rating inside the unit itself and it has been set to 120 Volts. IT appears from the wiring code you listed that the building wires are 120 volts. However a meter would be the definitive answer. When you are running 240 or higher (double phase) Black and Red are hot and white is neutral If it is 110 then black is hot and white is neutral. Since I cannot tell from the description posted whether the red is source or inside the heater, you really need a volt meter.

A number 12 copper supply cable at the voltage is overkill for this load.

Ohm's Law states: Watts = Volts x Amps. To find Amps: Amps = Watts / Volts. This is 1500W / 240V = 6.25 Amps. Since the max continuous load for a 14 copper is 12 Amps, this size wire is the correct size.

Check to make sure the heater is in fact a 240 volt type, as if it is a 120 volt type, you are likely instantly burning out the heating element. If it is indeed a 120 volt heater, you will need to connect to a single pole 15 amp breaker and place the other wire that was on the breaker to neutral to provide the correct voltage. The load will still be 1500W, but at half the voltage, the current will double to 12.5 amps, and may cause the circuit breaker to trip after a while.

I hope this helps & good luck.

get the right t-stat

look at your voltage 120 volts, or 240 volts, then amp rating. #8 THHN wire, or #8 romax is only rated for about 40 to 50 amps, your ground wire would be a # 12.

If your baseboard heater is rated at 220 VAC and you have wired it to a 120 VAC source then the heater will only produce about 1/4 of its rated output wattage. So, if you have a 2000 W / 240 V heater it will only produce about 500 W at 120 V. You may want to have an experienced technician wire it for you if you are not sure what you are doing. Please be careful and smart when dealing with electricity!!

Need front grill for singer model WJA-12 wall heater Cat # 9756-A
single phase 60 HZ
240 volts 5.2 Amps
1250 Watts
Where can I find it?