I fear that my washer spin basket has fallen off its track as it were. It rotates, but not properly. Is it supposed to fit in a track or something to ensure proper spinning? I hear a rubbing and a noticeable clunking about twice a revolution when I rotate it by hand.
Sounds like a bad bearing on the rear of the tub. If you remove the rear access panel you will see a large pulley and belt. That attaches to the inner drum (basket) and spins it. It floats on a bearing just behind the pulley. If the bearing is bad then you will be able to move it up and down about .25 to.50 of an inch.
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SOURCE: kenmore elite he3 model # 11044832200 gives me a f15 error code.
it because you change cycles in the wash mode,,over reset...all fixes accept reset unplug .needs technician...if you fell you can do this repost question,,as replacing motor control unit
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite washer wont spin
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.20932992
See the section on the motor and transmission.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft.
Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. This may be the baseball in spokes sound (the plastic prongs clicking together.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 110 does not spin/agitate/drain
OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.
The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.
If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.
Bearing failure in this machine is very common.
I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.
The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.
If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.
This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.
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