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Anonymous Posted on Jun 24, 2014

Why is receiver turning off

The receiver protection mechanism is kicking in when viewing movies, but ok when watching normal TV. Also kicks in and shuts down the receiver when setting the surround sound levels.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3130 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 04, 2006

SOURCE: no surround sound

So your saying that you have no rear channel. Some recivers use a single stereo output ic for both sides on the rear speakers. you could have a defect with this IC . Anther thing Im sure you check3ed the obvious ie : the switch is on suround sound? If there is a front to rear fader is it in the middle? Good Luck

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Anonymous

  • 752 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 15, 2007

SOURCE: Onkyo TX-DS474 Receiver shuts down after Standby mode.

It's going into a protect mode. The amp is probably shorted out. Disconnect the spkrs and turn it on. If it still shuts off, it's the amp, if not, it's the spkrs.

petraman7

Scott Frye

  • 1175 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2009

SOURCE: blinking standby button

Hi...1st off ...make sure all the speakers are connected at both ends.
2nd..buy a new cat..one that doesnt drool.
If it's still stays in Stdby after checking speakers, It might have blown an internal fuse cause thats where those darn stereo people put them now.

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on May 03, 2009

SOURCE: I HAVE AN ONKYO TX

The symptom you described can be caused by any number of things. I always start with the output power transistors which are the first things to blow with a speaker output overload condition. Unplug the power cord to your unit, remove the top cover and use an ohmmeter to check resistance from C to E on all 10 of the power transistors (Q6050 thru 54 and Q6060 thru 64) attached to the large heat sink. Blown transistors typically read <1 ohm, compared to good transistors that are >10k ohms. If you find a bad transistor it will need to be replaced.

dennis

  • 79 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 06, 2009

SOURCE: TX-DS838 shows protect and then shuts down

yes , Im afraid you have a chip gone , If you open the unit up you'll see a alloy heatsink with 4 to 8 large chips screwed to it , These are the amp drivers , In between these chips you see a smaller one (that is the protect chip),You see when things get a little hot this chip is designed to break sooner that the more expensive main amp chips , In the past ive unsoldered these and still found the amp driver bust too ,dont worry though , maplins or even farnell(cpc) on the web will supply these for less than a tenner..If you wanna test my fix then just unsolder the littlest chip on the main heatsink and it should start to work again but with NO protection(unplug it first before taking it to bits)

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I'm not familiar with your unit. However, this is normal, since the "sub" is encoded separately in movies. I have a separate sub for my front speakers. Or if you know what you're doing you can redirect the front signal to your sub by using a switcher when you're listening to cds, then switch back to surround when watching movies. But again, you have to be experienced in the principle of A/V configuration.
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In theory once you have run the Audyssey auto-setup with the included mic the proper reference level for watching movies will be 82 if the volume number scale is set absolute or 0dB of it is set to THX relative. At this setting the volume should be the same as watching that movie at the theater. I have mine set to power-on at a level of -30dB which corresponds to level 52 on the scale you have it set to. This is a comfortable lowish level, but I turn it up to at least -10dB AKA 72 when watching movies.
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Sounds like a possible power short, especially if you have speaker cables connected to the receiver but not to speakers -- leaving the ends more likely to short (even via a single thin copper strand across a millimeter or two, when the voltage peaks). The receiver's message says "Check Spkr Cables," right? (They do mean the Speaker Cables!) Most receivers have a built-in power overload detection/protection shut-off circuit to save you from such mistakes.
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There is some leakage of DC voltage getting to the output section. DC voltage will cause the protection circuit to kick in and shut down the amp. This should be a relatively simple repair and cost about $15-$30 in parts plus the local labor rate.
Dan
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