How do you replace a oil pump trim line return hose for a 1996 crownline 182 br on a 4.3 mercruiser engine?

it means the 02 sensors are dead. (them or worse)
62 seems way way too high , the service manual tell you spec on this
keyon,, idle and WOT, pressure spec, only that matters
as does injector leakdown tests and injector balance tests.
learn this
the O2 sensors can only do a fine tune on fuel.
if there are exhaust leaks, o2 lie
if there are stuck head valves 02 lie (each slug of air does that)
gross misfiring, P017x codes trim error.s
that means the PCM can not do trim at all.
the engine hot is not in closed loop as it must be. for this above reasons.

no vin told no country told no full engine spec name told at all
no service manual to read for sure injection and pressure test.
and FPR tests for proper regulation at all engine loads.
cant be done blind, zero books./
5 engine there are for 325i no 325XI, 2.5L engine gas.
the new FPR page shows 51PSI not not 62
FPR has 4 nippples n it, 2 for fuel and 1 vacuum it seems
if I am right on this FPR, there are 3 pressures to test,
keyon, idle and WOT
vacuum in the plenum does that and is engine load.
at key on and wot psi is highes
and idle lowest. and is in the manual and my one line BMW pages stinks to high heaven.
zero FPRR chapters there, sadly

here is fpr
if vac hose 4 falls off PSI is max. due to vac MIN>
port 1,2,3 , one is pump input, one is to rails and one is return to tank line my best guess. which one is which IDK.

rail pressure is what matters,
key on pressure is highest and idle is lowest.
if not fuel trim fails hard. no 02 can cure insane high fuel pressure. the PSI drop is about 5psi.
sorry i do not have the real service manuals
5 psi less than atmospheric pressure (keyon)
also called "constant differential pressure" on the injector and FPR does that magic.
on newer cars have FPR sensor and can correct pump or FPR errors. but not yours.

With engine running, steering turned hard right or left, can you see the fluid churn in the power steering reservoir? If not, maybe one of the power steering lines is blocked?

I just wanted to add, with some makes and models. With everything off, I remove the power steering belt. I take the return line loose from pump, aim into container, rotate the pulley by hand, see if any fluid comes out of return line? The return line should be low pressure, usually held to pump by hose clamp. The high pressure line has threaded fittings.

STEERING SYSTEM - POWER -1996 Chrysler Concorde LX

POWER STEERING PRESSURE HOSE

Removal

WARNING: On models with Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), before any repairs are performed, disconnect and isolate battery ground cable. Failure to do so could result in accidental deployment of the air bag and possible personal injury.


1. Turn front wheels to straight-ahead position. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable. On 3.5L engine, disconnect throttle cable from throttle body and cable bracket. On all models, remove wiper arms from wiper arm pivots. Remove 6 screws, cowl closure panel and weatherstrip as an assembly. 3. Disconnect air plenum from throttle body, PCV air tube and idle air control motor. Remove air plenum from right side of vehicle. Disconnect wiper module wiring harness. Remove wiper module from cowl panel. Remove power brake booster vacuum hose from intake manifold. Position hose aside. 4. On 3.5L models, disconnect and remove air inlet ducting to throttle bodies. Remove vacuum supply hose from power booster. Remove 2 nuts and remove brake master cylinder from power booster, with hydraulic lines connected, from power brake booster. Carefully position master cylinder against left shock tower. (REMOVE brake master cylinder only if it's in your way) 5. Remove P/S pressure hose and return hose from P/S gear. If equipped with speed proportional steering, disconnect electrical connectors from solenoid control module. Under number 5 above, only remove what you have to get out of your way, in order to remove the line that's leaking. If I remember right, the low pressure line comes off first. You may need to remove that big solenoid control module thing also, if it's in the way. A big crescent wrench I think is what I used on it. Or maybe it was a small crescent wrench with a large jaw.... Don't over tighten it when reinstalling. These things don't go in very tight. Neither do the lines. If in doubt, look up the torque spec on them first. The solenoid, I just put in a hair past snug. It didn't leak.

