The pin what hods the knob on has snaped off at the back can I replace this if so how do I get in to the back to get the old one out and to put the new one in

The blade centre normally has two holes and they drop into corresponding pins the driven spindle. This stops the blade from moving once the screw is in place.

This is a post where a picture is worth a thousand words.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Globe+meat+slicer+parts+diagram

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The spanner tool that Schlage includes with many of their new locks will work on the old ones. Search Google images for "schlage spanner wrench" and you'll see different styles, but they all can be made to work. You remove the inside knob (or lever handle, but let's say it's a knob) by sticking the pin end (or a straightened out large paperclip) into the hole in the knob towards the edge of the door and press in the springy retainer. While pressing in the retainer, pull the knob away from the door. If the pin is all the way in, the knob won't move away more than about 3/32", so after it starts moving, remove the pin and the knob should come off the rest of the way. If the inside knob has a keyhole, then you need to turn the key about 90 degrees, or as far as it will go, before the retainer will move. If you don't have a key, then pick it, or drill the pins so it will turn. If you don't care what happens to the old lock because you are going to replace it, you can cut off the inner knob with a hacksaw. Cut as close to the rose as possible. Once you have the knob off, use the spanner to remove the inside rose trim, and then pull the lock out of the door from the outside.

oh boy these are varied in the way to remove them, but usually under the knob is a pin, or screw and in some cases a u shaped plastic pc that locks timer to knob shaft? in some cases on the back side the shaft has to be pulled up then remove the locking pin or u shape piece to release it and wow it comes off

you could of snapped the bumper pins. if the front bumper looks out of shape lift up if it does lift up and go back down the pins have snaped. you will need to replace the pins and maby the plastick holders.

Be suer the the slot pins are in line. or you are tightening it to tight this will cause the knob to not turn. The othe thing is the knob you have is not lining up with the latch slots.

The locks are tricky, they have special tools to make it easier, I'm not saying you can't do it, but if you can't get the knob apart, I don't know if you can get the pins in the tumbler right. Usually a pin hole in the side of the knob will release the keyset, then the ring in the back will release the tumbler, the cap on the top will release the pins, and I mean release, hang on to them, cause they fly! Put the tumbler back in without the pins, put the new key in, make sure it is right, drop the pins in one at a time, first the bottoms, they should all be the same size, then the tops will be according to the cut in the key. Or is it the other way around, drop in the springs, put the cover on, if it works the first time, you will be very lucky. Hope this helps.

Two ways.. either put the new spool pin in the other extra hole to the left of the trap door on top OR take out the two bigger screws on the top cover that hold it in, also take off the knobs on the front sliders (patters selection) and remove the top over. Push the old pin out from the inside with nail or something simila and replace.. simple. Do you have an extra spool pin you can share?

The right hand shaft knob contains the coarse focus locking clutch adjustment mechanisim( big name-simple design). This solution applies if you have the model with the fine adjustment wheel mounted in the base and may or may not apply if your fine focus is in the left-hand knob.

Inside the right hand knob ( as viewed from the rear of the scope) is a threaded disk/nut which has two pins (Slightly and for reasons I don't understand: they are offset vertically, they have different pin diameters and different pin lengths) In theory, they lock into the bushing within the knob proper to keep tension on the clutches while keeping the knob from falling off.

The repair can proceed in two ways depending on if the disk/nut has totally been unscrewed from the focus shaft.

Gently pull the left knob and as you do turn it slowly to see if the pins reseat. If they do you'll feel a slight lurch outward of the knob. Hold gentle outward tension( so as the pins remain seated) as you turn the knob clockwise until the slippage in the clutches is so lessened that your knob is firm and the focus adjustment is operating to your liking.

IF that didn't work it is likely that the threaded disk/nut has come off the shaft and will need to be reset and screwed back down. The disk is easily cross threaded and you'll need tweasers or micro plyers or a hemostat and/or a flat headed finishing nail. Plus I recommend a small bottle of LOC-TITE(tm) semi-solid thread sealer--NOT the kind that freezes the threads

As you unscrew the knob counter clockwise pull on the knob to slid it off the shaft it should come off in your hand revealing about 6-8 washers on the shaft. These are the clutches so be careful not to loose them.

The knob should have a slight rattle and that is the disk nut. To get to the disk/nut put a small finishing nail head first into the shaft whole and push to release the plastic knob insert cover out being careful to not loose the disk/nut.

To clean the threads and insure an easier repair screw the disk onto the focus shaft to insure the threads are clean.

This next part works better with the scope lying on its left side.

This part is optional but not necessary to get the scope back in operation. Place a tiny amount of LOC-TITE thread sealer on the shaft threads. This will make the knob clutch adjustment more stiff but will also reduce the likelihood that the knob will be adjusted out too far again. The loosening occurs when the knob is turned before the operator realizes the pinion gear limit has been reached or by someone who dosen't understand correct opperation of the focusing assembly.. So long as the clutches are engaged the and there is no slack in tension the disk/nut shouldn't come off the shaft again.

Observe the pins in the disk/nut and match them up with the holes in the aluminium/brass knob bushing. You'll have to wiggle the disk around to get it reseated properly. Once you do, hold the disk firmly against the bushing to keep the pins seated as you put the knob back over the shaft, pushing it all the way down against the shaft.(The clutches are springy so don't worry about it locking in place just now).

You may prefer to hold the disk/nut and knob firmly with a finger and spin the left hand knob counter-closkwise for easier threading of the nut but remember this will also move the focus arm. Not a problem if you start with the focus in the range centered.

If using the right knob: Turn the knob clockwise feeling for the threaded shaft maiting back up with the threads. IF it cross-threads, back it off try again. Once the threads are engaged keep the outward tension on the knob so the pins don't slip out. When you/ve screwed it down far enough, the clutches will take up the slack and keep the knob from slipping away from the disk/nut. You'll know the clutches are engaged when the focus shaft turns.

If you are happy with the repair slip the knob cover back on and snap in place. It if falls out place a little of the thread sealer on the rim and try again.

If you like this solution it took me an hour to write it up. Please consider volunteering an hour with a local non profit. I support the American Red Cross, Habitat for Humanity and the USO.
Regards

you have two different knobs to replace?..is it the water level knob or the timer knob?
if its the timer knob you need to remove, look underneath the timer and you will find a black plastic pin depressed at the middle. pull it slowly for about 1/4 of an inch.

then you can remove the knob in the front of the timer switch.

in putting it back, install the knob first in the timer and then depressed that black plastic pin to lock the knob.

be carefull not to pull the plastic pin all the way out. it would be very hard to put it back in.


cheers,

drcool

Knob should have a small plastic cover in the middle that just pops off. From there you will see a nut or pin holding it in-place. Why are you replacing the timmer? (Timmer is a VERY last resort when working with washers) I'll check back later around 5pm