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It may be a left hand thread. In normal motion, the drive should tighten the nut. This sometimes results in having a left hand thread. Bicycle pedals are a prime example, one is right hand and one is left hand. Give it a sharp tap CLOCKWISE.
Old question, but maybe this will help others:
Here is the answer for all Cox Stockman machines fitted with a single large bolt through clutch cone. Below it you'll find a VERY GOOD REASON WHY YOU SHOULD NOT DO IT!!!
1. Disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery.
2. Loosen the four bolts that secure the engine and slide engine backwards.
3. Remove the 'R Clip' on the link rod at the front of the clutch carrier, then disconnect the link rod.
4. Loosen all four grub screws on the drive plates and slide them as far out as you can.
5. Raise the rear of the machine and secure with axle stands or some other method that will leave you with a SAFE WORKPLACE!
6. Remove the 9/16" locknut on the clutch pivot bolt (under the rear of the machine), then unscrew the pivot bolt. Do not try to drive it out with a punch, as it is screwed into the adjusting plate.
7. When bolt is removed, slide the rear of the carrier across to one side and the front of the carrier to the other side ( to clear the bracket at the front of the carrier) and work the whole assembly forward enough to clear the rear chassis rail. Then drop it down and remove the assembly from the machine.
To replace the cone, lock the large bolt head into a vice, then use a 2 or three pronged lock bar to unscrew the pulley from the bottom of the bolt. Then, fit a new cone onto the bolt and reverse teh entire process.
Now, here's why you should NOT DO THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you don't read this part, I absolutely guarantee that it will end up costing you far more money than if you'd sent the machine to a Cox Service agent ( I am one).
About the only thing on any Cox machine that requires specialist knowledge and tooling to correctly repair, is the drive cone clutch system. Removing and replacing the drive cone itself is the easiest part of the process and I have seen it done by plenty of people. I've also spent plenty of time then fitting another new cone to their machine, because the one they put on is now stuffed. The drive cone is just one part of an assembly and if the entire job is not done correctly the FIRST TIME, the new cone can be destroyed in a very short time. And the only way to do the entire job correctly is to have the special tools and knowledge. No if's, no but's and no maybe's!
Tire chains should be installed on the drive wheels of the vehicle following the chain manufacturer's instructions, To retain as much of the normal handling characteristics of 4WD/AWD vehicles as possible, tire chains should be installed on all four tires, requiring the purchase of two pairs of tire chains.
Buy chains that are the correct size for the tires. A proper fit is key to receiving the desired performance and durability. Do not deflate tires to install tire chains. A correctly sized tire chain will fit over a properly inflated tire. Additionally, because there is typically no source of compressed air to refill a deflated tire, driving with low tire pressure may cause permanent damage to the tire. Snow chains may not be available for all tire sizes.
Use only SAE Class "S" chains. The restricted wheel well clearance in most of today's down-sized and front drive vehicles require tire chains to operate in an envelope that is no greater than 1.46-inches vertically and .59-inches laterally around the tire. These minimum clearances must be maintained between the tires and the vehicle's fenders, suspension, struts, brake lines and braces.
It is important to pre-fit chains prior to actual use. Being faced with the choice of either damaging their vehicle or not completing a journey if the tire chains didn't fit is not a choice many drivers would want to have to make. Pre-fitting the chains will also allow the driver to become familiar with their installation. Since tire chains will only be required when the weather is at its worst, who would want to learn how to install them during a blizzard?
You may want to buy a tire chain installation helper. These small ramps are designed to prevent slipping and allow you to lay a cross chain in a pre-formed indentation. Once you drive onto the ramp, the chains are positioned under your tire for easier installation following the manufacturer's directions.
Tire chains should always be carried in the trunk during the appropriate times of the year and only mounted on the vehicle when warranted by driving conditions or required by law.
I assume you have the correct chain for the bar and that the sprocket on the end of the chain bar goes around. Check the bar for any defects like pinches where the bar has been caught. Check the chain drive cogs for any burs on the edges - often happens if the chain has been run too slack and then come off!
Check the chain drive teeth thickness which should be the same as the chain bar can accept. Check also you have the right pitch chain for the drive teeth on the clutch sprocket. Assuming the chain brake is not on then you should be able to move the chain around the bar when all the slack has been taken out. If the chain and bar checks are all ok then there is a problem with the clutch. With the chain brake off the clutch with the chain drive sprocket on should spin reasonably freely. If not then you need to remove the 'E' shaped circlip in the centre of the clutch drum , remove the washer behind it and slide off the clutch drum. Then remove the roller bearing and be prepared to replace it if it will not run freely. Clean out all the muck in the clutch housing and check for anything obviously broken. If all appears ok then put a few drops of 2 stroke oil on the roller bearing and replace it on the shaft. Clean the clutch drum and replace it on the shaft. Then the washer and 'E' clip and re-fit the bar and chain. Re-fit the cover and tension the chain and try again. If that does not do it then there has to be a problem with the chain bar.
No problem at all. Just need to make sure the two studs attaching the bar to the motor head fit correctly. Of course, the former chain is now too long. Either have a saw shop make you a 'loop' to fit, usually $1/inch of bar=$16 for your new setup, or try a prepackaged chain labelled for the 16 inch bar. I recommend the former, because then you get an expert to look over your new setup for you. Shop chains are usually better quality, always fit correctly, and cost no more, often less, than department store chains
Does it not fit the gears, or is it too loose when installed ? Does the new chain fit the old gears ? Is there a tensioner or guide not installed correctly ?
Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle. Remove the bar nuts and remove the clutch cover (chain brake). Take off the transportation ring. Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket locate it in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top edge of the bar.
Make sure that the edges of the cutting links are facing forward on the top edge of the bar. Fit the clutch cover (chain brake) and locate the chain adjuster pin in the cut-out in the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that the chain is in the groove on the bar. Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight. Tension the chain by turning the chain tensioning screw clockwise using the combination spanner. The chain should be tensioned until it does not sag from the underside of the bar. The chain is correctly tensioned when it does not sag from the underside of the bar, but can still be turned easily by hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the combination spanner. When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain ensures good cutting performance and long life.
First WHY would you use a erecting DIAGONAL in a reflector style telescope. Upside down images are completely normal for an astronomical telescope. You only need this diagonal for terrestrial viewing NOT for star gazing. ALL astronomical telescopes show upside down and or inverted images- it's completely normal.
If you cannot come to focus with the erecting diagonal, it's probably because the diagonal moves the eyepiece too far OUT away from the point where the scope comes to focus. Again-- you do not use those for night time sky viewing. Just stick the eyepiece directly into the focuser.
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