The pump side of the pressure line was a bear to get off of there. I finally cut it off. Then unscrewed part of the pump and the piece of the power steering line that was left hanging out. Put it in a bench vice, and wrenched them loose there. Put it back together with the new NAPA hose, and it works, and hasn't leaked a drop. Good Luck to you.

I know the numbering isn't quite right. That's because I borrowed this writeup from a post regarding power steering rack replacement, and edited it up to fit your situation. If you google the power steering rack replacement, you may find the torque specs for the power steering lines there. But you'll still have to use your arm as the torque wrench....

Lots of ideas...
1 litre of oil every 500km is very heavy consumption if it has no major leaks. Oil on overrun and taking off from lights is a strong indication the valve stem seals are hard and worn out.
You can try a product called AT205 reseal and add it to your oil - It contains a plasticiser to restore the rubber, rather than a softening and swelling agent like stop smoke products. However, your engine may have bigger problems than just valve stems.

Using that much oil may have fouled the spark plugs. Pull them all out and inspect for carbon build up and general black oily coating. Cleaning them with a wire brush at that stage may restore some performance to the plugs, but they will foul again quickly.

Running for 2 secs is pretty normal practice for fuel pumps. It's part of the safety features to prevent under bonnet fires and engine flooding. If you suspect the fuel pump, do either a pressure test, or flow test.
Both will require a method of bypassing the ignition cut out of the ignition. You can normally do this by feeding direct battery or ignition power to the fuel pump fuse. Just make sure you can switch it off.
Pressure testing is normally a professional job as it requires a pressure gauge to be installed on the fuel rail, then run the pump and see what pressure is produced (should be about 4 bar, or 60psi).
The flow test is more home hobbyist mechanic level. Disconnect the low pressure fuel return line from the outflow side of the fuel pressure regulator. Place a length of fuel line on the fuel pressure regulator and direct it into a small container you can locate in the engine bay, preferably below fuel rail level.
Turn on the fuel pump (using whichever hotwire method you've chosen) and run for approx 15 secs.
The amount of fuel in the container will vary from car to car, but a 200-300ml (around 7-10 oz, or whatever method you measure by) is a good number. And the fact it can pump past the fuel pressure regulator (and thus is pressurising the fuel rail) is also a good sign.

Ok, you have two ventilation hoses on the bike. First, the oil line from the tank goes to the inlet side of the oil pump facing the rear of the bike. The return line comes off the front side of the pump and goes to the oil filter. From there, the return line goes to the return fitting on the oil tank.

Now, there is one crankcase vent hose that comes out of the cam chest behind the front chain sprocket cover and runs to the backside of the oil tank. Then there is another one that comes from the top front of the cam chest and goes to the backside of the breather.

Now, the older Sportsters were notorious for shearing the scavenge gear drive pin. When this happened, the pump would pump all the oil into the engine but the it couldn't pump it back out. The engine would be full of oil, literally. Oil will come out of every seam on the engine. Look in the oil tank and see if it's dry. If so, the oil is all in the engine.

If this turns out to be the case, I can tell you how to replace the drive pin but it's not a job for the faint of heart as I recommend pulling the engine out of the frame. It can be done with the engine in the frame but in my opinion, it's a lot harder.

Good luck.
Steve

Removal procedures :
1. Remove the rear seat cushion
2. To reduce the internal pressure of the fuel lines and hoses, first start the engine and then disconnect the electrical fuel pump connector. Be sure to reduce the fuel pressure before disconnecting the fuel main pipe and hose otherwise fuel will spill out.
3. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
4. Remove the high pressure hose and fuel return hose.
5. Remove the fuel pump assembly.
Installation procedure is the reverse order of the removal.

www.autozone.com

They can get all the parts. They also provide haynes repair manuals, any special tools (probably not required for this vehicle) and any special disassembly instructions.

I hope this helps.