How will I open to clean burrs

their pop rivets you drill them out

I would check closely to be sure, oftentimes small torx are used. If you need to replace rivets they should be drilled out with a cordless drill and small drill bit at the center of the rivet. You have to go all the way through and then the rivet flange should wedge itself on the drill bit as it passes through. You can replace the rivets will small (self tapping) sheet metal screws of the same hole size to close it back up later. Remember to follow the mfr's instructions precisely when converting from Natural Gas to LP. Check for leaks using soapy water and disconnect the igniter by unplugging the power cord until you are sure it isn't leaking anywhere.

If housing has screws you take the screws out and take the housing off but if the housing has rivets you take a small drill bit and a cordless or electric drill and drill the rivets out being careful not to make the rivet holes any bigger. Take the housing off and replace the cord then get some same size rivets and a rivet gun and replace the housing riveting it back on. Make sure the housing goes back on the same way it came out.

there are a number of 'newer' drive configurations for modern fasteners specifically designed to limit consumers from doing their own servicing. Take the unit to your local tool dealer and get the proper tool. If it actually is a rivet, it will need to be drilled out and then replaced with a new one.

It may be pop riveted, I know on the WR the plastic guard is fitted in Australia, not Japan, and they use what is called a rivnut, which is like a rivet but leaves a thread to screw into.
So if it looks like a pop rivet, it may be.

Hi
If you only got the lower burr it won't work. They should be matching burrs.
If you don't do it right, you will damage the grinder. You need a #10 Torex bit.

Insert the bit into the screw in the middle of a very clean grinder. Turn clockwise to loosen. Once the screw is out, pull the burr out, but be careful. There are ball bearings and springs under the burr. Make sure that everything is clean before reassembly. There are 3 holes in the bottom of the grinder. The springs go into the holes first. Then the ball bearings set on top of the springs. Place the new lower burr on top of the springs. A washer and the corkscrew go in next. Insert the screw in and with the bit in place turn (with a little down force) clockwise until the screw drops into place, then turn counterclockwise. It should turn fairly easy. Once you start putting pressure on the springs, try to turn the corkscrew. There is a notch that it slips into in the bottom of the grinder. Once it locks into place keep turning the screw until you start to turn the burr. That should be tight enough. Now reassemble the top burr and adjust.

the rails are riveted or screwed to the roof screws are easy obviously,rivets need to be gently drilled out by a drill size that just is a tiny bit larger than the hole in the middle of the rivet and drill till the top of the rivet pops off(not much drilling required,then you need to block off all the holes otherwise the roof will rust through,you may need to clean and seal it carefully

Fix #1
These are usually riveted on. If you can find a small enough aluminum pop rivet (most lids are aluminum), you could pin it back together with that. The tricky part is ensuring that the rivet allows the vent to rotate between the opened and closed positions. I suggest cutting out two pieces of non-corrugated cardboard from a cereal box and punching out a hole in each the same diameter as the rivet. Use one on each side of the lid for a washer for the rivet. Include an aluminum washer for the tail end of the rivet. Your parts stack from the inside of the lid should be rivet (head end), cardboard washer, vent piece, lid, cardboard washer, metal washer. The pop rivet will be compressed against the metal washer on the outside when you operate the riveting tool. I suggest having the head on the inside of the lid because it will be easier to clean.

After you compress the rivet, tear the cardboard washers out. The vent should now pivot correctly.

Fix # 2
Use a 2-56 x 1/4 stainless steel screw (or similar metric size) and two stainless steel nuts. Assemble the vent to the lid using the screw and one of the nuts. Tighten the nut only until it starts to drag on the vent, then back it off slightly. Next, put the other nut on. Hold the first nut in place and tighten the second nut down onto it to lock it in place on the screw. The vent should still turn freely, but the nuts won't come off without tools if you did it properly.

Do not use plated or plain steel hardware. These will contaminate your food.

EASY get a machine screw, nut with washer. I believe I used a 1/8" machine screw.....(find something small to fit in the hole on the bottom hinge.

First step, take 3 screws off bottom to expose hinge area. Have someone hold it or support it so wires to the light do not pull out,.

Pop the machine screw through the front and then with your fingers get the washer an nut and tighten down.
If you want the professsional look. Paint the machine screw white first with a enamel white paint.

most likley you have a rough surface in the drum, you may have had a underwire from a bra poking through one of the holes in the drum which has now distorted the hole allowing a sharp edge to protrude inward and damage the clothes. empty the machine use a torch if needed and rotare the drum looking at the surface for inperfections (dipmles in the reflection of the surface) once found use something wood or plastic to push the burr outward) away from the clothes I used to use a soft screw driver handle to move the burr away. if its not this then check the door gasket these can wear away and start to tear clothes but this usually looks more like a burn than a small hole.