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You may be missing some spacers and/or bolts to secure the fan properly. The fan could also be damaged. For example, the fins may be bent, the shaft is bent/misaligned, the fan blade assembly has seperated from the shaft, or the fan housing is bent or broken causing the blades to hit the radiator.
It sounds like the unit is cycling on internal overload. The overload is switch the protects the motor from getting too warm. This would explain your cooling "cycling".
Check the condenser (the outside coil with vertical fins, the back of the unit). Is it clear of any debris? If not clean it using water or compressed air, using care not to bend or damage the fins or electrical wires/components.
Check the condenser fan motor. You can usually see the condenser fan motor through vents in the sheet metal. Check to see the the condenser fan motor runs when cooling is turned on, secondly check to make sure the fan blade is not broken, usually the blades are plastic. If the motor or fan blade is bad, you need a replacement.
Put a long prybar in the way of the fan blades at the base of the fin to keep it from turning.
Or, if that doesn't work, use a pneumatic impact ratchet or 3/8" impact wrench to unscrew the fan more easily while holding the fan blade with your hand and a rag.
1. Could be a caught foreign object between A/C (air conditioning) fan and cooling radiator, producing this loud noise. 2. Could be a damaged fan blade, mowing the cooling radiator. 3. Could be a loud noise comming from the fan's electrical motor. 4. Could be a broken off fin (small wing) of the cooling radiator, striking the A/C fan, producing this loud noise.
* Fan operation can be checked by spinning the fan by hand. * A noticeable wobble or any blade that is not in the same plane as the rest indicates that replacement is in order. The fan can also be checked by removing it and laying it on a flat surface. If it is straight, all the blades should touch the surface. Never attempt to straighten a damaged cooling fan. Bending it back into shape might seem easier (and cheaper) than replacing it, but doing so is risky. Whenever metal is bent, it is weakened. * Fan clutches use a fluid-filled chamber (usually silicone) to turn the fan. Obviously, loss of the drive fluid will render the fan useless. * One of the simplest checks is to visually inspect the fan clutch for signs of fluid loss. * Oily streaks radiating outward from the hub shaft mean fluid has leaked out past the bearing seal. * Most fan clutches offer a slight amount of resistance if turned by hand when the engine is cold. They offer drag when the engine is hot. If the fan freewheels easily hot or cold, replace the clutch. * Another check that should be made is to push the tip of a fan blade in and out. Any visible looseness in the shaft bearing means the fan clutch should be replaced. * Fan blades are balanced at the time of manufacture but can be bent if handled carelessly. * Likewise, fan clutches are machined very accurately to run true. However, rough handling at the time of pump replacement causes nicks and dents on the mounting faces. This can cause the fan blade to be installed crookedly. Serious trouble might follow soon after the car is back in service. * Therefore, handle fan clutches and blades with care and be sure to file away any nicks, burrs, or dents someone else might have caused. Obviously, if any fins have been broken off the fan clutch, it must be replaced.
you can goto a habitat for humanity store they would have full or seperate blades or heck even a junker fan here with your blades for cheap or a thrift store but if your looking for correct size blades the most reliable place ive been able to order from is true value store
Most of these fans have a small dowell pin that goes through the fan blade sleeve and through the shaft look for a pin on the side of the fan blade sleeve then you will need a pin punch to push this pin through. After you do this save the pin or dowell because you will need it to attach the new fan.
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