Only fan running bu no cooling

SOURCE: high cool and low cool not working

Hi,
Pls check the following....
1) Fix the wire connector to Reversing vale
2) Check the Capacitor if this a low capacitance or (open) not function using Multi-tester.
3) Check the Selector switch if this is not function using Multi-tester . or check the PCB Board (if electronic your units) replaced the Board.

If not yet,go to the nearest repairman to repair that units.

Thank you,have a nice day.


Edgz

SOURCE: Won't heat or cool

as a general rule you sound like you have a compressor that is mechnically locked up. in other words it can't free itself from a stationary position and begin pumping and moving the piston. this is caused by one of several things. first kill power ,and carefully, and methodically examine all wires and terminal connections. be sure all are clean , snug and not burnt off etc. even the ones attached to the compressor itself. the compressor wire cover comes gently off and is usually held in place by a spring clamp be sure to replace when your done checking. if all wires check good then go to step two. that is a check of the capacitors. the silver metal large capacitor is the run capacitor. it keeps the compressor power in the windings out of phase so it runs same way everytime. it has a rated value stamped on its side. it should check with a volt meter that checks capacitors at not less than 90 percent of its rating . a 60 needs to check no less than 54 microfareds. etc. some capacitors have a common input side and a dual output side. they are labeled on top where the wires connect.one goes to the condensor fan and the other goes to the compressor. the larger circuit ,common in, to herm out is for the compressor. if in doubt label all wires , make a diagram and remove it and take to an electric motor shop and let them test it. in addition to the run capacitor that keeps the compressor going, you may also have a start cap that is usually black plastic. they have a" Yes by gosh you will" start function and store up voltage and deliver a powerful boost on start up to make the compressor get going. it can be tested the same way. be sure to ground the capacitors before testing after power is turned off by shorting across the terminals to bleed off any stored voltage. , with a screwdriver blade. by the way if you look at the silver run capacitor and its swollen up or bloated looking then its bad. you'll know what i mean if you ever see one. looks like it has the mumps. they really puff up. top and bottom should be normally close to flat. if all that checks good then you must apply and amp probe to the black wire going to the compressor. when it tries to start observe the amp draw. if it is like 48 to 65 amps then the compressor is mechically locked up and probably needs replacing. if you don't have a plastic hard start capacitor and relay you can add one and it can many times break the compressor loose and you can get a few more years out of a compressor thats getting weak. try a T05 hard start kit or a KS1 hard start kit. to5 for up to three ton and a ks1 for 4 and 5 ton. simple to install .be sure the start relay is positoned correctly, instructions are on the package. good luck let me know outcome.

SOURCE: Amana Cooling Condensing Unit fan stops spinning after 15 mins

Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.

SOURCE: our central air unit fan will not stop running.

It's the thermostat or the thermostat was wired wrong.

SOURCE: Amana PTAC

I know this is late but I had to add a solution to this problem since I had the exact same problem and was able to solve it. The probelm is not your control board. On these units, the heat pump compressor will not kick in unless the temperature you set on the control panel is within 2-1/4 degrees (or 4 degrees depending on your unit model. Otherwise, the unit locks out the compressor until the electric heat coil bring the indoor temperature up to that level - and then will switch the compressor back on for heat pump operation. So the problem is not the control panel or the compressor, it the electric heat coil. The coil has two manual limit switches on it that may be tripped and should be checked. The coil can be easily accessed by shutting down the power, removing 4 screws around the air outlet, pushing the screen up and sliding the panel out the top. The power wires can remain in place while the limit switches are reset. Hope it works.