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Use a Tester and Identifie each wire end to end then Put color tape to help to identified the ignition goes to Solenoid then solenoid to starter then Starter to battery Check Diode Proterction betwen solenoid and inition Fuse CAUTION FOR HAIR BAG FUSE PROTECTION may Cause Serious injury ...Good Luck
I have been restoring cars for years and in my opinion the absolute best/easiest way is to buy a new harness kit from "Painless Wiring" it will include a complete harness and fuseblock, the wires are all labeled so there really isn't any guesswork.
Is your battery up to the task? fully charged? Ignition switch is in good condition? Are you properly lined up with the fly wheel? Have the correct gear on your starter?
Just a few things I would check up front.
Will the starter run if you take it off and put it on the floor? (Remember, you need two wires to make it run off the mower.)
One problem that i can think of off the top of my head is that the magnets under the flywheel are in direct contact with the stator under the flywheel, which if that be the case, both would need to be replaced
Hi..my name is Keith..and i have 9 ford tractors..i have 9N's..2N's and 8N's..and i have converted one or two of them over to 12V..and i use the solonid that has only 1 side post...and thats what my original starter swich connects to and on the big terminal i have the battery wire and a 12 gauge wire that i run to the amp meter....i hope this helps..and if you have any questions..please write back
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