Remove the pulley and punch a hole in the seal with a nail or awl and screw in metal screw and pull out seal with a vise grips or claw hammer etc. Put new one in.
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engine4less.com/ALL-Vertical-shaft-Kohler-Engines/ This engine has same mounting and shaft as all KOHLER Single cylinder ... 1"diameter x 3-5/32" length keyed VERTICAL (UP and DOWN ' ) crankshaft. Please ...
oil seal failure is the main killer of rubber timing belts . Oil can come from the crankshaft seal --the cam shaft seal/s and the hydraulic belt adjuster.. So if you have the front off and am replacing the timing belt then it is fools economy not to replace the seals and any idler pulleys at the same time.
you have to replace front crankshaft seal meaning you have to remove crankshaft pulley.you have to remove timing belt and remove timing belt sprocket and key.
There is a crankshaft seal at the bottom of the case/crankshaft area that can be pulled and replaced. Using a pick or drilling a small hole in the seal and then screwing a small screw into the hole will faciltate seal removal
This design has no tensioner. Check the sprockets for wear on the tips--especially the crank sprocket. With the cover off, turn the crankshaft with a socket and see how close the chain comes to slipping backward on the sprocket. There are complete replacement procedures at AutoZone.com, which I will try to paste in below.
3.3L and 3.8L Engines
See Figure 18
Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines
If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the coolant.
Remove the timing chain case cover. For more information, refer to the Front Timing Cover and Seal procedure, earlier in this section.
Remove the camshaft gear attaching cup washer and remove the timing chain with both gears attached. Remove the timing chain snubber.
To install:
Assemble the timing chain and gears.
Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the key way locations of the gears.
Slide both gears over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to confirm alignment.
Install the cup washer and camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
Check camshaft end-play. The specification with a new plate is 0.002-0.006 in. (0.051-0.052mm) and 0.002-0.010 in. (0.51-0.254mm) with a used plate. Replace the thrust plate if not within specifications.
Install the timing chain snubber.
Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket mating surfaces.
Install new O-rings to the block.
Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover. The seal must be removed from the cover when installing to ensure proper oil pump engagement.
Using a new gasket, install the chain case cover to the engine.
Make certain that the oil pump is engaged onto the crankshaft before proceeding, or severe engine damage will result. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Use tool C-4992, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft oil seal. Install the crankshaft pulley using a 5.9 in. suitable bolt and thrust bearing and washer plate L-4524, or equivalent. Make sure the pulley bottoms out on the crankshaft seal diameter. Install the bolt and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Install all other parts removed during the chain case cover removal procedure and fill the engine with oil.
Connect the negative battery cable, road test the vehicle and check for leaks.
Remove the drive belts from the crankshaft damper.
Remove the crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt. Hold the crankshaft stationary by placing a suitable tool in the ring gear teeth on the flywheel.
Fig. 1: Use a breaker bar to remove the crankshaft damper bolt
Fig. 2: The crankshaft can be held stationary by using a suitable tool to place between the flywheel teeth
Fig. 3: Be sure to lubricate the threads of the crankshaft damper bolt to obtain a proper torque reading
Remove the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft by pulling it straight off the shaft. A puller may be required to remove the damper from the shaft. Be careful not to lose the woodruff key when removing the crankshaft damper.
Fig. 4: The crankshaft damper can sometimes be pulled from the shaft by hand
Fig. 5: A puller may be required to remove the crankshaft damper
NOTE: If working on a VE30DE or VQ30DE engine, it would be a good idea to replace the crankshaft oil seal when the crankshaft damper is removed.
Fig. 6: The timing chain cover oil seal should be replaced whenever the crankshaft damper is removed; this seal is leaking severely
Fig. 7: This crankshaft damper may have a problem sealing properly due to the groove that was worn into it from the seal
To install:
Install the crankshaft damper onto the shaft, making sure the woodruff key is in place. Dip the damper bolt in fresh oil and torque the crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt to the following specifications:
VG30E engine — 90–98 ft.lbs. (123–132 Nm.)
VE30DE engine — 123–130 ft.lbs. (167–177 Nm.)
VQ30DE engine — 29–36 ft.lbs. (39–49 Nm.) followed by 60–66°clockwise angle torque
Install the drive belts to the crankshaft damper; be sure to properly set belt tension.
Front crank shaft oil seal is located behind the crank shaft pulley (A.K.A. the harmonic balancer). If you look from under the car at the bottom pulley on the engine. It will be very wet and oily. This is not an easy job to replace the seal for the inexperienced.
oil seal is worn out from durbis wrapped around crankshaft need to replace oil seal by removing blade and hub
clean cranksaft with fine sand paper
a sharp awl punch in the outter edge corner of seal on a 45 degee angle then slide seal off
Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines 
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