Mah9700aww manual machine won't start replace stator and drum, water pressure valve and door switch.

need to check the water pressure switch and the water tube line along the side of tub see pics



No wash agitation or spin? try these:



WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?

You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.

If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good

( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.

Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?

Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.



Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.

# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.

(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.

.





Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.



mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.



Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.





Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.



Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.



Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.





CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)

Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w



By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

I WOULD SUSPECT BAD DOOR SWITCH BUT THE FUNNY NOISE LEADS ME ELSEWHERE? LIKE BAD MOTOR COUPLER OR DRIVE BLOCK? IS IT BELT OR DIRECT DRIVE? SLIPPING WORN BELT CAN DO THAT TOO.

No wash agitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.

Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No agitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.
If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.
Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8
Check this link to replace the inlet valve:
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

It ispossible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errorsdue to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main programcontroller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting fromthe flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit thewater at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then thevoltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to novoltage from the controller. This meansthe controller is a suspect.If thewater flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not theinlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at theinlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVELSENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen levelto give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What ismost important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch mustbe ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor forrinse and wash.Check thislink to replace the inlet valve:http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

It ispossible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errorsdue to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main programcontroller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting fromthe flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit thewater at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then thevoltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to novoltage from the controller. This meansthe controller is a suspect.If thewater flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not theinlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at theinlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVELSENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen levelto give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What ismost important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch mustbe ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor forrinse and wash.Check thislink to replace the inlet valve:http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

I can only assume it's because you have no water connected to it. Some washers have a pressure switch that won't allow the machine to turn on without it being connected...try it and see what happens.